Wheel Stud Length

[danielbrookes]

Hmmm. Looking at a few other threads on here I think I may need to change my wheel studs for longer ones.

 

Anyone able to confirm if they definitely need changing or if it will simply limit the wheel choice I have?

 

I really don't fancy swapping them but will do if required. With disk on hub there is 22mm from disk face to end of stud?

 

Thanks for help, again! Hopefully a question will pop up I can answer so I can give a little back

[kevin the chicken]

Depends on the depth of the wheels you are using. How much thread is there in the nut when the wheels are on? If you haven't yet chosen your wheels then you need to do that first and then change the studs if needed. You may need to use spacers to get your wheels in the right place which would probably mean longer studs.

I have to change mine because there is not enough stud in the nuts. I tried some nuts that had longer shoulders to overcome the problem but although they were supposed to fit nearly all wheels they wouldn't fit through mine meaning I am back to square one.

[danielbrookes]

Hmm thanks Kevin, I haven't purchased wheels yet so unsure which ones I will end up with. I really don't fancy replacing them as its a lot of work. I was hoping there would be a standard but it sounds like it depends on wheels.

[Peter Bell]

You need to make sure that you have a minimum thread engagement the same as the diameter of the thread, I think they are M12 threads. Changing the studs is quite straight forward.

[danielbrookes]

You need to make sure that you have a minimum thread engagement the same as the diameter of the thread, I think they are M12 threads. Changing the studs is quite straight forward.

 

Thanks Peter - do you have to take the hubs back off the car to change the studs? I've literally just finished putting the front calipers on and the rears last month so I really, really dont want to take it all apart again.

[Guest Knownothing]

If you do need to change this is how I was guided through replacing a rear stud.

 

http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=42615&hl=

[Guest 2b cruising]

With drums can usually turn the hub to a suitable possition to remove and replace studs.

Disc brakes usually can be changed in any possition.

A sharp smack with a hammer will remove them, but make sure that you are not going to bash them into a cylinder if they are drum.

Pull the new studs in using the wheel nuts backwards for the flat serface. Back up with washers or larger nuts to get the right length of pull to get the studs up to the mating shoulder.

Take the car for a short run with plenty of corners and retighten wheels.

First opportunity take for a longer run around 50 miles and recheck tightness.

The tightening stages should also be carried out if the hubs have been removed to fit studs with a hydraulic press.

[danielbrookes]

Well I managed to get the studs out last week, tried getting new ones in today and what an absolute nightmare. I've done one hub and it was an absolute challenge to say the least. I'm going to purchase a press, there seem to be some cheap ones about.

 

I've tried using washers and wheel nut and so far I've threaded one stud, wrecked one wheel nut and I'm beyond frustrated so downed tools.

 

I'm hoping a cheap press will do the job as all hubs are now off the car. Beer earned I think!

[Guest 2b cruising]

Just be very careful that you don't distort the hub plate when using a press.

This is a very common occurrence and an easy mistake to make.

Still knock the old ones out as it's the easiest way.

Then use a close fitting diameter socket to push the stud into.

This will take away any pressure spreading across the hub to wheel mating face.

If you are removing your hubs anyway, why not use the hammer to drift them back in.

It's not as hard as it might appear.

Once again use a deep socket in the vice to knock them in.

It means all the force will go where it is needed.

About thread depth for tightening nuts, 12 mm threads as you have require a minimum of 9 full turns on the nut.

Have you counted the turns on yours before you do something that might not be needed.

[danielbrookes]

Thanks, I tried already to tap them in but you now have me thinking. Perhaps my choice of hammer isn't correct (claw!) I guess I should use a lump, that may be why I am struggling. I'm going to give them another go tomorrow before purchasing a press.

 

The old studs were rusty and the threads on some looked questionable, plus they seemed short so decided best to replace.

[cb750]

I just used a vice and spacer tube to press mine in.

[danielbrookes]

I bent the handle on my vice trying to do the same today lol

[Guest 2b cruising]

We're the studs Ford specific?

Although the thread can be the same, you get different size stubs.

If they have a flat or shaped serface, make sure you line them up right.

I know your not a thicky but just putting things on your mind.

[danielbrookes]

yup they are Ford, good question though! I'm going to buy a propper lump hammer today. Maybe after a good nights sleep and fresh mind today I will have more success

[cb750]

Have they supplied you with studs that have oversize shanks? These are available to take up any damage that can occur when pressing out the old studs.