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Drive Shaft Gaiter


Guest Captain Daz

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Guest Captain Daz

How long/difficult to change one of these? Mine perised and has spread all its grease around the inside of the wheel.

 

Also, what extra tools are needed? Three leg puller and...?

 

Cheers

 

Daren

 

And I still haven't got the blasted thing registered!!!

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Guest Nigel Novice

If memory serves me right the shaft is held in the CV joint by either a circlip on the end of the shaft and can be seen from the hub or diff side of joint (with the shaft disconnected), although some have a snap ring clip type internally and just require a sharp tap to knock shaft out/joint off, the CV boot then can be slipped on quite easily and the reassemble and repack with grease.

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Hi Darren,

if you have the push in type you can get a stretchy boot that will slide over the CV joint without dismantling it.

 

I got a pair from Brown Brothers in Dartford, a few years back. NFI of the reference number any more. Sorry!

 

Bob

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Guest Captain Daz

Peter

 

Am thinking of going for the split gaiter. I've only found a universal one. Know if they're any good?

 

Bob

 

if you have the push in type

 

And what thing is actually the 'push in' bit? Do you mean the sprung joint? Or the joint with the cover that you have to cut off and then push in the replacement?

 

Sorry. Lack of knowledge on my part. :D

 

Cheers

 

Daz

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Guest mower man

DO NOT use split type they are s*** with a capital S most GOOD factors will hire out a cone 7lube .You take the shaft out (4wheel nuts ,drum 4bolts ) and using the cone replace inner or outer boots. Both sides in acouple of hours i.e both shafts both boots or allday if you take your time.MOWER MAN

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Guest salty_monk

Front end of a coke bottle cut off makes a decent enough "cone" to get one of the stretchy ones on. I agree it's the easiest / best way to go but also as Bob says, there should be a circlip on the shaft behind the joint so you can remove the whole joint if necessary.

 

When Bob says "push in type" he means push in drive shafts, push into the diff on splines, not Lobro with the 4 bolts.

 

Lessness at the Oval does the stretchy ones, I think SC Motors might too.

 

Dan :)

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Guest chris brown
Front end of a coke bottle cut off makes a decent enough "cone" to get one of the stretchy ones on. I agree it's the easiest / best way to go but also as Bob says, there should be a circlip on the shaft behind the joint so you can remove the whole joint if necessary.

 

When Bob says "push in type" he means push in drive shafts, push into the diff on splines, not Lobro with the 4 bolts.

 

Lessness at the Oval does the stretchy ones, I think SC Motors might too.

 

Dan :)

If it is the outer joint on the push in type then just remove the shaft and knock off the cv joint fit new boot regrease the joint and refit. If the lobro type then just as easy except there is a circlip to remove. I agree the stretchy ones are good but normally only available it two sizes, large and small but are excellent on French outer joints that don’t strip down as it saves having to strip the inner to replace the outer. As for the split type, don’t even think about trying it.

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Push in type have no visible bolt heads anywhere along the shaft, lobro joints have 6 bolt heads aroud both the inner and outer joints. No puller needed to do the push in type, just remove the wheel, brake drum and the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the backplate. Th shaft will then pull out of the diff and slide out through the trailing arm (make sure you've got a couple of feet clearance each side and watch for oil spillage from the diff.

 

Did mine about a month ago - inner and outer both sides and used the stretchy gaiters and bought a Draper plastic cone which was about 15 quid. Unlikely I'll use the tool again but as pretty well everything I'm likely to own is fwd I suppose you never know.

 

The proper gaiters have a steel can on them that slides around the outside of the joint and is staked over the joint to hold the joint together. I just cut off the old rubber part of the gaiter and left the cans in place

 

The gaiters take an unbelieveable amount of stetching - the bit that goes around the shaft (~25mm dia) has to stretch to fit over the joint (~70mm) but if you ease it over the cone carefully and use plenty of lubricant (oo er missus), it's not too bad.

 

I had to use a small screwdriver to help it along and ended up putting a pin hole in the gaiter but managed to just super glue that up easily enough so a blunter tool would have been a better idea.

 

I'm sceptical that a cut down Coke bottle would work as a cone, the tension on the gaiter was such that I think it would just collapse the big open end of the cone but then if someone has actually done it then it must be possible.

 

Finally, I left the hub and drive flange in place on the shaft (didn't undo the main driveshaft nut) so fitted the outer gaiters first, then turned the inner gaiter inside out, before sliding it on the cone and turning it back the right way round as I slid it off the cone onto the joint otherwise you end up with the inner gaiter back to front on the shaft.

 

Take your time so you don't damage the gaiters and you're probably looking at 3 hours to do all 4.

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Guest Captain Daz

Thanks for the heads up.

 

I'll leave the split ones well alone. The idea did raise an eyebrow I must admit.

 

I'll check to see if I can easily get the hub off if not I'll go down the stretchy route.

 

Off to get me some lube now.......Oh and the stuff for changing the gaiter. Ba Da Dum Tisch!

 

Thanks again to all.

 

Daz

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I have used split ones a couple of times without problems and I know of others who have used them. I think for an outer joint on a fwd they may be a bit suspect due to the amount of articulation in the joint but on a rear drive shaft? Am I the only supporter of these?

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Guest salty_monk

As a quick get you home fix for a few months I think they're great, just keep your eye on it. (which your average Joe doesn't but here I think we might be a bit more vigilant!)

 

Dan :)

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I have used split ones a couple of times without problems and I know of others who have used them. I think for an outer joint on a fwd they may be a bit suspect due to the amount of articulation in the joint but on a rear drive shaft? Am I the only supporter of these?

 

I have used a split gaiter in the past; I needed a quick fix to get a Nova through an MOT. It was still in place doing its job three years on when I sold it! I meticulously cleaned the joint before bonding and maybe I was lucky.

 

Would I use one on my pride and joy? Yes, if I didn't have much time and the sun was shinning towards the end of summer, but probably not if it was a planned job involving many leisurely hours in the garage with cold beers and peace and quiet. :D

 

Sean

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I've used split gaiters several times - all lasted the length of time I had the cars. I have one on the 2B which is into its third year and still intact. If you are carefull putting them on there is no reason why they shouldn't last. The key is to clean away any trace of grease or other contamination on the shaft before you put them on. (Don't worry about degreasing the joint, you can assemble the gaiter away from it further down the shaft.

 

As long as the glue joint is clear of grease and debris and you get a good bead of superglue (included) in the join (comes as a sort of tongue and groove) it's easy and the glue dries in seconds. Once you're happy its set you can go ahead and pack it with grease and cable tie it up over the joint.

 

Easy, cheap and effective and quick. ;)

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