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Z20Let In A 2B


steve_wilson

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hi all

 

been considering an engine change but not really sure what i want, hence why i am here looking for advice and experience!

 

i've read in the hoody magazines that some people are attempting to or have already fitted a z20let to thier hoods.

i've got a vx220 with a z20let in, so i know the engine fairly well having spent many days laid underneath the thing. i also know theyre very capable engines and will take 300bhp on standard internals which sounds about right for me.

 

 

so ive got a few quations regarding fitment to a 2b

how does it mate to a type 9 box? are bellhousings available?

what clutch and flywheel do you use?

what inlet manifold do you use, is the standard one ok?

do you have decent sump clearance?

 

 

changing to fuel injection shouldnt be a problem, will use megasquirt, i'll be able to fabricate engine mounts, turbo downpipe and so on.

 

 

sooooo,

apart from the above questions, any feedback whatsoever on the conversion, or links to other websites would be greatly appreciated!

 

thanks, steve

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I'm part way into this already and have been picking up tips from Kerry who has a 2B with the Z20LET on the road.

The engine will mate to the type 9 using the same bellhousing as the C20XE, available from companies like A Frame engineering, SBD or Yukspeed.

I'm using a solid flywheel from as Astra GSI, which will hopefully fit the bellhousing as it is, but if not I'll have to get the outer ring machined off. Clutch is still up in the air at the moment, Kerry has been on a journey of discovery and is on a six paddle driven plate with a C20LET pressure plate on a modified vectra 2.2 flywheel. I'm hoping to use the GSI pressure plate (basically the same as the C20LET) and an uprated friction plate.

The original inlet manifold will fit in the engine bay, but until I drop it in I don't know if I'll need to put an extra section in the steering column or whether moving the rack across will give enough clearance.The throttle body will need changing, it's fly by wire.

The sump will need changing and you'll need to lose the balance shafts from in there too. There is a balance shaft deletion kit available for around £100 or you can tap the oil feeds in the bearing caps and fit bolts to blank them for a couple of pence instead. Steel sump from any of the 1.8/2.0 engines can be modified and cost around £30 brand new.

 

You'll need to remove the coil mounting/heater outlet/egr valve from the rear of the head or modify the cross rail and bulkhead to fit. I've taken it off and fitted core plugs along with an aluminium plate.

Then you need to find somewhere for the temp sender and coolant sender for the ecu. Thanks to Kerry for pointing me to the two core plugs under the inlet manifold which can be removed and tapped for adapter bosses.

 

After that there's the intercooler, all the pipework, improved cooling system and you're there.

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hi steve

 

many thanks for posting, very helpful reply. does kerry come on here at all?

 

it does sound do-able then.

 

i'm going to create a shopping list and do a bit of pricing up i think. will no doubt be back with more questions

 

thanks again

steve

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It's easily do-able, all the alterations I've done so far have been pretty easy, especially when someone has done them already!

I'm just waiting for my sump and engine mounting coming back from the fab shop then the engine can go in.

 

Kerry does come on here, not sure how often and he goes under the name of Kerry

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Hi Steve, Its a good solid engine, and worth the trouble, not sure how Steve (stockport)is getting on with his inlet manifold, I made a custom unit. There is enough room for intercooler, but plenty of ventilation in the engine bay is important. Kerry

 

 

I

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sorry don't mean to be a party pooper but is your car still on sliding pillar? i've never driven sliding pillar to be honest but from what ive heard it is limited somewhat. I would look at upgrading to full double wishbone before putting 300 horses loose on it as surely that is beyond its current design capabilities? get the handling sorted first maybe. Have you got camber shims on the rear to correct the toe-in and camber?

 

happy to be told i'm wrong :nea:

 

hth

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It's easily do-able, all the alterations I've done so far have been pretty easy, especially when someone has done them already!

I'm just waiting for my sump and engine mounting coming back from the fab shop then the engine can go in.

 

Kerry does come on here, not sure how often and he goes under the name of Kerry

Hi Steve, Its a good solid engine, and worth the trouble, not sure how Steve (stockport)is getting on with his inlet manifold, I made a custom unit. There is enough room for intercooler, but plenty of ventilation in the engine bay is important. Kerry

 

many thanks chaps, im sure i will be in touch with you guys a lot more in the coming months!

kerry, is there any chance you could give more details on the bellhousing, flywheel and clutch set-up you have? part numbers, drawings, dimensions etc

Thanks, steve

 

sorry don't mean to be a party pooper but is your car still on sliding pillar? i've never driven sliding pillar to be honest but from what ive heard it is limited somewhat. I would look at upgrading to full double wishbone before putting 300 horses loose on it as surely that is beyond its current design capabilities? get the handling sorted first maybe. Have you got camber shims on the rear to correct the toe-in and camber?

 

happy to be told i'm wrong :nea:

 

hth

 

wishbones are in the footwell all nicely powder coated just waiting to get them fitted - this will be the first job before fitting a new engine. but yes your are right, sliding pillar is ok, but thats it. i wouldnt want to run any more power than i have while on pillars.

 

camber shims have been fitted too, with some nice wide tyres on the back :)

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another question...

 

is it possible to keep the cable operated clutch?

dont fancy having to change the pedal box too (more expense)

 

thanks, steve

 

edit: answered my own question

http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Clutches/Clutch_Release_Mechanisms/Clutch_Release_Mechanisms.htm

 

:blush:

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well i ended up buying that engine yesterday, seemed like a good buy so just went for it!

 

kerry/steve what ecu did you guys use?

i've got the original ecu, transponder and keys from the stra gsi it was removed from... i dont suppose it would be possible to re-use it would it? i assume not but worth asking!

 

thanks, steve

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nothing is impossible, just depends on how much time you are willing to put into overcoming any hurdles.

The original ECU can be re-mapped so something must de do-able.

I'll be using an emerald ecu once I get to that point, just a bit expensive at £600 for the ecu plus extras.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The Z20LET had it's first fitting in the engine bay today and I'm pretty pleased with it.

The pot type flywheel and clutch cover fit inside the bellhousing that I had behind the red top, so that was one plus.

The other one is that it looks like I just need to 'adjust' the inlet manifold and the steering column a little with the grinder to be able to fit the original inlet manifold.

I've also replaced the sierra fusebox for a smaller neater item and cut the bonnet and made a fixed scuttle as part of the swap.

 

DSCF1319_zpse2767da0.jpg

 

DSCF1322_zps6488311c.jpg

 

DSCF1321_zpseefda8a1.jpg

 

DSCF1320_zpsba5d00b2.jpg

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That's looking pretty neet Steve. I'm on 4th fitting, and no where near deciding whether I have room for a brake master cylinder with the TB's in place - then again, I might just go all out in a blaze of glory.................

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