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Setting Up Front Wheels


Guest Jonnyround2003

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In my area i found it very difficult to get set up coorrectly, most new electronic system requires make/model etc. and Zero is not listed. Occassionally the odd system has caterham, there are a few race or rally people but not found one with experience on our cars.

any ideas for figures with Zero geometry?

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Guest mower man

Ok this is for a basic setup on virtualy any seven type vehicle and there are things to do in order or you will never get it right!

1 you need to be on level hard standing no drop either back to front or side ways

2 first set ride height ! slightly higher at the back than the front 1/2 inch difference is enough this is called rake

3 set camber between 1 and 1.5 degrees negative [ top of wheel in [ and equal each side ] important!

4 set caster ,I ran my s7 at around 6/7 degs positive to much will give heavy steering and heavy self centering not enough will not allow self centering

5 when you have got this far you are wining !!

6 track as close to 0 as possible ,a fraction of toe in is ok but NO toe out

7 if rear is adjustable 1/1.5degs of neg camber and again a little toe in is ok and equal is im

8 Obviously tyre pressures should be at correct settings 18 to 20 psi seems to be very common!

 

If you have to jack the car to make adjustments the suspension MUST be settled afterwards !! bounce the car up and down and roll backwards and forwards

I ran my s7 at these settings for 12 years ,suffered no nasty tyre wear or bad handling more wear on rear than front but it was equal was equal across the tyre

Suspension tuning can be taxing to say the least , write all settings down ,adjust both sides equaly !

 

I hope this is clear enough and helps if not get in touch idealy this should be done with the aid of a 4 corner laser set up but string,a spirit level and patience can help greatly

 

Mick :crazy: :acute:

Edited by mower man
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In my area i found it very difficult to get set up coorrectly, most new electronic system requires make/model etc. and Zero is not listed. Occassionally the odd system has caterham, there are a few race or rally people but not found one with experience on our cars.

any ideas for figures with Zero geometry?

Mark. I have been to see proComp in erdington. They set up race cars/ 750 club stuf and the price to Dyno the shocks, corner weight and set up as good a possible with what's already on the car was very reasonable. I have to stay and help for the whole day but seems educational too.

 

Will let you know how I get on.

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Guest mower man

Ok this is for a basic setup on virtualy any seven type vehicle and there are things to do in order or you will never get it right!

1 you need to be on level hard standing no drop either back to front or side ways

2 first set ride height ! slightly higher at the back than the front 1/2 inch difference is enough this is called rake

3 set camber between 1 and 1.5 degrees negative [ top of wheel in [ and equal each side ] important!

4 set caster ,I ran my s7 at around 6/7 degs positive to much will give heavy steering and heavy self centering not enough will not allow self centering

5 when you have got this far you are wining !!

6 track as close to 0 as possible ,a fraction of toe in is ok but NO toe out

7 if rear is adjustable 1/1.5degs of neg camber and again a little toe in is ok and equal is im

8 Obviously tyre pressures should be at correct settings 18 to 20 psi seems to be very common!

 

If you have to jack the car to make adjustments the suspension MUST be settled afterwards !! bounce the car up and down and roll backwards and forwards

I ran my s7 at these settings for 12 years ,suffered no nasty tyre wear or bad handling more wear on rear than front but it was equal was equal across the tyre

Suspension tuning can be taxing to say the least , write all settings down ,adjust both sides equaly !

 

I hope this is clear enough and helps if not get in touch idealy this should be done with the aid of a 4 corner laser set up but string,a spirit level and patience can help greatly

 

Mick :crazy: :acute:

Addition to above ONLY DO 1 ADJUSTMENT AT a time and record all figs check and recheck all adjustments and fixings ,if it falls to bits its not just your life but its your bloody fault!!! :acute:

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Guest chris brown

Item 3, Mick says it is important thay are equal, this is not possible but get it as near as you can the problem is adjustment is made by full turns of the top ball joint and each turn equates to about 1/4 degree. So just get them as near as you can.

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Guest 2b cruising

Before adjusting tow in, remove track rod ends from steering arms, centralise steering rack, bring wheels to straight ahead possision then adjust ball joints to fit back into arms.

This is a rough set up to make sure steering is central before you begin.

I have in the past found cars where someone has spent hours setting it up only to find they have much more lock one way than the other.

Another often ignored point is to move your car backwards or forwards through one full wheel rotation after each adjustment. This takes out any strain brought about by your tyres gripping the floor and remaking under tension on the ball joints.

If you are using suitable floor plates, this can be ignored.

Also do not jack up your car to adjust the ball joints. If you do, carry out the same rotation of wheels before rechecking adjustment.

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