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Welding Stainless Steel


AndyW

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I've discovered that the front engine mounting plate on my Superspec chassis has a large crack. It's a large 3mm stainless steel triangular plate welded onto the front stainless chassis tube. The crack needs welding closed and I'd like to get a reinforcing plate welded on top, as it looks like a repair has been attempted before by previous owner that's now failed.

 

I've asked at a few local places that do body and car repairs and light engineering, but no-one is interested. They say they don't/won't/can't weld stainless steel.

 

So what sort of place should I be looking for that is willing and able to weld stainless steel? Anyone know anywhere in the Bedfordshire area? I'd prefer a mobile service as I think I'm going to have to remove the radiator for access which makes driving anywhere difficult.

 

Andy

 

 

post-13848-0-42374600-1510398465_thumb.jpg

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Welds exactly the same as mild steel, but with a different wire (and maybe different gas, not sure)... so quite why everyone is telling you that I don't know. Probably they just can't be bothered with a job that might come back on them if it fails again. I'll let the IWP (Internet Weld Police) comment on the quality of that previous repair!

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That "weld" is just material laid on top of the crack, doing no good at all. Have welded s/steel on Florin ( diff mounting ) & so far so good as not a trained welder. If you have mig equipment have a go --- s/steel wire & argon gas does the job. May not end up pretty but if you get more penetration than the last guy it will be a whole lot better, an extra piece of stainless welded over the top would make it belt & braces.

 

Have loads of s/steel off-cuts in stock, shout if required.

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Guest kevin booth

Cut the old plate off and replace with new steel. Each time you weld stainless you cause the other side of metal to oxidise, this is why it should be back purged. This is why the repair has failed

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Hi Andy just sent you email photo of mine you thought yours was bad told Alan about this problem i had to jack car up to close the gap and made another bracket fitted over top of original and welded

Hi Ivan. Got your photo thanks. Interesting that your bracket split on the vertical part of the plate below the cross tube, whereas mine is going on the horizontal bit before it wraps round the tube. The plate is obviously not strong enough to take the loads, or else the two horizontal and vertical mounting bolts on the engine mount are not well aligned and put the bracket under strain. My bracket has been bent to fit. Did you make your extra bracket out of stainless?

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If you have mig equipment have a go --- s/steel wire & argon gas does the job.

Bob unfortunately I cant weld and have no equipment, so doing it myself is out the question. I need someone with the skill and equipment to do it for me.

Edited by AndyW
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Cut the old plate off and replace with new steel. Each time you weld stainless you cause the other side of metal to oxidise, this is why it should be back purged. This is why the repair has failed

Hi Kev, yes it does look bodged even to my inexpert eye and not surprising it failed. Im quite willing to cut the old L shaped bracket off completely, and I could get some stainless to make a new one, but I will still need someone to weld it on for me.

Edited by AndyW
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I found a chap who did stainless weld repairs on excavators but also had small enough gear to weld repair my monocoque 3A. He was the only person locally who was interested in the work so if you've got someone like that near you they may help out. I had to fabricate the reinforcing plates and he came round to the house to do the job.

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Stainless steel can be welded either by TIG or MIG if using MIG (more common) you need to use stainless steel wire not copper coated mild steel and use either Argon or Argoshield (Argon/CO2 mix) gas. I welded lots of stainless on my Stainless S7 Monocoque body

Edited by Pintogogo
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I welded my exhuast manifold and entire exhaust in stainless with my Mig with stainless wire and Argon. As mentioned you should really use co2/Ar between 3-5% Ar. This is hard to find in disposable bottles so i used pure argon. I am certainly not a pro welder but i get significantly better welds than pictured with decent penetration.

Haven't had an issue with corrosion. Welds aren't shiny but certainly not rusting or anything.

 

From my limited knowledge a weld sitting proud like that likely needs more heat i.e. higher power setting.

 

Hope you get it sorted.

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Does any body know what MIG stainless welding wire would be best for doing cracks on a monocoque hood e.g. 308LSI or 316LSI. Does it depend on the quality of the stainless steel that is to be welded? I have a couple of cracks that I want to have a go at.

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