Efi Keeps Cutting Out

[Guest Kieran]

My 2B trauma continues!!

 

Nearly reaching the end of my teather, SVA on wednesday.

 

When cold, car starts and runs fine. Pootle about, runs ok. Give it any stick, it gets all tetchy, splutters and wants to cut out. Let it cool for a while and all ok. Fuel supply good and i've replace the coil. Still same.

 

As a side note, i have a dodgy wire in the bundle that terminate at the ecu. When running, if I tug the bunch, the engine dies instantly. (I'd thought I'd sorted this a couple of weeks ago, but apparently not).

 

I keep thinking i've found it, but cant wiggle just one wire at a time......!!

 

Im now wondering if it is a pin actually on the ecu??

 

Anyone got a carb and manifold for sale........??

 

Kieran

[Guest hypermick]

Hi Kieran

 

This is the very reason Ive not bothered with the EFI, ECU and the rest of the nonsense. Call me brave or stupid but as a result Ive also cut out heaps of excess wiring from the entire loom. However I'm still at early build stages and have had the benefit of running the loom up in "dummy mode" first ie,. by laying the whole thing out, attaching whatever it needs, lights, indicators, horn, etc etc as will be fitted to the car and that in itself was a real benefit, when everything can be got at instantly should there be a failure detected. It sounds like youve got dodgy electrics assuming the fuel pump isnt screwing your car up.

In place of the EFI I opted for a 2ltr Granada Weber twin choke with basic manual choke operation and ,............................a bosch dizzy with genuine old fashioned points & condenser, which both work a treat.

My philosophy,.........keep it simple and if it aint there to begin with it cant go wrong !!

Hope you get it sorted

 

Mick

[Guest Battery Bill]

Mick

There is not really that much extra wiring required for the EFI and I do not think there is anything wrong with the injection system.

The way you described spreading the loom out is just as easy with the EFI part of the loom on!

My philosophy,.........keep it simple and if it aint there to begin with it cant go wrong !!

Would you not be better with a Horse and cart then ?

Kieran

How did you sort it in the end? New ECU?

[Guest Guy]

It must be a bad connection Kieran, have you sroted it yet?

 

If not remove the plug that goes into the ECU and see if any pins are recessed into the connector so are not making contact. I think you'll have to remove the insulation and separate the wires to find the faulty one. Have you done up the bolt that holds this connector in? Are you sure the bad connection is not somewhere else in the loom?

 

On the simplicity debate (which isn't part of this thread) I chose to keep the EFI because I reckon it was simpler than changing to carbs and is more reliable.

[Big Jim]

On the simplicity debate (which isn't part of this thread) I chose to keep the EFI because I reckon it was simpler than changing to carbs and is more reliable.

 

Got to disagree with you there Guy, nothing is more simpler than the inductive ignition system (see below), apart from a little guy with a box of matches!

 

BUT, what I will say is that so long as the EFI ECU is working OK, then there is no history of problems with this system, it's one of the better ones that Uncle Henry brought out. I think that they're like TV sets, they don't like being moved and messed about with, but once they've settled down they're fine.

 

Just to add some coal on the fire, I think that people who go back to points & ballast resister type ignition, are nutters!

 

 

(Piccy courtesy of Longboarder, I think!)

[Guest Ant]

The biggest problem with the EFi setup is that some people are "scared" of it. Any ignition fault or fuel problem is a git to solve until you have found the problem - that goes for EFi setup as well as carbs and ignition modules. Standard procedures like "is there a _good_ spark at the plug", "is there fuel getting through to the exhaust side" etc etc all work equally well.

 

Anyhow, today is wednesday. How did it go??????

 

Ant

[Guest Guy]

To convert to carb you’ve got to find a carb and manifold that fits, strip and clean it and re-assemble it, remove the injection manifold and repair any broken studs, fit the carb and new manifold, change the dizzy, plum in the carb with a new fuel pump, set it up and even then you can still have problems.

 

I think the injection system is easer. Just plug the wires back in and off you go, the problem only comes in if you have a fault then you have to fault find an electrical system instead of a central heating system.

 

Each to there own.

[Guest Kieran]

I had the 2B "tuned" today at my local Bosch fuel injection centre. The guy had it for 2 and a half days. He did a Diagnostic check, reset the throttle pot and "base" idle, and recalibrated the airflo meter, to suit my vertical mounting.

 

The car sounded better, and had a much sturdier tickover, but driving home, the damn thing started its cutting out trick again.

 

Basically, when the car is fully warm it runs fine, cuts out for a moment, gives a pop and continues. It does this about every 5 seconds...... :boohoo:

 

It is a bit tiring to drive and you have to time traffic lights and juctions very well.....

 

I phoned the guy when I got home and he apologised but said that the airflow meter isn't really designed to run vertically, due to gravity wanting to pull the vane closed. He recommended moving it and bringing it back so he could run it up on his rolling road. Today I have relocated the airflo unit behind the radiator. What I don't understand is, that until it is hot, it runs fine. Because I havent passed my SVA, I can't really drive it around willynilly to test it, unless it is booked in anywhere.

 

Anybody think of what else could cause this strange phenonomem????

 

As a side note the guy seemed really clued up, and only charged £61.10 for 2 and a half days work. bargain or wot!!!

 

Kieran

[Guest Battery Bill]

Kieran

Because I havent passed my SVA, I can't really drive it around willynilly to test it, unless it is booked in anywhere.

I thought it was only MOT/SVA tests that you could legally drive to I would like to drive to a local Engine tuner but I don't think its legal till the SVA is complete

[Guest Ant]

Not sure about that. I think you might be ok if it's a pre-booked appontment for work to be done, and its all insured.

 

I would ask insurance company. If they say it's ok then I'd do it. Insurance is the only real obstacle anyhow.

 

Ant

[Guest Battery Bill]

Ant

I think you might be ok if it's a pre-booked appontment for work to be done, and its all insured.

just phoned Roadsure and they have confirmed.....

You are correct

Cheers

[Guest daveg]

Bill

 

Well done mate

 

Now you don't need a sva just insurance

 

If anyone asks...you are on your way to me to have work done...if you're on your way out...or returning if on your way home...

 

Dave

[Guest Battery Bill]

daveq

you are on your way to me to have work done

We would never get it done then

[Guest Phil Slater]

Kieran

 

he apologised but said that the airflow meter isn't really designed to run vertically, due to gravity wanting to pull the vane closed

 

I may have misunderstood his description of how he mounted his airflow meter, but I think Ant has his mounted vertically, and he's done some considerable miles with no apparent problems caused by this.

 

It may be worth confirming this with him.

 

I'm interested cos I too have mounted my meter vertically and although I have now got a steady reliable tickover I have not yet had the opportunity to drive in ernest.

 

Phil Slater

[Guest daveg]

How can it be the air flow meter's orientation if it temperature dependant?

 

I would check the temperature sensor...

 

Dave