Pinto Problem

[jaimo]

Sorted the air leak running better will sort more after stoneleigh so will be there even if on aa wagon lol

[Guest mcramsay]

Nothing wrong with a compressed fibre gasket! As long as it's not CAF!

[Guest mcramsay]

All up and running now?

[jaimo]

Sorted air leak using the dan st gasket plus injection gasket as both head and manifold are egg shaped just got to replace aux shaft seal as sprayed oil out and lubricated all engine bay and bike carbs need setting as fine when foot down but splutters at cruising/ low revs

Goes like clappers when foot down and no smoke so getting there

Edited May 15, 2017 by jaimo

[keith kelly]

Sorted air leak using the dan st gasket plus injection gasket as both head and manifold are egg shaped just got to replace aux shaft seal as sprayed oil out and lubricated all engine bay and bike carbs need setting as fine when foot down but splutters at cruising/ low revs

Goes like clappers when foot down and no smoke so getting there

idle screws need to be 2.5 turns out to start with, any less and will splutter at low revs. when foot down you will be using main jets which is why its fine.

Edited May 15, 2017 by unclechief

[jaimo]

I will give it ago keith had to drive to and from stoneleigh at 70mph in fourth if put in fifth just spluttered and jerked like bad misfire

[Guest lotusPaul]

Just for info and hope it helps.

 

My method of carb setting, works on many cars too.

 

Take off throttle linkage and unwind any screws so All butterflys close shut.

 

Close all idle bleed screws.

 

Get feelers set at 1mm or 40tho.

 

Using screws open each butterfly to feeler gauges.

 

Connect linkage back and recheck.

 

You have now set a base line of balanced butterfly openings with idle jets turned off.

 

Open idle bleed screws half a turn each untill you are comfortably able to start and idle.

 

Point to note, ignition must be set corectly and vacuum pipe disconnected if applicable.

 

When engine is idling carefully close idle screws a quarter of a turn. You are listening for that cylinder cutting out. At that point unscrew half turn. Job done.

Repeat on all cylinders.

 

Let engine go cold and restart. Should start with no choke and idle from cold.

If not open quater turn on all.

Repeat untill it idles smoothly. Reconect ignition vacuum.

 

Once happy you should be able to raise reves smoothly and without spluttering.

 

If you get spluttering when loud peddle is pressed but not when cruising it may be accelerator pump not correctly sized.

 

I use this method on carbs on many different engines inc mgbs rovers jags etc on su types too. I disconnect chokes as i personally dont like them. Takes a bit of practice but once you get the hang of it its easy.

[jaimo]

Thanks paul will have ago at it just wondering could it be anything to do with dizzy as that if electronic vac type with pipe just plugged

Edited May 15, 2017 by jaimo

[Guest lotusPaul]

Post pic please but if you have a vacum dizzy with electronic module its still a vacum type. That vac pipe must be connected to a changable vac source ie inlet manifold. If its not it will never change advance/retard angles. Not a good thing.

Edited May 15, 2017 by lotusPaul

[jaimo]

What pic u want paul can get when home

Yes still vac just pipe blocked with bolt there no where to connect on bike carb manifold

[Guest lotusPaul]

That may be your problem. If you dont advance ignition as revs rise your in danger of doing a lot of damage. Possibly swap vacum dizzy for a mechanical dizzy which will save you drilling the manifold.