Dizzy Wiring

[itllbedonesoon]

I am starting to feel like a dependant now with the amount of questions i have posted lately.

 

I have the simple ingnition circuit (6 wires) from the motorcraft amplifier onto a 2.0l pinto and according to the haynes manual, 2 wires go to the dizzy however.... the dizzy i have only has a connection for 1 wire.

 

From the dizzy there is one black wire with a connector and a green wire that goes to a capacitor type thing on the side of the dizzy (with no connector on it). Beyond these the are no obvious connction points/terminals.

 

This is the dizzy i have, Any ideas what to do with the other dizzy wire from the amplifier?

you will also have to speak slowly, as to me dizzy is what happens when you spin around and fall over.

 

[itllbedonesoon]

another pic

 

[Guest gavinc]

from the look of it that is an older points and condensor type dizzy

 

and does not require an amplfier..

[itllbedonesoon]

not sure where that leaves me now?

 

Where does the 1 black wire from the dizzy connect to if not to the amp?

What do i do with the 2 dizzy wires out of the amp?

[Guest salty_monk]

I don't see any points in there.....

 

Maybe it earths out through the body & the engine block & so only needs one connection? Hard to tell without the Haynes.

 

Dan

[Guest Gpayne]

it looks like a points dizzy the black wire usually goes to the coil earth terminal. does it have points? cant see clearly . the dizzy for the motorcraft amplifier has 3 wires. is there a pick up fitted inside the dizzy?(little black thing) some times these were fitted in points dizzys with aftermarket amplifiers

[Longboarder]

Thats a points dizzy (note the condenser) with vacuum and centrifugal advance. It does not go with the motorcraft six wire amplifier which requires a three wire, hall effect, Bosch dizzy.

 

You can run that dizzy perfectly well with a standard non electronic coil, no amplifier needed. Connections would be an ignition live wire to coil + terminal and connect the black wire from dizzy to coil neg terminal. Also add a green wire from coil neg to the rev counter. Bobs yer uncle.

 

You would get a better ignition setup using the motorcraft amplifier and its matched Bosch dizzy. Looks identical except for no condenser on the outside and has three wires going to a round three pin plug, automatic and vacuum advance, and the points are replaced with a four pointed metal 'star' sitting just below the rotor arm.

 

Nigel

[itllbedonesoon]

cheers everyone,

 

There is a brown wire inside the dizy that looks like it connects to the dizzy casing (potentially earthing thru the block??)

 

Sounds as tho it is a nice and simple circuit (but to counteract that i am a bit simple too). I have already wired in the dash instruments onto the multiplin plug from my sierra and the ignition into the VG loom as per VG instruction sheet. So if i connect the VG loom black & blk/White wires to the coil terminals and run a wire direct from coil -ve to the dizzy will VG take care of the revs & ignition and is bob still my uncle?

[Longboarder]

Sadly, when the VG loom was invented someone did not specify the use of the 'standard' Ford colour codes, making the job of fitting it to Ford donor parts fairly simple. This leaves plenty of scope for a spaghetti dogs breakfast when connecting Ford wire colours from donor bits to VG wire colours which use a different system.

 

VG white wire is ignition live, connect to coil pos. VG white/black is rev counter feed, connect to coil neg. Ford black wire from dizzy may need extending and connects to coil neg. The points earth through the dizzy body, block and back to the battery neg.

 

The VG white/black from the coil neg dissapears into the loom and runs up to the instrument cluster. It is shown on the VG loom diagram as the second to bottom in the list of connections as connecting to a Ford white/black from the instrument cluster plug. However the Ford white/black is the left indicator. The VG white/black should connect to a Ford green wire from the instrument cluster plug. And Fanny's yer maiden aunt.

 

Nigel

[itllbedonesoon]

Bonza!!!!

 

ok, welding gauntlets on, painting mask on and a pair of ski goggles and hopefully i will try to turn the engine on this weekend

[Guest salty_monk]

Vicky Green has a lot to answer for.... Who the hell was she anyway, Richard's squeeze??

[itllbedonesoon]

Ok, so the dizzy and the wiring are in, turn the ignition and nothing happens I have tested the starter as per Haynes instructions and direct battery feeds, that is all ok. I have got the multimeter out and my earth circuit seems ok through the chassis and when i turn the ignition on the earth comes alive at the starter solenoid but nothing happens., I think my problem is in the +ve side of the circuit and may come back to the dizzy wiring??

 

I have the dizzy Bk wire to the Coil +ve and the VG white spliced in, the coil -ve to the VG Bk/W.

The only +ve feed i have is from the battery to the starter solenoid, Am i missing a +ve feed into the VG loom (i thought this was the VG white/Red from the solenoid spade terminal to ignition) or am i suppose to have a +ve feed direct battery to coil (and therefor through the VG white to the ignition)?

 

or am i getting myself totally confused?

sorry if this is a bit long but i have tried to give as much info as i can. if this makes sense to anyone please help?

[Longboarder]

This could cause premature ageing and a small fire but there is a brown that connects the battery pos to the short length of red wire on ignition switch terminal 15. From the switch you then have a short length of blue/black which connects to the red/white and goes to the starter solenoid and blue yellow which connects to the white, powers the loom and also the fuse box.

Dizzy black wire goes to coil negative (intermitently connects the coil through the points in the dizzy and into the block to earth in time with the engine rotation. Makes and times the spark). VG white to coil pos (live when ignition is on). VG white/black from coil neg, into the loom and thus out to rev counter.

Once you connect these wires all sorts of dangling ends become live and will short out all over the place if not connected to their targets or insulated.

It's not a good idea to trial run the engine until a few other things like the oil pressure light, temp sensor, rev counter, alternator etc are hooked up.

 

Nigel

[itllbedonesoon]

Cheers again,

 

Doing this from memory at work, last night is a blur of wires and frustration. I will have to check which way i have the dizzy and the VG white & white/Bk connected.

 

I have most things connected up, fuel sender, dash console, oil pressure, temp sensors everything except the lights and I have the later version instruments that require the relays (to which the VG supplied relays did not mach the numbers listed on the VG loom sheet, I guessed they have the same physical lay out as 1 pin on the relay is horizontal and 3 vertical). The light wires are left disconnected with the wired ends insulated so nothing crosses.

 

But even as i turn the key 1 click for the elecrtics nada happens, no sound of the fuel pump priming, no dash response nothing. Turn the key to engage the stater and again, silence. I will double check how i have the dizzy and those you have listed wired up. (i am going to print off the whole conversation chain this time).

 

I was getting no readings from the multimeter from the white connection to the ignition switch with the key in any position.

 

Must avoid a fire at all costs or i will end up commiting Hari Kari. thanks again for your input.

[Longboarder]

Check negative side of the battery. You should have big fat black wire, 1. Neg batt to chassis, 2. Neg battery to engine or bellhousing. Nice to have a third from chassis to bellhousing just for luck.

 

With your multimeter check you have a constant supply from batt pos to pin 15 on the ignition switch. You can run this through a big fuse or circuit breaker (I used 60 amp) as insurance. If terminal 15 has a supply then Yellow out (radio) should be live in key position 1, Blue/Yellow out live in position two (all ignition live components through VG white wire, Blue/Black out live in position 3 (VG white/red to solenoid for cranking).

 

Assuming you have power to terminal 15, then if you don't get power out through the yellow, blue/yellow and blue black with they key in positions 1,2,and 3 then you have a duff ignition switch.

 

I have to confess possible memory failure here as I don't have my Haynes wiring diagrams with me in Oz and I might have mixed up the blue/black and blue/yellow. I also remember that some early versions of the VG loom had the wrong instructions or crossed wires at this point also and some people connected up using the instructions only to find positions 2 and 3 swopped with cranking in position 2.

 

Nigel