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Gbs Baffled Tank & Fuel Surge


brumster

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why isn't the filler and tank sender accessible through the boot area?

It's paneled off

edit: ie. carpeted, sealed... don't want to break the seals up and have to redo it all again, I'm out of carpet glue, etc. better to do the long-winded through the arch approach than create a mess ripping the back of the boot area apart ;)

Edited by brumster
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Intregued to know the outcome. Unlikely to ever be an issue for me as mechanical pump on a carbed pinto doesn't need the same type of supply but when i built my tank i bothered to weld in 2 baffle plates. I think the standard RH tanks at the time didn't have any baffles at all. My thinking though was along the lines of Knights_templar that the baffles were only there to stop fuel surge throwing weight from one side to another when changing course quickly.

 

I guess it would really depend on how big a hole there is in the baffle(s). They would need to be quite small to stop the fuel moving from compartment to compartment in a corner.

And

The question is if GBS designed the tank to stop the fuel sloshing for handling purposes or for anti-fuel starvation purposes. And additionally if the person selling you the tank understood the difference.

 

Hope the foam cures your problem though

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Aye. Someone made a point earlier (Zach) about the heat hazing you'd see on the edge of the tank where the internal baffles were welded into place. As far as I can tell from the bits visible, I can't see any at all. Also from what I can see with the borescope, along with how I've managed to stuff the foam along the tank, I strongly suspect these tanks are not baffled at all, despite what the Kitspares website might tell you :(

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Guest mcramsay

If the foam fails I recently upgraded the marlin fuel pump set up with great success, I scrapped the external swirl pot and low pressure pump for an in tank swirlpot and fuel pump with the total cost of the parts being just under £100.

 

Just bolts into the tank and off you go

 

 

2253_E124-738_F-4_CE2-_A052-_B487_CF734_

 

 

The top mount plate is from an mx5, plastic swirl pot is from a old rover V8. Fuel pump is a Kemso and was £30

 

Ive done around 100 miles now with no fuel starvation or running issues.

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Guest mcramsay

Just to clarify I bolted the swirl pot to the hanger with lengths of studbar and springs to let it sit flush on the bottom of the tank, so the height of the unit can be set up to suit your tank

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  • 1 month later...

Fuel surge issue resolved the usual way.... managed to wangle a small reservoir into the back left hand side, thanks to how I panelled off the side it gave me just enough room to squeeze it in. Then fitted a low-pressure pump along with the existing HP stuff behind the diff on a little bracket.

 

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It's not ideal but it's the only real pragmatic solution given where I find myself. If building from scratch I would now advise people to not bother with the GBS tank and just get a custom baffled one made (their website is plainly lying when it says the tank is baffled), or else a custom one that can take a combined fuel pump/swirl pot/sender unit like the Land Rover one.

 

In the end, to replace the tank would have just damaged the car too much and ruined the finish of the rear panel getting it out. So compromise prevails. But the main thing is, I can know exit roundabouts without spluttering and no power :)

 

At least I can now confirm, as many of you suggested, that in-tank foam cubes are pretty pointless... ah well, worth a try...

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Sorry, but IMHO

 

You now have approximately the system the Zero was designed for, except the swirl pot is in the boot, not the front of the car which would negate the need of pumping high pressure fuel to the front and back to the rear.

 

a baffled tank would not help, because baffles are designed to reduce fuel surge, not make a isolated reservoir for the high pressure pump feed.

 

The only way to produce an in tank swirl pot is to have a lowered section of tank as a reservoir, like the Zero race tank, which also has, issues.

 

or

 

to have an isolated area with a one way feed, fuel can flow from tank to area but not out again, or there is always a risk the reservoir could drain back into the tank.

 

the problem here is the fuel in the reservoir will only ever be as high as the fuel level in the tank. hence the lowered section of the tank to make the reservoir.

 

There is a standard tank with a lowered section, but it is small and hangs below the chassis, the race tank sits high, above the axle line and has a swirl pot that sticks out below over the diff.

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i had a two inch collar made out of ali then cut the LR pump down works a treat and only takes a couple of hours

i now you are getting frustrated with the problems you are having but the the system i have works and there are a few others that have it as well with no problems

Edited by tractor
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a baffled tank would not help, because baffles are designed to reduce fuel surge, not make a isolated reservoir for the high pressure pump feed.

I'm not sure you've followed the thread right!? Elliminate the fuel surge is exactly what I wanted, nothing more. I didn't *want* an isolated reservoir or swirl pot. It's just a means to an end.

 

The only way to produce an in tank swirl pot is to have a lowered section of tank as a reservoir, like the Zero race tank, which also has, issues.

Well, that's interesting I guess, when I chatted to GBS in person up at their factory Keith was specifically telling me about the race tank and telling me that's the one I wanted, which was what I thought I was buying at the front desk. I distinctly remember it because we were chatting about one in the collection area. But, whatever, if that has other issues as well anyway, then maybe I'm better off without it. It sounds to me like somewhere between talking to him, and paying at the counter, I got sold the wrong tank. Lack of comms and understanding of what I was seeing on the receipt, on my part.

 

to have an isolated area with a one way feed, fuel can flow from tank to area but not out again, or there is always a risk the reservoir could drain back into the tank.

 

the problem here is the fuel in the reservoir will only ever be as high as the fuel level in the tank. hence the lowered section of the tank to make the reservoir.

 

There is a standard tank with a lowered section, but it is small and hangs below the chassis, the race tank sits high, above the axle line and has a swirl pot that sticks out below over the diff.

Cool, ok. Well, never mind, sounds like the race tank capacity would just be another limiting factor there, so maybe I missed a bullet with that one anyway... :D ! So I won't feel so bad about it. Even then, my point being if I'd have known the facts better at the time of purchase, I could have made a better decision and just gone with a custom tank if the first place :). Essentially :

1) We have a standard tank which will require a separate reservoir or modifying to be driveable for a fuel-injection car

2) We have a race tank which has the built-in reservoir, but you'll lose capacity and boot space (I assume the latter if it sits higher)

3) Get one made up by a 3rd party that takes an off-the-shelf LR pump that solves your issues

 

Clearly option 3 for road users would make way more sense. I could have built the car right in the first place.

 

i had a two inch collar made out of ali then cut the LR pump down works a treat and only takes a couple of hours

i now you are getting frustrated with the problems you are having but the the system i have works and there are a few others that have it as well with no problems

Can you clarify, as I was under a different impression. Are you saying the LR pump will drop through the fuel sender hole in a standard GBS tank with just an adapting collar? I had been led to believe you needed to essentially remove the old 6-hole flange and have this new collar welded into place?

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