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Gauges Reading Garbage


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Evening,

So think I'm set for the first mot in 10 years but have a couple of niggling issues - non of which I do t think would mean a fail but will no doubt cause me pain at some point.

 

Both issues relate the the gauges, first off I bought some unknown ickneild dials ages ago, got them working with a pinto but no such luck with the zerec.

 

Fuel- with the multimeter set to 200 the fuel gauge reads 1.6 ohms when 3/4 full, the dial when connected shoots to full, with a 100r potentiometer fitted shows wherever I like but doesn't vary when more fuels added. Any ideas? Is this a simple take of choosing a lower rated potentiometer?

 

Temp, the one that worries me not having working now the dials and zerec sender don't match so I'd like a way of getting a broad reading without replacing both-is this possible? Multimeter Set to 200k reads 41.4 when cold, 15 after 5 mins of idling...standard zerec reading I imagine. The temp sensor doesn't move a dime throughout. Is there a simple ish solution?

 

Thanks for any help

 

 

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Ok I would start with the wiring.

If the gauges don't move it sounds like they are getting direct earths

You can buy from car builder solutions a fuel gauge matcher to enable diff senders to work with diff gauges

There are some simple tests you can try like dropping the temp sender you have in say the top of the rad when cold and run the engine for a while and as the water heats up see if the gauge moves.

If the wiring is correct you should get some readings even if there well out.

Do the gauges have live ,Earth and sender connections or a diff wiring set up.

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Sounds like the fuel gauge is not wired correctly to the sender, and that it is in fact wired to ground. You could prove that you have something on the sender by measuring the voltage across it with the ignition on. If there are no volts then its not wired to the gauge.

 

What gauges do you have for the temperature are the smiths?

 

Nige

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In terms of wiring both gauges have power - connected to 12v, ground- to chassis, sender, to sensor ??

 

Fuel - uses standard Sierra sender that was original for the kit, as far as I can see/remember there is only one wire coming from the top by the fuel pipes - this should be the sensor?

 

Temp - I was thinking that signal the zerec uses was too low and therefore needs upping to get a reading?

 

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If the temp sender from the pinto worked can you not fit that into the zetec?

Yes single wire from top of tank is the sender.

The fuel gauge issue should not be related to the engine change, is the tank earthed, is there continuity from sender to gauge, is the float actually moving in the tank seen one jammed against side of tank before. Can you get the sender out to see or jack up one side of car to see if it changes?

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Fuel guage.

If you have a ford sender then some also had a switch that connected to a fuel low light.

They sometimes also had a second scale to provide input to a not very acurate mpg display.

Check the sender conectrions.

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If the temp sender from the pinto worked can you not fit that into the zetec?

Yes single wire from top of tank is the sender.

The fuel gauge issue should not be related to the engine change, is the tank earthed, is there continuity from sender to gauge, is the float actually moving in the tank seen one jammed against side of tank before. Can you get the sender out to see or jack up one side of car to see if it changes?

+1 for all jet said

Take temp sender from pinto or a new one from Ford they are col coded.

 

Stephen

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