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RHOCaR End of Season Bash 

Come and join us for our Annual event  on 14th to 16th September

Camping, Family Fun,  Evening Entertainment and like-minded Company

 

Full Details and entry form here:

http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=46637


 


Thrashed

Member Since 08 May 2007
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:21 PM
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#340801 Rolling Road

Posted by Thrashed on 28 July 2015 - 04:56 PM

Well, round 2 on the rollers after sorting out the fuel pump to a bigger pump to supply more fuel and changing to a accuspark dizzy as the original amplifier was giving a misfire.

All in all only an hour to get sorted and turned out 167bhp at the fly.

Not bad for an engine that's nearly as old as me!

Bring on The Wales trip.


#335133 Coventry Motofest 2014

Posted by Thrashed on 18 May 2015 - 02:05 PM

Hi Andi,

What day is everyone going? if Sunday can i still come along or have i left it too late?

Are you having a meet up and then going as a convoy, maybe a breakfast at Malt Shovel again?


#333347 Rolling Road

Posted by Thrashed on 30 April 2015 - 01:33 PM

Jcc rally on eBay do the higher flow facet for 26 quid! Would save you the hassle. Not much help now you have splashed out already though. On the plus side you'll be good for a few more horses if you ever upgrade


Yer, like you say its there to future proof it!


#333278 Breakfast Meet Up

Posted by Thrashed on 29 April 2015 - 10:41 PM

Hi all

Following the Midlands area meet tonight, a few of us are planning to meet at the malt shovel early for the all you can eat breakfast on Sunday before heading to Stoneleigh.

Breakfast starts at 8am! And then carry on as arranged by Richy.

See you bright and breezy.


#332465 Rolling Road

Posted by Thrashed on 23 April 2015 - 11:55 AM

167 on a pinto?
Mr T, what have you done to its internals

Andi


BISCA F2 bottom end, Injection head ported and polished, valve seats and FR32 cam and springs, Falpro head gasket and Vernier pulley. Standard ignition and ZX6r bike carbs, with jets now at 1.4.

Nothing major really, just seems like all the right parts have come together nicely!


#332422 Rolling Road

Posted by Thrashed on 23 April 2015 - 07:40 AM

Sorry. In all the excitement I knew the figures!

First run when it tried to jump out the rollers was 155bhp and 155 torque. 2nd run was 167bhp and 153 torque but the graph was showing a very obvious fuel drop at about 5500rpm. I run zX6r carbs and originally was 1.3 jet, drilled out to 1.4. Might need a bit more once new fuel pump is in and should get a few more bhp and torque. Will keep you posted


#319798 Accuspark Stealth Blacbox

Posted by Thrashed on 14 October 2014 - 09:52 PM

Thanks guys. Best news as means a very simply install


#284847 Midlands Area Run Out - 10Th/11Th August 2013

Posted by Thrashed on 18 July 2013 - 10:55 PM

That's a good point Andi. I have no idea how far my car goes on a tank of fuel! It has alway either broken down or had a fuel pipe come off first! This trip could be fun!!


#282691 Warwickshire/Worcester/West Midlands Meet at Malt Shovel

Posted by Thrashed on 25 June 2013 - 06:09 PM

Thanks for the support! Now I am going to have to drive even if it rains. Don't think I could handle the shame or ridicule again!

See ya all there


#264000 Curborough

Posted by Thrashed on 18 September 2012 - 07:57 PM

Gaz you are a star. You organised a great day. Loved every minute of not breaking down! Great bunch of guys and thanks for the help in fixing my long plaiging issue and mainly Rich for the loan of his rotor arm so i could get a few laps in. Might be able to drive more than 10 miles now!


#260732 Cuts Out

Posted by Thrashed on 29 July 2012 - 04:08 PM

Great news. Problem is fixed. Narrowed it down to the dizzy. Been for a couple of test drives totalling about 10 miles and all running well.

A big thanks for all the help, thoughts and guidance.

Steve


#260690 Cuts Out

Posted by Thrashed on 28 July 2012 - 10:57 PM

Update..

Well made some progress. Switched out the ignition amplifier with a good known working unit and not difference, so stuck mine back on. The swapped out the dizzy, again with a good known working unit and hay presto! It keeps running. Ended up leaving it running for 45-50minutes and only swapped when I turned it off. Fingers crossed its as simple as that, so going to try a little road test tomorrow and see how that does.

Can't see anything obviously wrong my dizzy, but seems to be the cure. I have no idea why it would run for 25 minutes and then stop?

Thanks for everyone's help. Might actually get to drive it before winter fully sets in!


#240348 Zero Suspension

Posted by Thrashed on 10 October 2011 - 10:51 AM

Hi all,
A while ago I read a good thread about suspension setting s for the Zero. Now I need it I cant find it! :pardon: I know someone had given a great explanation on here. If you're out there could you re-post please

Cheers


Hi Hammy

This is what Dinger did for me and it works OK. HTH

Hi Steve,

This is my third attempt at messageing you, lol, internat has crashed just before i fifnished writing it, so I'll try again,

Setting your car up will be individual as each car will be different but the below guide will help you get it somewhere close enough to drive,

Camber,
Camber on the zero is adjusted by way of turning the top ball joint on the wishbones, stupid design if you ask me as you need to strip the front down to do it,
you will need,
1, iphone
2, striaght edge long enough to cover the face of the wheel
3, patience
A small amount of negative camber is needed on the front wheels (top of wheel in further than the bottom)
with the wheels on the floor lay the straight adge vertically across the face of the wheel and put your iphone onto this, repeat on the opposite side to see if they are equal, This area is really guess work unless you have a camber gauge, The adjustment on the top ball joint wont give exact left to right as you need to do a full turn but its not bad, As long as they are close you will be ok, set it so the top of the wheel sits slightly in, if you look at it and think " *bleep*,, "thats alot of camber" just wind them back a bit, Once camber is set it wont change when you adjst toe,
Adjusting toe at home can be done easily but you must make sure you have the smae amount of left/right turn on the wheel,
Put some insulating tape at the top of the steering wheel and turning the steering left, count the amount of tutns the steering wheel has, compare this to the right, you shound have just over 1 and 1/4 turns each way, dont worry where you r wheels are pointing, once you have found the center point tape the top of the steering again and try and put the steering lock on in this position,
Now you probally have the wheels pointing to the left or right, dont worry as you can adjust this, Just by eye adjust the front track rods so the wheels look they are in line with the rears,
the noxt step you will need a ball of string and a staple gun,
Find the horozontal center line of the off side rear wheel and staple the string to the back of the tyre, make sure you staple into a good thick piece of tread and not the side wall, lol
now, with the string held tight you can take this to the front off side wheel following the center line and staple this onto the front of the tyre, once again, dont staple the side wall,

If you look along the string you may find you have a gap between the string and the back face of the front tyre, this shows you are toeing out, just adjust the track rod so the string touches the tyre, go back and forth and you will get the idea,
Basically you are using the string as a plumb line,

AM I making sense?
Do the same in the other side,,, there you go, tracking is set to neutral, have a drive at this point and see it it feels ok, you can then take the steering wheel off and place it at the center point,

You should now have equal turns left to right from center and wont scrub tyres, I have done 120 miles on this set up and it feels ok with no scrubbing,

As for the shocks, I have set my fronts at 10 clicks from soft (soft being fully wound out) and 15 click to the rear,

Ride height is up to you, to high in the platforms and the spring will be too compressed and wont work, Measure your ride hiegh from an equal point on the chassis front to rear, maybe just behind the nose cone on the front and just infont of the rear wheels arch on the rear, Also raise the rear 3 to 4 mm higher than the front, this will compensate for squat,

Hope that helps mate, and hope its understandable,

Dave