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Speed Humps Dont You Just Love Them!


geordie40

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I would recommend fitting a remote oil filter. I have one on my Superspec and it removes yet another Superspec problem with the sump/ground clearance. Alternatively fit a 'short' filter so that the bottom is above the sump level.

 

Also many of us have fitted a sump guard and again that has worked well for me. It was one of the first things I did, see http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-sump-guard.html

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Graeme,

 

I'm plagued with cushion type speed humps where I live. The sump clearance on my Superspec is only about 5cm so I was finding the humps too high to straddle and I was forever rubbing over them. Once I even got beached on top and had to get out the car to push it over! I now find the best way is to run one wheel over a hump and put the other in the gap between. That's when I remember!

 

To protect my alloy sump I've fitted a shorter oil filter which doesn't go lower than the sump, and also built a sump guard out of alloy treadplate. It's more sacrificial than resistant but 2 years on it seems to be providing good protection. I'm now not so worried about grounding the bottom of the car.

post-13848-0-08589500-1528710716_thumb.jpg

 

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Funny thing is I do have a sump guard but it was in the boot at the time. I had only refitted it a couple of days ago but obviously hadn't tightened it up enough because during the trip across Exmoor it had worked loose and one of the other drivers pointed out I had "something flapping" under the car so I stopped and took it off (didn't have the bolts to refit) note to self "carry more bits n bobs"

 

The old filter did stick below the sump and I have a shorter one to fit, was on my to do list.

 

On a side note ive read a couple of old posts about Super Spec sump and the difference in depth, as my engine was destined for a 420 it should have the shallower sump but there was another post about the engines being destined for abroad so they had the deeper sumps, what depth are your Alan/Andy.

 

P.s like your sump gaurd Andy may redesign mine using treadplate .

 

P.P.S This particular speed hump is known about by locals because every car that stopped to ask if we were ok said I suppose you hit the speed hump.

I went over 1st one ok but the 2nd one was in shadow and not well marked and the wheels straddled it which meant the sump didn't.

Edited by geordie40
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Mines the alloy sump, about 12cm deep. I think the steel sumps are deeper.

 

Which has now confused me!! From previous digging around I understood that alloy sumps were fitted to Rover 420 and 620, and steel sumps to 220 and 820. My engine number indicates it was for an 820 but its got an alloy sump, which doesnt tie?! Maybe my original builder changed the sump.

 

Btw the alloy sumps have larger bolts and are thicker, as some had engine mounts fitted to them.

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The alloy sumps are about 7mm thick so luckily they will survive a bit of abrasion. Mines actually got a hairline crack in it but it doesn't seem to leak so I'm leaving it alone. Oil filters though are only thin steel and vulnerable as you've found out, so it's worth fitting a short one.

 

I'm using a Crosland L10288PS filter (Eurocarparts p/n 501750018)

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Well it was just the filter after all, after a good clean up and thorough check all is well, smaller filter fitted which now sits about level or maybe a smidge higher than the bottom of sump. I have a little over 3 inches ground clearance now.

 

Car is not going ANYWHERE till I get a new sump guard sorted!!

post-14299-0-83763200-1528824522_thumb.jpg

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Graeme,

 

Yes the support wings at the rear of the guard are fixed on each side to the lower side chassis tubes using large hex head self-tap screws (2 each side). I was a bit worried they would break or work loose when the sump guard took an impact, but they seem to be holding so far.

 

The front of the guard extends under the oil filter then bends upwards to the nearest suspension square tube cross-member, where it is bolted on with 2 rubber bobbins to give it some flexibility. The rear of the guard isn't fixed but just has a bend upwards to protect the bellhousing / engine joining plate. So effectively the guard is fixed to the chassis and the engine is able to move over the top of it. That's different to some other people's sump guards where they have fixed the guard to bolt holes on the sump / block itself.

 

Also there's about a 3mm gap between my sump guard and the bottom of the sump with some neoprene strips stuck on to stop stones getting between and also dampen any resonance.

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Thanks andy for the info, my old one was secured on front cross member and the side of the sump. Your sounds a better idea, how are the support wings attached to the guard, rivets or bolts?

 

I ve just got my self a rivnut gun so going to try out on the guard build!!

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