Wheel Stud Length

[Guest tom-zero]

hi guys

 

i was hoping someone could let me no if changing the wheel studs for longer ones is compulsory i have seen on a few blogs that people have changed them for longer ones

 

i assume it depends on what wheels you will be fitting i will probably be fitting the gbs ones if it makes a diffrence

 

thanks Tom

[SSSLINE]

Hi

The std ford ones are quite short, I've gone with 47mm studs for my Pro race 1.2 alloys which gives a good number a turns into the wheel nut, I didn't try with the std ones in the hubs as I changed them before the wheels arrived.

 

Best bet would be to try if they are long enough fine if not......

 

Cheers

Tony.R

[Guest tom-zero]

thanks for the response tony i prob wont be getting the wheels until nearer the end of the build im having to pay for things month by month lol and have loads i need before the wheels so will cross that bridge when it comes to it

 

thanks again Tom

[nicko]

Tom, My wheel studs were fine, but my donor had alloys as standard. I think it all depends what wheels you use, and if the donor had steels or not.

HTH

Nick

[Guest tom-zero]

yeah i was looking at your blog richard thats when i first realised i may need to change them lol, can they be changed with the hubs on the car or will i have to take them back off again ?

 

i see your still making good progress richard its looking good, hopefully be able to pop up again some time and say hi

[Guest tom-zero]

ive just messured the existing studs and with the disk on the hub there is still 24mm sticking out, could you do me a favour richard and next time you have a wheel off just messure the remaining stud length with the disk still on.

 

thanks Tom

[Guest tom-zero]

thanks very much mate looks like i wont need to replace them with a bit of luck

[Landie71]

Appreciate this is on old topic, but it's relevant to where I am at the moment so hope no-one minds me 'reopening' it.

 

I've just replaced the studs on the back of my Zero & I'm now turning the nuts approx. 10-11 times to seat the wheels to the hubs - is that enough for the IVA?

 

Also a couple of them won't pull all the way flush to the back of the hubs (1-2mm off). I've broken two trying to pull them in enough & has to knock the remaining bit out again & put another one it (fortunately I bought enough to do all four hubs, forgetting I'd already done the front ones as it's so long since I did them - should have checked my own build diary!). Is the studs not pulled flush up to the hubs an IVA fail? Naturally I'll try them again & once it's on the road keep checking them.

 

Thanks in advance

Marcus

[Landie71]

Brilliant - thanks Richard, appreciate it . Glad I haven't got to take them out again tbh - had a couple of 'interesting' moments as the car's only on a couple of workmates & there's not much friction to resist the 4lb lump hammer knocking the old ones out

[Guest 2b cruising]

Tom, when taking the rear studs out of drum brakes, just turn the hub first so that the stud you are removing is not going to hit anything behind it. ie cylinder, brake shoe.

You might have to fiddle a bit to get the longer ones in. Make sure all the faces meet when pulling them back in.

It could be the edge of the new stud catching on a slightly proud bit of the inner circumference of the hub.

If this happens, it is perfectly ok to grind a small edge off the stud stop. Just make sure this is then in line with the hub centre when fitting.

Use a impact gun to pull them in and the note changes quite drastically when they are right home.

It will of course depend on the wheel hub thickness as to how long your studs you should be.

 

Landis, as the relivant part above. Look down the back of the stud to see what is stopping them. They are designed to fit flush on the stops.

If you take one out that's not gone all the way in act accordingly with the grinder and take off a minimal amount of the shoulder.

Some have shaped shoulders that have to be aligned before pulling or punching them in.

Others are completely round shoulders that Mey not be absolutely suitable for your hubs. If this is the case, it's ok to remove the offending bit.

Edited June 14, 2015 by 2b cruising

[Landie71]

Thanks 2b cruising - I'll have a look at the studs I've got & see if I need to fettle them a bit to make them pull flush

[Guest chris brown]

Don't forget to check the wheel nuts after each run for the first few times (100 nm or 72 f lb) as some people have found the studs have settled. Someone on here lost a wheel off after fitting new studs and not checking torque of nuts after run.

[Landie71]

Wow - was planning on it, but that's a sobering reminder - wouldn't want that to happen

Thanks Chris

[cb750]

The studs need to sit flush or they may settle in use and slacken off the wheel nuts. I changed all of mine and never had a problem with the fit. I used a heavy duty ballpoint separator (the type that you bolt up) to get the front ones out and a vice to press the rears out and in while the hubs were off.

 

When you have got the studs out make sure that the rear of the holes is smooth or relieved and that you haven't dragged any metal out the back when removing the studs. You also need to watch how many times you remove the studs particularly if you are hammering them out as you can end up with holes that are too big. Oversize studs to cure this used to be available but I haven't seen any for a long time

[Landie71]

Looks like I'll be revisiting these then, thanks for the advice - don't want to stack up a problem for the future