Robin Hood 3a Vs 2b Whats The Difference ?

[Guest Hunty]

Im looking at buying a pre built Robin hood,

Has to be pre built and registered due to funds and i dont have anywhere to currently buid one.

It will be my first kit car, will have to have wet weather gear as it will be my daily driver, although i can cycle or walk to work each day.

I have owned a few performance cars in the past, Lotus elise mk 1, bmw m3, etc etc,

 

I have seen a Robin Hood 3A for sale, with a 2.0 pinto fitted.

 

What is the difference between the 3A and the 2b kit ?

 

What are the main things i should be looking for when i buy one of these kits ?

 

Any help much appreciated,

My budget is a max of 3k.

Which seems to get me one at the mo, due to weather and time of year etc.

Any clubs or meets around the Abingdon, Oxford, Oxfordshire area ?

 

Thanks for any input !

Hopefully i will have a car very soon !

[philshelton]

at £3000 you may have to do a bit of tidying up.

[Guest Hunty]

I dont mind doing that,

I just cant do a full build at the moment due to time, storage and funds !

[philshelton]

if looking at a 2b try to get a front wishbone suspension one there is a list of models on here some where and that may be of some help

[richyb66]

Model identification here:

 

http://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm

[Guest Noddy006]

Hi Hunty

Whilst I don't have a 3a or 2b (have a sub K) I do live in the Abingdon area and you would be welcome to come and have a look/chat if it helps. If you pm your telephone no. I will ring to arrange. HTH Ian H

[Snapperpaul]

The main difference between the 3a and the 2b is that the 3a is a monocoque stainless steel shell with no chassis. The 2b is a thick tubular chassis much like a roll cage.

3a is lighter but can suffer from cracking, the 2b heavier but in my opinion much safer.

Join the club, have a look at the different models.

[Guest The Modfather]

I bought a pre built 3a, paid 3k for it, and already spent 1k on doing the jobs the previous builder/owners should have done! I was unaware of the stress problems with the stainless monocoque, but generally I think its good to drive, now that I've sorted out the camber problems. It has wishbones with inboard shocks that actually work in a reverse spring configuration. The spring is attached to the upper wishbone unlike the 2b which is on the bottom wishbone.

The 3a is narrower on the inside due to a wider trans tunnel, so beware when getting different seats, which is what I'm experiencing now!

 

3k won't get you a minter, but will get a driver that requires fettling. Good luck.

[Guest Alan_builder]

Hi Hunty

 

Welcom.

Please send me a pm with Telephone details.

 

We are meeting at the Fox and hounds in Sherfield Bottom near Reading on Sunday the 28th Feb. 12:45 for lunch or 14:15 for drinks and club chat, we are the Thames Valley. Chris Newlands is our Area sec and He would have posted here if I was not first. We are your local Area.

 

I hope the day will be fine so we have some good cars there for you to see. We can all talk you through the pit falls and some will offer to help you make a choice if you ask.

 

Alan

 

I my

[speedtripledan]

My only advice is don't rush into a purchase look and listen hard as there is a lot of difference in quality of builds, me like others bought pre built mine being "factory built" and i,ve spent a lot of money and time sorting it out, mainly because i knew nothing about RH'S at the time i bought. Learnt a lot in the 3 1/2 years i,ve had it