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Caster Angle Not Right


Guest Gavlar

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Guest Gavlar

Hello Folks,

 

I seem to be running into one issue after another but I am in this for the long run so am determined to get this right.

 

The caster angle on the Near Side front appears to be negative, slightly tilted towards the back of the car, but the Off Side appears to be almost up right bordering positive, leaning forwards.

 

It has a GBS type wishbone setup on the 2b and the wishbones appear to be the same length.

 

Is it possible that the hubs are not the same in that they have different caster angles set? I'd hate to think that I have got a car with a twisted chassis as I'd be xxxx'd .

 

Any help on this would be appreciated.

 

Regards

 

Gavlar.

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Manufacturing tolerances and build can have an effect on castor. Positioning of the wishbone brackets on the chassis and the build of the wishbones particularly. Position of the top hat can also make a big change to appearance of castor. First thing I would do is make sure the top hats position is matched left and right and then get castor, camber and toe properly measured to see if your impressions are born out by the figures. Then report back.

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Guest Gavlar

Thanks for the quick response.

 

"First thing I would do is make sure the top hats position is matched left and right" - How is this achieved. I just thought they slot into the hub carrier. I have measured the height of each of them and they appear equal.

 

I do hope it is just the positioning as you say.

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look directly down from the top. The hole for the top ball joint is offset.

Twisting it will affect camber and or caster, just make sure they are located

identically left & right.

Also I believe that spacing washers can be fitted to the U brackets to move the entire wishbone back

or forwards.

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also note in Longboarders pic that you need to ensure the angle of the hole the balljoint goes into is pointing down towards the car. I.e the top of the hole is further from the car than the bottom of the hole. If you don't the balljoint will run out of movement when the suspension drops and risks snapping it off. if that makes sense.

 

Also check that at full droop the shock should be stopping the arm dropping any further not the balljoint.

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Guest Gavlar

Ah. Now I get it. Thank you, gentlemen, for the input. The suspension shall be stripped tomorrow lets see if this is the case.

 

Virtual beers on me.

 

Gavlar

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Guest Gavlar

So I have just had another look at the suspension. Seems that the top hats have been welded into place?

 

I can't seem to take a photo that is small enough in size to show, 100kb limit is on for me at the moment.

 

 

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The "top hat" (dummy strut) fits through the hub carrier and is clamped in place by a large bolt which has to be slackened to turn the dummy strut. The top hat is made from 2 pieces welded together, that's probably the weld that you can see. On my 3A I've fitted a safety bolt into the strut just in case the main bolt comes loose!

 

post-11418-0-92065800-1526670954_thumb.jpg

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