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IanS

RHOCaR Member
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IanS last won the day on March 8

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About IanS

  • Birthday 04/05/1952

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  • Car type
    exmo
  • Full name
    Ian Sumner

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    Male
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    Warrington

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  1. Family birthday precludes attendance. Everyone else have a good trip.
  2. Back in the day.. Fuel guages were a hot wire movement where the electric current heated a wire in the guage which warmed it up and thus it got longer which was used to move the needle. It takes time to warm the wire so the gauge is said to be damped. You would switch the ignition on and the needle would creep up over a couple of seconds. Now guages are moving coil and react very quickly. Guage reading full when empty and empty when full is down to the sender in the tank and idealy should be fixed there. Modern cars drive the guage as a stepper motor system with all the damping done is software in the ECU. If you want to try a capacitor then https://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufm1v102/capacitor-radial-1000uf-35v/dp/CA07431 might work, I have not tried this myself, connect the negative contact to ground and the positive to the wire from the sender to the guage. This can be done on the back of the guage.
  3. First your problem is probably not having a damped guage rather than the sender. As you drive the fuel sloshes about and a fast acting guage jumps all over the place as the float moves with the waves. The sender to me looks like a modified sierra sender. The sierra one has a 3 pin socket and an earth tag, this appears to have been replaced with a single connection. The 3 connections were 2 variable connections 1 to the guage and the other to the optional MPG computer fitted to top spec cars, the 3rd contact was a simple on/off to a low fuel light. Robin Hood fuel tank is rectangular stainless and fitted across the back of the car and could hold just about 30 liters not all useable as he flat bottom leaves several liters sloshing round after the pickup sucks air. Also the sierra unmodified filler neck sticks quite a way into the tank and if no provision for the air getting out has been provided this prevents the tank beeing fiilled to the brim. The second pipe is intended as a fuel return not a vent. I hope that this helps.
  4. What you have got depends on the builder. RH showed how to cut down and weld the sierra wiper system. But most prefered to fit the Lucas system as fitted to BMC / AustinRover cars from 1960s onwards.
  5. As I see it there are 4 posibilities. 1 pump fitted wrong way round and is pumping from engine to tank. 2 no petrol in tank. 3 blockage. 4 dead pump. I am hoping that you have already checked 1 & 2. If you disconnect the outlet from the pump does fuel flow? If it does blockage in line to engine. Otherwise blockage between tank and pump. Did you use PTFE tape around the right angle connections as this can block the connection. Dirt in the system can also cause blockage by stoping the non return working I do not see any filter in the system. Fingers crossed that you find the fault. Ian
  6. IanS

    V5

    I went and checked my V5. It shows 6 former keepers. As I bought the doner sierra with 6 former keepers and then used it to build my Exmo, which I still have, it appears that you inherit former keepers with the doner.
  7. Well done Jan. As an Exmo builder and owner from batch 2 I realy like your efforts. Ian
  8. Would not be the first faulty component I have come across and then spent futile hours chaseing other posible causes. If it is the only thing on that fuse it is faulty. OR the wire downstream of the fuse has an intermittant short that is masked at 25A by thin wire upstream not passing the current. Try running a test wire from the battery fitted with a 5 A fuse direct from the battery to the pump. If the fuse does not blow then you have a wiring fault, if it does blow the pump is faulty.
  9. 25A fuse is stupidly large if it is just for a fuel pump. That is 300W or nearly 1/2HP just to move a few cc per minute of petrol. I presume that you are running carbs. Facet state that thier low pressure pumps take 1.4A average and should be fused at 5A. Some of thier cylindrical pumps use the mounting bolts to provide the negative connection. 1sq mm wire should be good.
  10. There were many versions of the pinto e.g early ones were points based ignition later ones were EFI with electronic ignition ones inbetween. They all have the same bolt pattern to the gearbox and engine mounts in the same place. There are several carbs fitted so ideally you want the manifold for the carb for your engine and for the carb to be jetted for that engine. Of course if you are going EFI you need all the EFI bits for the 2.0pinto. 1.6 came in long stroke and short stroke versions, the long stroke is the same deck hight as the 2.0 the short stroke is a bit lower deck hight but should not cause problems I cannot rember what the difference is but 2cm comes to mind. So it should be a relative easy swap. Clutch and flywheel should come with the new engine.
  11. Check earth strap from engine back to battery. There could be 2 or 3 straps between battery and engine and chassies before going for a new starter. Check for warm connections between battery and starter on both positive and earth they should be cold imediatly after trying to start for 10 to 15 seconds, if they are warm then you have a suspect connection. Does the car bump start? Final check is the ignition switch but doubt this if battery falling to 7V.
  12. If DIY then I think that the main secret is to use a leather needle in the sewing machine, easily obtainable form most proper haberdasheries. Further with a zip in the roof I have never had much luck with keeping water out with my toneau, it leaks through the zip unless parked perfectly level. I was a scuba diving instructor and used waterproof zips in dry suits which are expensive and delicate if not lubricated correctly. They all come from one factory in Japan even though they have several apparent sources to satisfiy military procurment diversity rules, would you believe that there are 3 seperately owned independant production lines under one roof? Hence the price. I have baulked at the price of the very long waterproof zips given my experiance of thier limited life when abused. How good is your roof zip when stood overnight in rain? I have not had problems with rain coming between screen frame a hood where the hood uses press studs on the front face of the frame, mind you having clam shell front wing might help here as there is less upflow to the top of the screen. Your mileage might vary. I think that the 4 layer construction I have to the front of the hood probably helps here as it keeps some pressure in the contact area from the hood to the screen, you can learn a lot from looking at convertable cars made from the 1930s to the early 1960s. I admire your report and hopes that it encourages others to make thier cars most weather useable. I have driven my car hood up in gale force rain and stayed dry inside.
  13. There can be some nice dry days with the sun out this time of the year perfect for our cars. Great job getting it back.
  14. I cannot open the pictures. As GAZ dampers I would be supprised if the rubber was bonded so grease between rubber and tube.
  15. I have always been of the opinion that if a steel tube is expected to rotate on a bolt shaft it needs lubrication. BUT I also think that the steel tube should be trapped to stop rotation in a rest position as rotation can wear the bolt weakening it a risking catastrophic failure as a tube over a bolt will not have the close tollerance fit required of a bearing thus allowing hammer action in the joint. The poly bush wearing will be progressive so should be caught in time to replace the bush. I await other views.
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