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itllbedonesoon

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About itllbedonesoon

  • Birthday 08/31/1977

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    RH 2b+ 2.0ltr Pinto
  • Full name
    john latue

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  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Grantham
  • Interests
    taking on challenges with out fully comprehending the gravity of what's involved.

itllbedonesoon's Achievements

Getting there Builder

Getting there Builder (3/6)

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  1. I think its a Webber 26/30 DFTH....got it from a scrap yard as it matched the bolt pattern on my manifold. I know its a small venturi but hopefully it will get me running. The pinto is running although idling very fast at the moment. I am currently checking for vacuum leaks and if that doesnt work I am going to try to retard the points dizzy a bit. I wanted to check that mysterious connection was not the reason I had a high idle speed. It is currently not connected to anything but the engine starts no problem, its just too eager. Any thoughts would be appreciated on this. thank you
  2. Sounds important, should this be connected to something? Because I do not have an ECM module or anything to connect it to? should I have posted this in electrics section of the forum!!
  3. Hi, Please could someone let me know what the electrical connector on the right hand side on the picture is for. Not the connection for the electric choke but there is another electrical connector that I have no idea what it is for? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
  4. Hi, Thank you, wiggling and pushing did not work unfortunately and I have not been able to get the time to try disconnecting the gearbox end yet, but hopefully I will be able to soon. Fingers crossed.
  5. Hello All, I have a MT75 gearbox and the matching speedo cable and clocks all of the same donor. It is fitted at the gearbox end and circlipped in place, however at the clocks end the cable will not connect. I have rotated the shaft on the clock connector so the square feed goes into the clock but no matter how much force is applied the cable will not go far enough onto the connection to allow the plastic clip to engage. With the amount of force I don't think the plastic clip would hold it anyway. Something is definitely not right....anyone any ideas please???
  6. Thank you for all the advice, I started again but this time starting from the fuse distribution terminal as you advised and followed that wire. It forked and I disconnected one of the forks further along the loom and checked for grounding on all the connections. It was grounding down the other branch, I followed this wire and it took me to the car horn switch in the steering wheel. The wire was grounding where is passes past the dash board and lies on top of the steering column and key barrel Ha ha!!! and unfortunately also the car horn was busted. I have ordered a new car horn and sorted out the grounding. So all good. I tested the horn circuit wiring in a bulb in place of the broken horn, all good and the wiper motor still works and no blown fuse! Although now my indicators have stopped working, I have hazards but no indicators. So I will try to look at this tomorrow. Thank you for sorting out my blown fuse as I have no idea with electrics and did not even know where to start.
  7. ok, I checked the blue/green from the wiper motor tracing back to the column switches. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on the circumstances) there is no bulkhead to transition between the wiper motor and the column switches and the loom is partially encased in ribbed sheathing (or was until i pulled it apart) so it would struggle to ground unless off another wire. While checking the wire I did a continuity check from the blue/green to earth and it was not showing as grounding. I checked the other wires from the wiper motor for grounding using continuity and the 12v live feed was earthing. This comes in to the wiper on a green from the VG loom and green I believe is pretty much the live circuit for all the ancillaries! I checked separately the washer bottle, foot brake switch and wiper motor and all were showing as grounding. I started tracing the green and low and behold, hidden in the tape in the loom it joined a cluster where it seems all the green wires in the loom are interconnected. I started separating them 1 at a time until I lost the earthing. I traced this green wire to the sierra instrument cluster. When I disconnect the green from the instrument plug connector, I lose the grounding in the the green wires. I disconnected the plug from the instruments and tested with continuity to earth all the wires. About 10 of the 12 are showing as grounding. However, now I am getting lost from seeing the forest because of all the trees, I guess a circuit has to ground at some point to complete the circuit back to the battery. I am worried now that the wires out of the instrument cluster are the return wires that is why so many of them are grounding with a continuity test even with the plug disconnected. I also tested the problem 15amp fuse terminals (with the instrument plug disconnected so my green circuit is not grounding) and the distribution terminal of the fuse is still showing as grounding. So this leads me to believe: 1. the grounding is not in the green circuit supply to the wiper motor. 2. It might be a fried column switch which is why so many circuits on the instrument panel appear to be grounding. 3. continuity testing to earth on the various circuits was not the right thing to do and I have confused myself. My bets are on No.3. I ran out of time but will try disconnecting the column switches and see how that affects the grounding on the instrument cluster connector and then I am out of ideas...
  8. Thank you for the responses: The wiper motor is from a land rover i think, it is a lucas 5 pin worm drive gear type. It does not look like the connector comes off it appears attached to the wiper motor. I have tested the connections with a multimeter, Fuse supply terminal to earth = 12.57volts Fuse distribution terminal to earth = 0 volts I then disconnected the battery (as I read you are not suppose to check resistance on a live circuit?) connected the red multi meter to the fuse distribution terminal. all tests were done at the 200 ohm setting on the multi meter: fuse supply to earth = infinite fuse distribution to earth = 0.89 Column switches disconnected, connecting the distribution fuse terminal to the column switches connector wire as follows: Indicators & dip switch side to 54 = infinite to R = 0.90 to 30H = 0.2 X to 49 = infinite to L = 0.9 to 49a = infinite to 31 = 0.9 to 56a = infinite to 56b = infinite to 56 = infinite Wipers and lights switch side to 56 = infinite to 53.2 = 18.1 to 58 = 1.2 to 53c = 0.3 31b.2 = 18.1 to W = 0.4 to 30 = infinite to 53a = infinite 31b.1 = infinite 53 = infinite 54 = 18.3 53b = infinite Then testing the wiper motor wire with the column switches still disconnected: Earth = 0.3 Park = infinite fast = infinite 12v supply = 18.2 slow = infinite Unfortunately with very limited electrical experience I do not know how to interpret the figures as there seems to be varying readings in each column connector group and also up to the wiper supply wire? Thank you in advance for any further advice,
  9. Hi, When reconnecting my wiper motor I did not connect the live feed correctly, it came off at some point and shorted with one of the other terminals on the wiper motor or on the wiper body. Problem now is the 15 amp fuse on the loom keeps blowing every time I try to reconnect the battery. I am guessing the short from the wiper motor has done some damage somewhere creating a short to earth. I have the VG loom, which came with a 4 fuse holder, this is the 15 amp that keeps blowing. There are 3 relays and a 3 pin ford flasher unit. With the battery connected and no fuse I am getting constant live 12v to one side of the fuse with the ignition off. When I go to ignition 2 (15 amp fuse missing) I am getting no power to the sierra dash lights, the hazards don't work, wiper does not work. headlights do work. I have no idea how to find where the short is or how to go about tracing it through the myriad of wires under the dash. Can anyone please suggest a possible way to locate the problem (apart from looking in a mirror)? Thank you
  10. mine are the ends with the 'V' tabs also. Thanks for the link, those gaitors seem pretty universal and lots of fords in the compatability list. Will go for them. Cheers all.
  11. Hi all, Does anyone know what type of track rod ends were used on the 2b as i need to get some new gaiters? 1 of the gaiters has split. The ones i have were new from richard back in the day. are they sierra ones? cheers
  12. Hi all, Just a quick question, can i cut the mini style 'wiper motor wire bit thingy' (think its called a worm gear)? or will it unravel once i trim the end off, as it is far too long to run out under the bonnet. thanks
  13. thank you, thank you, thank you! The wiring was correct as per your original instruction, cheers Jez. The wiper motor was working, cheers Longboarder. It was a lack of power to the black/violet on the switches. thanks again Jez. (i had mixed up the green and the light green/black on the VG side going through the connectors onthe way to the switches. shhh... dont tell anyone). cheers John
  14. also, just looking at longboarders diagrams on the NW site, i dont have my washer bottle connected up, does this matter?
  15. Thanks Jez, unfortunately no joy, nothing happened. i tried it on fast slow and intermitent and got nothing on any of them. i also tried it with the motor casing earthed, nothing at all. As i was unsure of which way round to put the connections to the motor internal pin connections, i tried swapping the VG wires over on your listed pins 2 and 4 and ended up immediately blowing a fuse. Just to check i am not being an eedyit, i have only tried it with the ignition in position 2, so the elctrics are on. i am getting a live feed on the VG green but will the circuit work in ign position 2 or do i need to start the engine? if so, i guess: 1 - the wiper motor is duff (it is brand new) 2 - i still dont have the correct wiring 3 - i have a prob in the VG loom and/or stalk. 1 - Can anyone advise on how to test the wiper motor? Without knowing the wiper motor pin configuration i guess it is hard to, but if someone can advise how, i can give it a go. 2 - can the pins be identified by their continuity or resistance across the wiper motor? i have continuity across 2 pins and then seperately across 3 pins, with the 3 pins showing different levels of resistance between the 3, if this helps? 3 - when the system is live but not connected to the wiper motor, should i be getting live feeds on the VG slow and fast wires when i click the stalk or does everything need to be connected to make the circuit work? I have definately got live and earth on the VG side, should i be getting live readings from the other wires? cheers John
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