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2B Seat/harness Support Opinions (Pic Heavy)


FERRINO

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Cheers for doing the sketch - I can see how that would work too. :)

 

To be honest, if what I have will work it would save a load of grinding and re-welding if I just stick with it. I did have a quick think about what to do with the tunnel side panels the other night and have 2 options as I see it.

 

1) Use the existing tunnel side panels that taper down (notched slightly to clear the angle iron obstruction). This will leave the angle protruding through the sides. When the carpet goes in it can be glued to the angle as it goes over it and a little flap can be cut in the carpet in the rear open area of the angle in case the IVA man asks to see access to the harness mount nut.

 

2) The stepped out angle iron brings the tunnel sides almost bang on level with the tunnel front - so I could knock up some new 'flat' tunnel sides and just have it run straight back (again with a little flap to get access to harness mount nut when required)

 

In hindsight - I should have purchased some 7/16" nuts during this section of the build and welded them captive to the back of the angles - I didn't and now its hard to get to for welding and its painted - ahhhhhhh hindsight!

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yeah if you box it in straight from the front you could leave an open section in front of the angle and cut the edge down a bit so you have a pocket on both sides, which could look good and be really useful for a bit of extra storage.

 

or box the tunnel around the angle and then in the 'gap' in front of the angle put some elasticated mesh from the angle to the wide part to again create a pocket.

 

just a thought

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yeah if you box it in straight from the front you could leave an open section in front of the angle and cut the edge down a bit so you have a pocket on both sides, which could look good and be really useful for a bit of extra storage.

 

or box the tunnel around the angle and then in the 'gap' in front of the angle put some elasticated mesh from the angle to the wide part to again create a pocket.

 

just a thought

 

I like it - extra storage, good thinking. You need somewhere to put your mobile and other bits even when you're driving a kit car I suppose. :)

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Guest chris brown

As others have said it will work and definitely wont fail only thing is I can't see any nuts in place! As I read it a seat belt should be able to be removed from one side which means anchor nuts have to be used so you will need nuts welding on the back of the mounts.

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As others have said it will work and definitely wont fail only thing is I can't see any nuts in place! As I read it a seat belt should be able to be removed from one side which means anchor nuts have to be used so you will need nuts welding on the back of the mounts.

 

if you can't get to the rear to weld the nuts is there any reason you couldn't weld the nut to some flat bar and then put a self tapper though to hold it in place. The self tapper would just hold it up and the angle would stop it turning on tightening or loosening?

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Guest chris brown

 

 

Exactly what I did, weld nut to piece of steel with hole in it now bolt in place and drill 2 holes and either pop rivet or use self tappers to hold in place. The reason I recommend 2 fixings is it is very difficult to realign if you take the belts off later. BTW top mountings where you can get to both sides of the mounting easyly as on the 2B then the nut doesn't need to be anchored

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Cheers for the info Chris - much appreciated.

 

I can actually easily get to both sides of the lower harness fixings from inside the car without having to remove anything. Does that mean it will be ok?

 

I've had a quick look through the IVA manual in the seatbelt anchorage section. On page 7 of 18 there is a section 'Anchorages on steel chassis'. The third point states "Threaded seatbelt anchorage fastening should be welded into tubes or onto plates of sufficient thickness". Is that stating that 'if' the seatbelt mount points are welded it must be to something of sufficient thickness or is it saying that all threaded seatbelt mount points must be welded captive?

 

Cheers

Tony :)

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  • 7 months later...
Guest PaulB49

Hi I'm in about the same place with my seats. Was just going to use 40mm box section instead of angle. Its helped me jjust seeing someone else had the same idea.

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Nice one Paul - good to hear that. It really was a terrible design flaw I think from Robin Hood with the 2B , not providing proper solid Inner seat belt mount provisions. Fair enough to allow people to mount their seats straight to the floor pan if they want - but not something safety critical like the harness points. :o

 

Anywho - just in case you are interested, I took all the comments raised above in the thread into account (particularly the captive nut situation) and it's moved along a bit now.

 

I took off some paint and welded a 7/16" nut captive onto the rear of the outer vertical angles (don't have a pic of that but fairly obvious).

 

Took a strip of steel and welded a 7/16 nut to that and fitted it to the inside of the inner angles with countersunk screws each side:-

 

Also - added a DanST prop catcher which fitted perfectly across the new angles.

 

 

20140324_204904_zps911c976d.jpg

 

20140324_204921_zps61f05c9f.jpg

 

 

Cable conduit and fuel/brake lines are in now too (had to route them around and under the new centre section which was a bit of a pain - but looks ok now):-

 

20140323_213659_zps250a3fba.jpg

 

20140323_213716_zpsbd41db8c.jpg

 

20140323_213759_zpsbd807d30.jpg

 

20140323_213812_zpsb0e8f2e4.jpg

Edited by FERRINO
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Some really good pics. Have saved a few for reference. hope you don't mind. Hope to get on with it this weekend coming.

 

Not at all - glad they have helped B)

 

It would be great if you could post up some pics of yours too when its done. Good luck with it and look forward to seeing the result!

 

Cheers

Tony

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  • 1 month later...

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