Cosworth Dry Sump - Hmmm

[Guest scottie686]

Morning Chaps!! (and chapesses!)

 

I have a query that I’m hoping someone can assist…………………Longboarder!!! hehe!!

 

I’m currently re-building my brothers 3a and we’re installing a Cosworth YB and turbo. Due to clearance issues (an inch between road and sump!!) we’ve purchased a Pace dry sump on eBay. I’ve had to send the pump itself to Pace for them to check the pump is all ok and confirm which are the pressure lines etc.

 

My query is this. Pace are advising the oil tank is mounted in the back of the car. An oil line runs from this to the pump. Another oil line then runs from the pump into the block. The pump also sucks the oil out of the sump using two lines mounted at the front and back of the oil pan and sends it back to the oil tank. Pace say that I need to get a remote oil filter adaptor and the oil line from the pump connects to the inlet on the remote adaptor holding the oil filter and then a line from this then runs to the second part of the adaptor that screws on to the original oil filter mount. Therefore, the existing oil pick in the original sump is not used.

 

But, the adaptor that screws onto the original oil filter mount has both an inlet and outlet also. Do I need to effectively block the outlet on this adaptor as the feed to the filter is coming directly from the new Pace pump and tank rather than up the existing pick-up using the standard oil pump and through the oil filter? Or, do I need to run a line from this outlet and install a ‘T’ piece in the line after the filter and to the adaptor on the block?

 

Finally, there is a blanked off threaded inlet on the sump, can I use this and connect the drain down line from the turbo?

 

I look forward to your comments.

 

Scott

[Guest mower man]

The orig pump driven by the jack shaft should act as scavange pump and pump oil via a remote filter to the tank theextra pump will feed pressurised oil into themain feed gallery and lube the engine this all takes place via the filter capping plate on the block I think thats how it works. Unless the orig pump is not used and the extra pump has two stages i.e. scavenge and pressure waiting for incoming mower man

[Guest scottie686]

The orig pump driven by the jack shaft should act as scavange pump and pump oil via a remote filter to the tank theextra pump will feed pressurised oil into themain feed gallery and lube the engine this all takes place via the filter capping plate on the block I think thats how it works. Unless the orig pump is not used and the extra pump has two stages i.e. scavenge and pressure waiting for incoming mower man

 

The pump is a 2 stage pump. So will pump pressurised oil from the tank to the oil filter ton mounted on the remote filter adaptor and will also scavenge from the two take off points at the front and back of the oil pan. My understanding is the oil will just naturally drain through the existing galleries back into the sump pan. Pace say I can either keep or remove the existing oil pump as it is not needed, but will not affect anything by keeping it there as the work is being done by the new Pace pump.

 

I just needed clarification that if I fit a remote oil filter adaptor and utilise the inlet which feeds the block pressured oil in the same way as it does that the moment (I.e. The centre section the oil filter screws onto), but not from the existing pick up, and therefore means the existing pick up is redundant, is it ok for me to block the outlet on the adaptor that connects to the block where the oil would have come from, and which has now been replaced by the new feed from the tank and new pump?! Blimey! That was a mouthful!

[Longboarder]

You say two stage pump. You also say two suction points to drain the sump. Because one pump will suck the easiest of the two pipes, ie the one pulling air I hope you have in fact got a three stage pump. Each of the sump drains should have its own scavenge pump which makes two of them plus you have a pressure pump to feed the block. That makes three pumps/stages.

 

The oil pressure pump in the block is redundant so remove its pickup pipe and its drive. The out pipe on the remote filter take-off is also redundant so should be blocked. The return in the remote filter takeoff is where you will pipe the pressure return from your remote filter. If you want an oil cooler then fit combined thermostat/remote filter housing but standard remote take-off plate on the block.

 

I think.

 

Nigel

[Guest scottie686]

You say two stage pump. You also say two suction points to drain the sump. Because one pump will suck the easiest of the two pipes, ie the one pulling air I hope you have in fact got a three stage pump. Each of the sump drains should have its own scavenge pump which makes two of them plus you have a pressure pump to feed the block. That makes three pumps/stages.

 

The oil pressure pump in the block is redundant so remove its pickup pipe and its drive. The out pipe on the remote filter take-off is also redundant so should be blocked. The return in the remote filter takeoff is where you will pipe the pressure return from your remote filter. If you want an oil cooler then fit combined thermostat/remote filter housing but standard remote take-off plate on the block.

 

I think.

 

Nigel

 

Nigel,

 

You are correct. In fact i think its a 4 stage pump. On the pressure inlet there are two outlets. One i assume will connect to the inlet on the remote filter adaptor but the second i can only assume went to something else on the previous set-up. Again i assume its ok to block this one as i only need the one feed? or shall i just 't'-piece it into the line thats going to the filter to the filter? There are two scavenge pipes at the front and back of the sump pan as you highlighted with a single return to the tank. Each scavenge and each pressure feed has its own section and pump within the large pump housing.

 

The blanked off inlet/outlet on the side of the sump pan, can i use this as the drain point for the turbo? The oil feed for the turbo is on the side of the block and uses the 't'-piece with the oil pressure switch and a braided line with a banjo connections screws into the top of the turbo. Another line comes out the bottom of the turbo and originally went into the side of the sump.

 

Finally, as the standard redundant oil pump is all part of the dizzy assembly drive, and the fact i'm converting to coil packs, can this whole dizzy be removed and the vacant hole blocked? or do i need to keep it for some cold start process (which i over heard someone saying!!).

 

Regards,

 

Scott

[Guest mower man]

If you mean a distributor less system ie mega jolt etc you can dump the jack shaft driven std pump but the shaft must stay mower man

[Guest scottie686]

If you mean a distributor less system ie mega jolt etc you can dump the jack shaft driven std pump but the shaft must stay mower man

 

Can i ask, if i'm able to dump the original oil pump, and the dizzy is being replaced by coilpacks and therefore will be redundant, why must the shaft remain?

 

Scott

[Guest mower man]

Can i ask, if i'm able to dump the original oil pump, and the dizzy is being replaced by coilpacks and therefore will be redundant, why must the shaft remain?

 

Scott

Because the cam belt runs around it,so unless you have a custom made cam belt system made up andblock up the oil feeds to lube the jack shaft ,and a blanking plate for the hole in the front of the block it has to stay ok mower man

[Guest scottie686]

Ahh I see! Sorry, thought u meant the dizzy could go I.e cap, rotor arm etc but the actual shaft that slides into the block with the gear on the end had to stay!!

 

I will be using the existing pulley and the cam belt will go round as normal. The dry sump pump belt also uses this pulley. So this will remain, along with the shaft you mentioned and I'll just do away with the dizzy unit and blank the hole.

 

Many thanks

 

Scott

[Snapperpaul]

Dry dumps usually drive off a smaller toothed drive off the crank as I remember

[Guest scottie686]

Dry dumps usually drive off a smaller toothed drive off the crank as I remember

 

This is correct. The smaller toothed pulley mounts onto the front of, in my case, the pulley for the oil pump and dizzy. I'll leave the pulley there but remove the pump and dizzy completely.

 

Scott