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Engine Making Ticking Noise


agent_zed

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Hi,

my old 1.6 pinto is making a ticky ticky ticky noise. Using a screwdriver for a hearing device it sounds like it is on the rear cylinder and is at the top.

 

i have checked the valve clearances (a fair while ago as its been doing it for a long time) and they were fine.

 

Would changing the followers help at all? I have some spares i could try. I can't really think why they would cause that if properly adjusted but i guess thats why i am asking :)

 

any thing else to try?

 

thanks

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Guest 2b cruising

Remove followers one by one and inspect for scrapes or wear marks on the sides.

If you are positive it is from the rear, remove a front one for reference when checking the rest.

Should all go back to same possition you took them from.

Only use second hand parts if actually nessasary. They all wear in different ways and don't all suit the wear of previouse followers.

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I would suspect it is the first sign of camshaft wear, if you change the suspect followers it may give temporary relief but it would soon return, But at least you would identify the problem. Then it is time for a new cam and followers, ideal time to put a 2ltr. cam in.(thats what I have and it makes a big difference)

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thanks guys.

 

will do a compression test first then and see what that shows. I know they should all be similar psi but what is a good reading? I've got a 2ltr camshaft in there so i don't know if that affects the reading as it has a slightly higher lift and duration.

 

I wondered about piston rings but i thought that was normally more tinkly than ticky (if that makes any sense).

 

She is in need of a new engine and general overhaul but unless Foose turns up to do it for me i don't have the time at the moment :( so i am just using her as is while the sun shines :)

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if it is valve clearances or cam wear, compression will be down on the effected cylinder, so it is not a good indicator for the rest of the engine.

 

First thing, check valve clearances, you may just have an adjuster that has come loose.

 

you can make further assessment after that.

Edited by knights_templar
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So engine was warm so will have to wait for clearances so instead i did a compression test (as i believe the engine should be warm for that). Held the throttle wide open and cranked about 15 times until it rose no more.

 

1 - 142

2 - 178

3-181

4- 182

 

 

Obviously number one is pretty down. I put some oil in and it rose 10 psi

 

Broken piston ring? or could it still be valves/clearance?

 

I reseated the valves when i had the head off last year so i think the seat should be fine.

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well i'll check the clearances tomorrow to be sure of that as well. Otherwise i guess the head will have to come off for a check. which isn't the worst thing in the world i guess. So much easier to work on than my bmw.

 

It's an unleaded head by the way so doubt the valve seat has gone.

 

thanks

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Guest 2b cruising

At least you are being sensible about it and doing things in the right order.

If it was piston rings, the comp should rise a lot more than 10 psi unless the full set had broken on one piston.

The oil is supposed to take its time squeezing past the rings lifting the compression.

A hole on the other hand just lets it fly through. ie bent, burnt out or unsealed valve or hole in piston.

I would still give your cam area a good going over before removing head though.

Could even be a sticking valve for some reason or other.

Good luck and may your problems be quick and easy to put right.

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always start cheap :)

 

interesting to know about the psi as i guessed an increase of 10 was a sign of broken rings. Glad to hear it doesn't necessarily show that.

 

I wonder how easy it is to see the valves through the plug hole. If it's a sticking valve is there anything i can do with the engine together. Can i spray a cleaner onto the valve through the plug hole? or something.

 

thanks

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Come to think of it my old pinto always had a slight ticking noise from the top end. Even when I had it re cond and new valve and cam. It always ran well.

I also had a ticking chirping noise once too. That ended up being a leak on the inlet manifold of the bike carbs

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Guest 2b cruising

Not really.

Does it appear to run smoothly?

If so I doubt the valve actually sticking.

You can watch this when the cam cover is removed.

Get someone to turn the engine over with the King lead removed from coil or cap if you study the valves on the poor cylinder you will soon see if one is sticking or not.

if you have toe move the head, remove the exhaust manifold first, turn the engine over and listen for a chuffing nois from the bad cylinder when it comes up on compression strike.

Don't mistake this for the actual exhaust stroke noise, that is totally different.

If there is no chuffing(more like a quick fart) it is less likely to be a valve.

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nah runs like crud at the moment but i figured that was the carb as sometimes it likes to tick over at 1500 and if i blip the throttle sometimes it drops down to 1000. Then in the afternoon when its time to go home it'll tick over at about 900 and search a bit.

 

I've got bike carbs ready to go on once i've finished the manifold. Can't be bothered to mess with the old weber any more.

 

might be worth spraying some wd40 around the manifold to ensure no air leaks, but i'm still well down on psi on that one cylinder so something must be happening there.

 

will check clearances tonight if i get the chance.

 

cheers

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