Jump to content


RHOCaR End of Season Bash 

Come and join us for our Annual event  on 14th to 16th September

Camping, Family Fun,  Evening Entertainment and like-minded Company

 

Full Details and entry form here:

http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=46637


 


Photo
- - - - -

Total Disaster


  • Please log in to reply
56 replies to this topic

#46 Thrashed

Thrashed

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 18
  • 760 posts
  • Location:Bromsgrove
  • Car type:zero

Posted 08 May 2017 - 06:39 PM

Dan, that makes sense, just looks more dramatic when its happening and the battery sparking when undoing the terminals, whilst choking on a big cloud of smoke.

 

The net result is better then I could have imagined.

 

I have ordered the new wires, so the next question is........

 

What's the best way to replace the damaged loom? 

 

1 - Cut out old wires and crimp them?  Not my favourite option, but quick and easy.

2 - my personal fav - cut out old wires and solder and heat shrink together.

 

When I do option 2 what is the best way to do this?  Do I twist the old and new together, blob with solder and then heat shrink?  Are there any fancy techniques I can use to give the best possible connection that is strong and reliable?

 

 



#47 brumster

brumster

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 18
  • 1,320 posts
  • Location:Brum (duh)
  • Car type:Zero

Posted 08 May 2017 - 08:54 PM

People find this hard to believe, but crimping is by far the most reliable way of connecting electrics where some movement is expected. I trust the opinion of people far more experienced than I - guys who have crimped touring car looms day in, day out for GT class cars, rally cars and so forth. I think where it falls down for home users is that it's very important that you crimp it properly, with the proper tool... otherwise a bad crimped connection is worse than a soldered one; wrong sized crimp connector for the wire, cheap connectors, wrong tool, badly positioned tool on the connector when the crimp is performed, etc...

 

So I'd go with whatever you feel more comfortable you'll do a good job of. I still solder some connections myself because, let's face it, cramming 20 bullet connectors into a loom just looks plain awful. If you can't put some sort of multiplug in there to join the two parts of the loom, I would just twist the two wires individually, tin them, pop your heatshrink sleeve over, then heat them up and bring them together side-on-side. Don't try to mesh the core strands together; it makes a mess and you get strands sticking out all over the shop and potentially piercing the sleeving and shorting out. Just bring them together side-to-side, solder-to-solder, get a good join on them, then bring the heatshrink over them and shrink it down. Leave plenty of heatshrink overlap so that it tightens up and supports the entire wire where it's been joined.


Edited by brumster, 08 May 2017 - 08:54 PM.


#48 theduck

theduck

    Chairman

  • Admin
  • 3,576 posts
  • Location:Birmingham
  • Car type:Sierra S7

Posted 08 May 2017 - 09:18 PM

I'm sure people better than me will be horrified by this, but I used crimp female spade terminals and solder to join wires. I found you could put a wire in the crimp side but also upto two on the spade side and form a decent crimp and also have a good area to solder to reinforce it.

Used this type though not the insulted ones.

spadeusage.jpg

Edited by theduck, 08 May 2017 - 09:18 PM.


#49 florin metal works

florin metal works

    Hants & Dorset Area Secretary

  • Area Secretary
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,669 posts
  • Location:Salisbury
  • Car type:2B+

Posted 08 May 2017 - 09:27 PM

The heat shrink ratio of shrink would not seal the above, Dan's suggestion is neat but I would twist together first as I don't have 3 hands.



#50 MarkBzero

MarkBzero

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 18
  • 1,563 posts
  • Location:Telford
  • Car type:Zero yellow/stainless - ST170 with twin 45s

Posted 09 May 2017 - 06:46 AM

I used solder and heat shrink in most circumstances but also used connectors to separate the loom in places that may need pulling apart like dashboard or engine loom. Try these, they have a wide range including water proof versions
http://www.autospark...connectors.html

kit car 019.jpg kit car 015.jpg
Dreamed about a kit car for years now it's a reality.

Short build blog - http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=38776&hl= 

First upgrade - http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=44994 


#51 Thrashed

Thrashed

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 18
  • 760 posts
  • Location:Bromsgrove
  • Car type:zero

Posted 09 May 2017 - 07:36 AM

Thanks for the tips everyone. Surprised about the crimps.

Because of the space I don't think having 21 crimps next to each other is going to work. Going to go with the twist solder and shrink method as I am hoping it will have the smallest footprint.

Should have the parts for Wednesday/ Thursday so will keep everyone posted

#52 florin metal works

florin metal works

    Hants & Dorset Area Secretary

  • Area Secretary
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,669 posts
  • Location:Salisbury
  • Car type:2B+

Posted 09 May 2017 - 08:58 AM

Try to stagger where the wires are cut on existing loom --- the soldered joint plus heat-shrink will make for a large bundle if all along-side each other.



#53 mcramsay

mcramsay

    Wheely good builder!

  • Community user
  • 1,788 posts
  • Location:somerset
  • Car type:zero

Posted 09 May 2017 - 09:54 AM

Personally I would use amp superseal connectors ... here's the link on eBay https://www.ebay.co....tm/322483384182

Why because they are 100% waterproof, take up less space than normal crimps ( if you use a couple of 6 way connectors rather than singles) and they disconnect really really easily, all sections of the loom on my car are now modular and connect together, which means I can remove the engine by removing 2 connectors and leave the rest of the loom in the car.

I have the proper crimping tool which I am happy to post of you want to borrow.

#54 Nige2e

Nige2e

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 18
  • 163 posts
  • Location:Leighton Buzzard
  • Car type:2B+ 1.8 CVH IVA & Registered Nov 2013

Posted 09 May 2017 - 11:17 AM

If heat shrink is a bit of a pain and of course it also goes quite stiff when shrunk, you could use self amalgamating tape. very waterproof..

 

 

Nige T



#55 Thrashed

Thrashed

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 18
  • 760 posts
  • Location:Bromsgrove
  • Car type:zero

Posted 09 May 2017 - 11:18 AM

Thanks for the offer Craig.  I have a proper crimp rachet tool, just never felt like a good connection.  I did think about connectors.  I am replacing the standard ones I have on the lights with these and have already ordered the parts to do this.  I currently have just the standard 4 way white plastic black connectors.

 

Because its a Pinto it only has 5 wires attached to the engine, 2 for the dizzy, water temp and 2 for the oil switch.

 

The rest of the loom and mostly what got destroyed are the alternator wiring, lights and indicators and fan.  No real need to have them removable.



#56 Thrashed

Thrashed

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 18
  • 760 posts
  • Location:Bromsgrove
  • Car type:zero

Posted 09 May 2017 - 11:23 AM

Nige, the plan is to replace the 21 wires that have burn through and then re-cover and cable tie the bundle back to the chassis.  As they do not need to move I am hoping the heat shrink will offer a bit more rigidity to the wires.  Might go belts and braces and cover in the tape as suggested before putting back in the convoluted tubing.

 

Also thinking I might run the alternator wire to starter wire away from the other wires, so along with a designed alternator mount to ensure if the engine ever moves up the output can't touch anything and a cut off switch the chance of damage or issues again should be zero.  Well that's the plan!



#57 Thrashed

Thrashed

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 18
  • 760 posts
  • Location:Bromsgrove
  • Car type:zero

Posted 01 June 2017 - 02:38 PM

Just a quick update....

 

That's to Gaz and Bob for their help, but over the bank holiday weekend got the whole thing finished.

 

Replaced and terminated all the burn wires.  The whole process was easier than I imagined to start with as the plan worked first time.

 

Car is now back on the road and made the club meet last night.

 

Thanks for everyone's help and advice.  I will be starting a post on the FIA battery isolator next, so will need a bit more help yet.

 

:drinks: