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Pinto Engine Numbers


Guest DAVE1954

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Guest DAVE1954

Hi I'm about to replace my 1.6 pinto for 2.0 pinto, I know it's a 2.0 stamped on side, I know the year from engine number 1983 but I was wondering what the id number on engine to gearbox fixing which is NA, maybe this denotes what model vehicle it came out of . Cheers. Dave

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Guest DAVE1954

Hi cheers for reply, since I've asked the question, I found that it is Taunus 2.0 pinto,and it's low compression, will I find a big difference compared to the1.6 I've got bike carbs on 1.6 at moment, which I'm putting on this 2.0. Bottom line is it worth doing, I just want easy engine change,and stick with pinto. Thanks. Dave

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Guest lotusPaul

Basically your Na block was an export low comp engine. Rough real world outputs would be 80bhp/100 torque from the book but I'd be honest and take 10 off each minimum as an honest start value.

So a fresh motor id say 70/90. And yes it's 8.2 but high comps are only a point or do more so don't get carried away.

 

So to bring to a good spec you can skim the head and do a home port and polish job. By that I mean mirror polish the exhaust but satin polish the intake,it allows for a better atomization. Yes your 1600 head is fine but will be limited. Also a 60thou skim or thinner gasket or a very carefully selected combination of both. Be warned to check piston to valve clearances tho.

 

Personally i think the 285 cams are too much for a road engine as the lengthy duration can loose torque and you don't have much in the first place. So look at a standard injection can, new off course or one around 268/270 degrees and 110 on valve timing. This will also take into consideration your 1600 head and give less lift,helping to keep piston and valves apart.

 

Exhaust, well you can spend shed loads on this. I'll assume you got a four branch, to be honest a large straw will flow better than the standard cast iron effort.

 

Ignition and ignition timing is absolute paramount on a pinto. I'm a massive fan of Aldon and there ignitor 2 system but I'm sure there are many others that can do a great job, including strangely the Ford standard electronic offering.

 

If your happy with your bike carb setup then keep it but again you can port match the openings to aid flow. If your not comfortable doing it then leave it.

 

A propper vernier can timing wheel is a great investment as well as a new oil spray bar..PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE THIS OUT. Yes I say that because it's pennies and does need replacing or potential you will kill your top end. Not worth wasting a motor for the sake of £20. Also change the oil.halfords classic 20/50 is in my lotus twin cam and I only use it. Nuff said on that.

 

With all that done and setup on a rolling road I'd be surprised if you didn't see an honest 120bhp ( I hate quoting bhp) but you will have an honest and true output. Considering I think you would start with

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Guest IanSouthLincs

As far as I'm aware it's only the pistons that make it low compression, you could quite happily stick a set of high compression ones in there, or do as lotusPaul suggests and use a set of V6 pistons with Cossie rods and rebore to 93mm to give a 2.1.

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Guest lotusPaul

I had a fat finger moment. Sorry.

 

I was saying considering a start of even the factory output,my proposed 120 is a 50% increase but for this you may have to fit NOS piston and rings.

 

Many times I've said pintos ohcs are still good work horses but we have to be realistic. A high rpm motor will give 170plus but needs cash.

 

I'm sugesting a low rpm,high torque motor that can pull in 5th gear from near standstill all way to a 6k red line. Reliable everyday power.

 

Regards and very merry xmas

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