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Newly Bought S7 - Questions


Daled

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Hi,

 

I recently bought my first Robin Hood and its an S7 with a stainless steel monocoque chassis from a local guy, and while its not on the road, it has been on the road before and all it really needs is an MOT and I will be having fun ! anyway the guy who had it pulled bits off of it here and there, they all came in a box... which I need to sift through to see if its any good.

 

Its been looked at by a mechanic and has given me a "list" of things that need to be fixed before it can pass MOT, but I have been speaking to Richard from GBS and he has given me a steer around a couple of things, but I would like to ask a few more questions on what others have done and some advice based on what I am thinking of doing...

 

1. there is a short in the electrics that needs to be sorted, but I am thinking that I might get a sparky to pull it all out and put in a new fuse box and master isolator switch so that I can ensure that its done properly. Has anyone got advice on what I should also consider ?

2. Fuel system:

the fuel filler pipe looks like it came from the doner car and has an breather / overflow section that is open and needs to be sealed... although I dont know whether I should use a end cap or fill it with a sealant (or both) as it wont pass MOT with it open.

the fuel sender unit, looks like its an aftermarket one but is only held on by 4 bolts which are studded into the fuel tank and while I think its working... I need to seal it as well as it failed a smoke test, and I dont know whether refitting a new sender unit might be better.

3. CHassis:

its all stainless and it looks like it has been welded in some places already i cant see any major cracks anywhere so I think I am ok, however I have told that I should add some additional bracing for the front suspension as that is where the most of issues will come from with metal fatigue. SO thats not something that I can do and was going to send it somewhere to get it done (maybe GBS themselves) but if anyone has done this before I would like to know.

4. Suspension:

front: is missing a few bolts and the wing brackets need to replaced but I have some new ones with the car, however I would like to know whether anyone has a diagram on how the suspension is meant to go together as I think I am missing a few bits.

rear: everthing looks ok but I think the rear bottom wishbone is quite rusty and may need replaced, but if I am going to pull the suspension apart to replace all the bushes then I might replace it as well, but I dont know where I can get a decent replacement from as I cant find any reconditioned bits online.

5. engine

its a pretty decent engine (from the documentation I have) but the biggest question I have is whether its any good as the fuel is very old, the Carbs (dual webers) need be serviced and it doesnt idle. but I have had conflicting advice on what to do... from replacing it with a Zetec to just a service and tune! does any one have any advice to how to check it out properly.

 

Sorry for the long post... I hope someone can help.

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Wow. Sounds just like mine when I got it..

 

1, the electrical problem, I had the same thing (kept blowing a fuse) ,turned out there was a wire trapped under the drivers side, rear wheel arch which was causing a short. Fixed it by re insulating the wire and cable tied where It can't trap.

 

2. Fuel filler, mine stunk of petrol around the back end because I had the same set up as you describe. Fixed by removing it completely and replacing with new flexible fuel hose and jubilee clips on each end. I did a bit of fabrication in stainless steel to improve the fuel tank pipe connection and a new filler neck. Check any rubber parts in contact with fuel, after a while it starts to melt..

The fuel sender should be easy enough to re-seal.

 

3. Chassis , OK this job was done by a previous owner. They used thick aluminium plates to strengthen where the suspension is bolted. Everything is good and solid.

 

4. Suspension. Sorry don't know here mine was fine. However I did remove surface rust and paint with gloss black. :)

 

5. Engine. I don't know what you mean by 'fuel is very old', if you mean its been in the tank awhile , just disconnect the pipe going to the carbs, switch on ignition and pump what's in the tank into a container, then reconnect pipe and refill tank with new.

I'm guessing it's a pinto engine. Just make sure it can be run on unleaded fuel.. other than that it should be fine with a few adjustments. Start with the ignition timing.

 

That's about it I think, probably more I have forgotten or don't know ;) I'm relatively new, more experienced members may be more help :)

 

Good luck , Tom

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There are a selection of posts about how to reinforce the chassis and I have done most of them.

You can search this forum using my forum name, Snapperpaul and others such as Big Jim.

 

I have a lot of info about the monocoque chassis but to much to post, u2u with your email and Ill compile all the info and photos I have on the subject.

 

A quick fix for the sender is to use an old oil filter seal. The studs welded to the tank distort it if you over tighten, I drilled out 2 pieces of steel bar and bridged 2 studs using the 2 bars to pull down the sender, this gives a more even pressure

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firstly you need to decide which monocoque model you have, many people call their cars "S7" but that was only used for a very short time as Caterham took RH to court to get him to stop using it. go to http://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htmto find out which model you have, but be aware there were a few "one-off" whilst he experimented with different things.

Edited by Big Jim
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I wouldnt take too much advice from GBS, they had no dealings with the monocoques and from my experience have very poor knowledge and understanding of them.

 

To answer your questions.

 

1) thats really only a decision you can make, it could be a simple fix but you could be chasing an issue forever.

 

2) you can block up the fuel filler, but must make sure you have a vented fuel cap! Otherwise a hose connected to it, looped up and then back to the floor, should be suitable for MOT. It was for IVA!

 

 

3) strengthening the floor can be done with a length of steel angle bolted to the floor. Assuming you have inboard shocks Id pick up at the front shocks mounting the floor and run angle back under the main cockpit area.

 

4) wed need to know which version you have to help, there are a number of different cars called s7 as Jim mentioned.

 

5) sounds like you have a pinto? They can be great, and they can be a bag of nails, but at this stage I wouldnt be rushing to change unless you have a huge desire for some other engine.

 

As for old fuel, If you mean it has old petrol in the tank first thing is drain it and out Fresh in. Next get it to a garage that can fine the carbs and set the timing. Then see how you like it. If you dont, Im sure youd be able to sell it for good money as pintos are only increasing in value.

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hey, thanks for all the feedback really appreciate it :good

 

from what I an tell in the documentation and the link above (thanks for that) its a mark 3 with inboard coli overs. so I guess the question is whether I need to brace the front suspension. and if there are any fabricators in and around london that know what they are doing in regards to this.

 

I have decided to get the electrics sorted out first as I think this is the biggest hazard and then will replace the fuel filler as suuggested above with a flex hose instead as well as a few other things.

 

I will post some pics tomorrow to get your opinions.

 

Dale

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

HI Paul, 

 

Apologies for being so quiet, it was very useful and it helped me decide what to do with the car as there are clearly things I can do myself and other things that I am going to get done as buying the tools to it once is probably not great. 

 

I have at a garage at the moment to get a new rear axle fitted, as this requires more than 1 person to do the work I want to do.... basically want them to drop the whole rear sub frame axle and all and fit a newer more serviced one.  

Anyway once this is done I am thinking that I will focus on the engine as its running really rough and its using oil in number 3 cylinder and there is a lot of carbon in number 4 which means at best a new head gasket or worst recon the engine as the rings are broken and its scored the block. 

 

anyway its a longer journey than I liked, but hey these things are a labour of love! 

 

Dale 

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