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Jon Green

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About Jon Green

  • Birthday 06/05/1976

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2b 2lt Pinto, FR33 cam, Dellorto 40's, 120Bhp
  • Full name
    Jon Green

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  • Website URL
    http://www.enjoyyourmeal.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Penny Bridge, Ulverston, Cumbria

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Jon Green's Achievements

Wheely good builder!

Wheely good builder! (4/6)

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  1. Thanks for the responses chaps, I built my car 11 years ago and wired it with the help of my dad who's a sparky. We mostly followed the sierra haynes wiring I think though i'm not entirely sure. I have two relays for the lighting, 1 for the headlamps and the other for main beam. The 3 amp feed to the column stalks feeds; On the wiper side, right : Red pin 30 Black pin 15 On the main beam side, left; Black and Brown pin 15 Haven't got a another 3 amp fuse to hand so i've popped a 20 amp in..... though I will swap it for a 5 amp asap. Nigel, you mention that some of these supply's aren't fused before the the column so should I be leaving the 20 amp fuse in place and adding in some lower amp fuses after the column? And what's the best way to split the lighting feeds up so that I can't have a total failure again? I guess that if I feed my brown / black wire separately I'd at least have a main beam flash even if power to the right-hand side of the column failed? Help appreciated! I'm just getting back into driving my 2b after a extended period of it being laid up due to a baby and associated pressures on time and finances. He's 7 now so it's about time it came out of the garage again!
  2. Hi All, Whilst out for a spin today I switched on my fog light only for it to blow the fuse. Turns out that all my lights were fed through the same 3 amp fuse so they were all lost. Fortunately not a problem as it was only a brief bank of mist. On further investigation tonight I've found that the 3 amp fuse supply's 3 wires in the column switches. A red, a black / brown and a chunky black. They're 1983 sierra stalks. I'm guessing that these live feeds should have separate feeds and fuses so this can't happen? I could have been in the s**t if it'd been dark! Jon
  3. Jon Green

    No Spark

    No points arf, I used to but changed to the setup that big jim recommended. Think i'll try and get another coil from the scrapy tomorrow and swap it. Fingers crosses it'll bust into life again. Thanks for all the help chaps.
  4. Jon Green

    No Spark

    I think I've found my coil to be at fault... I took the HT lead out of it and put a spark plug lead with plug into it. Grounded the plug. Removed the negative side wires from the coil and replaced them with a wire which I tapped the negative terminal on the battery with. NO spark. Ignition was turned on and there was 12v on the positive side of the coil. Anyone able to confirm or call me an idiot for believing the coil to be at fault now? Unfortunately I've not got a spare to test with. Thanks, Jon
  5. Jon Green

    No Spark

    As far as I am aware I don't have points. I await correction. ;-)
  6. Jon Green

    No Spark

    Yes the earth is good.
  7. Jon Green

    No Spark

    Hi all, I'm trying to fix a lack of spark... I've got the standard pinto ignition system. I'm not very good on electrics / ignition. So far I have established that there's no spark and 12 v to the + side of the coil. What should I check for next? Thanks Numpty.
  8. Snapperpaul - I've got a 205 block with the injection head fitted, standard cam and currently twin 40's. I'm only after reliability not masses of power really. If I want more power in the future I'd stick a different engine in. I've got a tight budget so the bike carb setup isnt going to happen.
  9. Snapperpaul - I've got a 205 block with the injection head fitted, standard cam and currently twin 40's. I'm only after reliability not masses of power really. If I want more power in the future I'd stick a different engine in. I've got a tight budget so the bike carb setup isnt going to happen.
  10. Still managed 135bhp at the wheels! ;-) What rough cost would a throttle body setup be?
  11. I also have a weber 30/34 dfth which I could use. I've notice that the stud spacing doesn't fit the standard manifold.... what did you do to make it fit?
  12. Jon Green

    38 Dgas Carb

    Hi all, I've been given a weber 38 DGAS off dads Scimitar 3lt V6. Currently I've got dellorto 40's that were rolling road tuned to a FR33 cam I had in. I've ditched the cam now, in favour of the standard one for drivability. The dellorto's are still jetted to the rally cam and it's running far to rich. I'm fed up with the dellorto carbs now and want something less fiddly to set up. My question is, is the 38 DGAS an option (as its free) or should I spend and get something else? cheers Jon
  13. Both changed now. Imbalance was due to a sticky piston. Thanks for the help as always! Jon
  14. Doing a little more research identifying the wheel cylinders I have... the offside (235) cylinder is from the sierra estate and the near side a saloon. As my front brake force was coming in at about 160 per side would you recommend using the estate cylinders and having strong back braking force or the saloon? I guess locking the back wheels before the front isn't good and therefore the saloon cylinder would keep a better balance all round.
  15. Hi all, After three years laid up I've finally got my 2B back on the road... almost! MOT test was today and It failed. Not much really but my back brake drums are out of balance by a lot. nearside = 150 Offside = 235 Apparently on monday this wouldn't have been a failure but new rules mean it is. I've looked at both drums and to be honest they both have new shoes, new disks and leak free cylinders. The only thing I did spot was that the wheel cylinders are slightly different. The offside cylinder was changed at the last mot (4 years ago) due to a leaky cylinder. Is there a chance that the wheel cylinders mismatch is causing the imbalance or are they all the same inside? I'm clueless on hydraulics. Thanks Jon
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