Hub Nuts

[Jon Bradbury]

Apologies to Jim Stott on this one - I already asked this on the old forum but cannot find the thread. That poxy NG thing.... oh well, here goes.

 

I cannot seem to find in the Haynes manual which way round the rear hubs should go. The thing is, they're designed to have the nuts turning the same way on both sides to tighten up. Get them the wrong way round and you could end up with the nuts falling off as you're driving down the road. So I am asking here...

 

It occurrs to me that they should rotate the same way as the front hub nuts. I marked all those parts on disassembly so they should be correctly oriented.

 

I guess I just need reassuring on this one.

 

Thanks

 

JonB

[Guest petrie51]

Hi Jon

Rear hubs and drive/shafts are different lengths so can only fit one way.

Andy

[Jon Bradbury]

I knew that. However, its the driveshafts that are different, not the hub carriers. You could easily swap the carriers round by mistake (as I may have done) and be none the wiser. Bear in mind that i've had the whole thing apart to fit new bearings, and that includes separating the driveshafts from the hubs.

 

Cheers

 

JonB

[Guest Feek]

But if you haven't had the actual tripod joints on the driveshaft ends apart (my assumption!) then aren't the threads at the end effectively "part of each driveshaft"?

 

In other words, you can whip the bearing carriers off, change bearings, etc., and not worry about your nuts (in a manner of speaking...)?

 

Did that make sense? It's a long time since I did this, so I could be utterly wrong of course.

[Guest Ant]

To answer your question, I believe (from memory) that the passenger side has a left hand thread. I know that this is quoted under driveshaft removal in the haynes manual. You might want to check there before trying to fit them.

 

Ant

[Jon Bradbury]

No, feek, they are not.

 

This is a 2.0 DOHC donor with the rear disc brakes by the way.

 

The driveshaft has a CV joint at both ends and is secured by six allen bolts at both ends. This means they can be detached independently of the rest of the rear suspension without any other dismantling.

 

So whilst its true the driveshafts cannot be put back on the wrong side (being different lengths), you can swap the hub carriers round if you want.

 

Cheers

 

JonB

[Guest Ant]

Sorry - didn't know you were on a disk rear system. I've had no dealings with those. Doesn't haynes tell you how to identify the sides? Failing that try chatting to someone at your local ford garage.

[Guest TerryBarry]

On the rear hubs the left hand hub (nearside) has the left hand thread.

This applies to both disc and drum brakes.

This is mentioned in Haynes Ch 11 Section 14 Rear Wheel Bearings.

Terry

[Guest Feek]

Sorry - yes, I too was thinking of drums not discs... I can see what you mean now!

 

None of these posh modern rear disc brake things on my vintage 2.0 Sierra donor!

[Guest daveg]

All

 

I can also confirm the nearside has the odd tread (i.e. left hand tread or anti-clockwise to do up)

 

Dave

[Guest DaveB]

Hi Jon

 

Read your post last night and realised I had not torqued mine up yet but I do know they are definitely on the right sides the left after checking hand thread should be on the passenger side.

 

I don't know about you but I am from the old school were we spoke of offside and nearside of the car. I see all too often the left or right side of the car listed are we looking from the front or the back I believe we are looking from the back why not sick to nearside and offside. I suppose it has something to do with them Euro bods who drive on the wrong side of the road.

 

Cheers

 

 

Dave

[Jon Bradbury]

Yes, Dave, I do use "offside" and "nearside" quite often (as you'll probably have seen in some of my other posts), but for the benefit of those without the experience of the terms I sometimes use "driver's side" and "passenger's side" instead. I think its like spelling - its not important how you say something in a post, but rather that you effectively communicate to your intended audience the essence of what you are trying to say. Phew. That was a long sentence. I hope its not obvious that I did an A-level in Communication Studies...

 

Thanks to everyone who answered this question. I tried to find it in the Haynes manual, honest...

 

One more thing, Dave - how do you intend to torque your hub nuts up? They need something like 320 lbs / foot. You'd need some pretty serious leverage to do that! Obviously I'm thinking that I'll have to do the same thing myself and worrying.

 

Cheers

 

JonB

[Guest Petemate]

Hi Jon

Long bar, tight as you can and three grunts. Wheels on the deck, front or rear against a wall depending on which side you are tightening.

Or you could hire the appropriate torque wrench, still using a wall. (As the cars are somewhat lighter than the donor, the wheels tend to spin on the ground when subjected to such torque, whether it be from a socket or the engine! )

Pete(Oldgit)

[Guest TerryBarry]

How to apply 320 lbs.ft torque

You need a length of scaffold pole, steel tape measure, bathroom scales and a calculator.

Weigh self, calculate where to stand on pole to exert necessary force.

I helped repair some agricultural equipment this weekend - that's how it was done

 

Terry

[Guest DaveB]

Hi Jon

 

Nice to see theres still someone who things the old way, as for the torque setting I borrowed a .75" drive 4' long torque wrench from a mobile lorry mechanic down the road. Of course you could take a spring balance attach it to the end of 4' lever and pull until you reach 40lbs, that was how I intended to do it until I got talking to this guy in the pub

 

Cheers

 

Dave