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andyparry

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About andyparry

  • Birthday 04/26/1975

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  • Car type
    2B Plus with Honda Super Blackbird Engine on carbs
  • Full name
    Andy Parry

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  • Website URL
    http://

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chatham, Kent
  • Interests
    Golf, kit cars, drinking.......

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  1. I had a similar problem years ago. My diagnostic route was chock the front wheels and put the back of the car up on axle stands. Spin up the wheels and see if you still get the vibration. If you do, take the wheels off. If it's still there, take the half shafts off to the diff. If its still there, take the prop off. If it's still there are that, then the only spinning components left are the gearbox and engine. I would guess at a problem with the clutch / flywheel at the point as the heaviest rotating mass. One change at a time and you'll be able to figure out what the route cause is.
  2. Try organising a parcel pickup with Interparcel.com. By far the cheapest parcel 'agency' for stuff that is a bit heavy or large. Will be a lot cheaper and less time consuming than a 600 mile round trip.
  3. I'm one of them. Took my age related 1988 F plate off to put a private plate on. Took that off at one point and got a 53 plate back from the DVLA which was when it was originally SVA'd / registered (Dec '03).
  4. I don't know if I was just lucky, but I got an age related plate, replaced it with a personalised plate, sent the paperwork off to the DVLA to take the plate back off again, but didn't get the age related back. I got a new plate for the year I built it ! Result. It was a few years ago though, so I expect them to be slightly more savvy now.
  5. I finally found some time last night to take the car for a test drive to see if the new vacuum pump was working. All actually seem to be working really well. Peter - your explanation on how the servo works is spot on. There is no pitch change when the brake pedal is untouched. There is a slight change when the pedal is pressed. Either way, the brakes are back to being a sharp and good feel as I would like them. This also suggests that my brake servo is in fact actually working as well. Bob - thanks for the offer of the servo. Much appreciated, but now not needed. Agent Zed - the 4off screw threads into my carbs are all 4mm. That's a root of 3.3mm. I therefore took some M4 screws and drilled a 2mm hole up the middle. That gave me a total area across all 4 carbs, of about 12.5mm^2. The new x-type pump has an input port of ~50mm^2, so I've got 4 times the air flow that I previously had. The down side to all of this is that something else has now gone wrong! It seems that the engine has gone out of tune when idling or at low revs. It is very lumpy, almost as if it is running on 3 at low revs. I'm wondering if having the engine tuned with the 4 carbs all manifolded together, albeit through 3mm ID piping, and now removing that manifold has had an adverse effect on the tuning. I'm going to whip the carbs off and have a look to ensure that the new 4 blanking screws are not sticking out in to the carbs and affecting the airflow. After that, apart from the normal checks for sparks and fuel, I think it will be a trip to the tuners. Any other ideas? Thanks for your comments chaps. Andy
  6. I've been using the original sierra estate brake servo and master cylinder since I built the car in 2003. When I took the pinto efi lump out and fitted the blackbird, I wanted to retain the servo as I don't like the feel of a servoless system. I therefore tapped off each of the 4 carb intakes, manifolded them together and used that as the vacuum source for the servo. The problem was that due to the small pipe size, it took a while to build up pressure, meaning I only had one good hit on the brakes before I was into the uncomfortable feel territory. I've just fitted an electric vacuum pump from and x-type and linked directly to the servo. All is plumbed up and wired. If I put my finger over the pipe it draws a good vacuum and the pump pitchchanges. When I run it on the servo, there is no change of pitch, even when I press the pedal. So my question is, how does the servo work? I would have expected the pump to evacuate the servo and hold it under a reduced pressure.....or do I have a knackered servo? Andy
  7. Put the tax on fuel. Pay for what you use. More of an incentive to have an economical car then. Solves the 60k reps in efficient car problem as well.
  8. My understanding of a bike fuel pump is that they are used with a gravity fed tank on the bike to try and balance the pressure to the four carbe . If you are using it to pump from the back of the car, the pressure drop through the lines will be substantial. I changed to using a facet high flow, low pressure pump on a re-cirulation loop back to the tank. I put a pressure regulator on the return pipe and a pressure gauge on the feed pipe just before the carbs. That way I could regulate the pressue to ensure I got 2-5psi at the carbs with a high flow rate. If the pressure is too high, you'll just blast the fuel past and floats and end up with fuel on the floor.
  9. If you are going to use stamps, make sure the chassis is grounded hard, i.e jacked up on axle stands. If not, unsurprisingly, the shocks will absorb the shock and you'll end up with a bounce and blood.
  10. My parents have got the estate. Shame. Thanks for the offer anyway Bob. Andy
  11. Bob, is that for a 5 door hatch or an estate? Andy
  12. The fan is not going to push or pull air through the rad at any more than about 20mph air speed. That means that if the car is moving above 20mph, the fan becomes an air flow restriction. Take Bobs advice, fit the fan behind, but also cut off as much of the excess housing as you dare. That will remove the restriction, increase air flow and thus increase cooling.
  13. andyparry

    Traction Control

    Lighter right shoe!
  14. When I put my bike engine in, I knocked up a PowerPoint of annotated photos showing the engine number and capacity stamped onto the block. That was enough for the DVLA. Was about 10 years ago, so rules may of changed since then!
  15. andyparry

    Ford Focus

    Sounds like a dodgy earth problem to me or a chaffed wire shorting out to the chassis. Have a check of a Haynes manual and see if they are on teh same circuit or use the same earth bonding point.
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