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RevKev

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  • Car type
    Robin Hood 2B
  • Full name
    Kevin Mackenzie

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  • Location
    East Kilbride

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  1. Hi If he engine is low on power it is either going lean (not enough fuel) or going very rich (too much fuel). Have a look at your spark plugs... are they black and sooty which might be a sign of the engine being too rich. Is the float sticking? If it is sticking it could allow the foat chamber to overfill and push too much fuel into the engine. It is more likely that the engine is running lean and losing power. Is the fuel pump failing - maybe a failing pump diaphragm or maybe a choked up fuel filter. The other possibility is an air leak in the inlet manifold gasket or between the carb and manifold. It may not show up at low revs but once the engine is revving and pulling more air any leaks after the carb will upset the mixture. If you have taken the carb off to re-jet it are you sure it is seated properly and the gasket is OK. Check the simple things first and don't spend money on parts until you are sure you have found the problem. Not claiming to be an expert but have a system for checking things and ruling out any potential issues. Kevin
  2. Hi I belive Burton have a table on their website of Ford Pinto engine codes that confirms date of manufacture etc. It might be useful to you to identify the engine. Kevin
  3. RevKev

    bike carbs

    Hi I ended up using a push bike brake cable and filing down the barrel end to fit into the bike carb. Just a bit tedious to do but it works. Sierra pedal has far too much travel for the bike carb set up so you might need to re-drill the pedal closer to the pivot to reduce the amount of travel. Find a way of putting stops on the pedal travel too so you don't over stress the carbs when your size 10's are mashing into the carpet. I also found that the spring return on the bike carbs is not enough to lift the weight of the pedal so put some extra springs on the pedal to return it. It does take time to set all this up but that's what kit cars are about ... finding solutions to problems and once it's done you'll be chuffed and if it breaks you'll know exactly how to fix it. Kevin
  4. RevKev

    Windscreen Glass

    Hi. thanks to you all for your help and advice. Seems the best plan is to fit the windscreen after the IVA. Rev Kev
  5. RevKev

    Windscreen Glass

    Hi One of the issues about picking up abondoned projects is that some stuff might be out of date. I'm wondering if this might be the case with the windscreen glass for my RH 2B. The glass is marked BS857/2 1967 which I believe is a British Standard that is still in use but the IVA manual referrs to E 43R. Is my windscreen glass for the bin or is it still OK for IVA with these older markings? All advice welcome! Rev Kev
  6. RevKev

    Pinto Airbox

    Hi I'm running similar carbs on my 2l Pinto. These tubes are breathers to the float chanbers and need to be open to the atmosphere. They were originally fitted to the air box so I think you are Ok if you are building an air box to connect them up. Just as a side note... if you ever getting a stuck float petrol will pour out of these tubes. This is better than it getting forced past the main needle straight into the manifold. So there can be a plus to not connecting them to the air box. If you are unsure how well theses carbs have been serviced or looked after leave them unconnected to the air box until you feel happy with them. Kevin
  7. RevKev

    General mechanics

    Hi Iain I'm up in sunny East Kilbride. My Mrs comes from Moffat. Small world eh? I'm working on a RH 2B from an abandoned project. Progress is slow but at least it progresses. Not sure I'm in a position to offer spanner time but you're welcome to keep in touch. There is a Scottish Kit Car Club but I've never joined it. This is the place to be if you are looking for helpful advice. Kevin
  8. Hi I have one of these as well. Having removed the PCV valve the elbow will allow you to connect to an oil catch can. What you need is the rubber grommet that fits to the crankcase section in your picture and then the elbow is a push fit into the grommet. No need to remove the crankcase section as it has a little baffle inside that helps prevent oil splashing up. It is also a tapered fitting which the straight sections on the elbow will not seat into. See if there is a grommet on your old PCV valve that you can rescue or failing that try Burton. Of course someone with more knowledge might say I'm totally wrong but that's what I've got on my set up. If I stand to be corrected then both of us have learned something new!!!! Kevin
  9. RevKev

    r1 carbs

    Hi I have the same set up and use individual cone air filters purchased from eBay. Basically dirt bike air filters. i'm not saying they are the best and would love to put on a Pipercross set up but money doesn't allow at the moment. I'll attach a picture later.
  10. Hi If you stil have that Array allow I could be interested in it. Can you send pictures if its still in your possession? Yours Kevin
  11. Perhaps a relay in your electrical system between key and starter solenoid that is sticking.
  12. So... I believe the trick is to go by the dip stick level not the quantity. Too much oil is just as bad as too little. The dip stick may be shortened to go along with the lowered sump. So the Max level is still correct in relation to big end bearings not splashing about in oil as they rotate. So fill it little by little and take a note of how much you have put in then you'll know for next time.
  13. http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/size-radiator-need-car/ HI In the same position as yourself building a 2B. It seems many use the rad from a 1litre Polo and going by the calculations on the above link its about right. It helps to install at an angle / reclined to improve airflow contact with the cooling fins and if you can fit shrouds to channel air flow through the rad rather than letting air bypass it that will help too. A big heater for the cockpit doesn't go wrong either. Kevin
  14. Hi Guys So you know what it's like when you pick up someone else's half finished project... not everything is as it should be. I'm currently building up the front end of my 2B and to save some work bought the front wing supports from GBS to fit the original Array alloys with an ET15 offset. Now that I'm actually fitting the wheels the tyre rubs agains the wing support but only just. I suspect the tyre size is a little over ambitious at a 205/50 R15. What was originally intended for the 2B was it a 195/50 or 195 /45? A smaller tyre size seems the easiest solution and as what's currently on the rims is 20 years old I'd probably need to scrap them anyway. Any good advice is welcome Kevin
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