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Hi all,

Just after a bit of help if possible as i'm at the stage in my zetec converion where i need to sort out the cooling

 

Planning to use the set up as per http://www.toyne.org.uk/docs-cooling.html

 

Couple of questions though

 

Do i need a expansion tank, my radiator has a cap that so never had one when running a pinto?

 

What is the side exit pipe?

 

The long aluminium pipe, what diameter have people used, and how long is long?

 

Thanks for any advice.....trying to get it right first time!

 

Simon

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Guest Alan_builder

Hi all,

Just after a bit of help if possible as i'm at the stage in my zetec converion where i need to sort out the cooling

 

Planning to use the set up as per http://www.toyne.org...cs-cooling.html

 

Couple of questions though

 

Do i need a expansion tank, NO that is now called a header tank which you need, my radiator has a cap that so never had one when running a pinto?

 

What is the side exit pipe? You need to read the blog. I think you will find it is on the thermostat housing, the big pipe.

 

The long aluminium pipe, what diameter have people used, and how long is long? This runs over the top of the exhausts so the flexible pipes don't melt. so that makes it about 12" or 300 mm minimum, keep the pipe the same diameter as the big outlet on the thermostat housing.

 

Thanks for any advice.....trying to get it right first time!

 

Simon

 

Your header tank should be the highest item in the system and the small pipe from the bottom of the header tank should feed the lowest part of the water system, it need not be the radiator.

The thermostat housing top small pipe should rise to the top of the header tank.

You can fit a very high pressure cap to your radiator, or just a blanking cap and seal off the adjacent small outlet pipe.

The high end of the heater is fed from the thermostat and the low end of the heater feeds the bottom of the water system.

The system is filled and toped up via the cap on the header tank.

 

So why don't you join RHOCAR it is only £15 or £16 by Paypal and you can get discount on your build insurance and road insurance. greater than the membership fee!

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Then use this diagram instead. The warm up by-pass is important as you want to avoid hot spots with an ally head on a cast iron block. The zetec stat varies flow via rad and bypass to maintain operating temperature once engine is hot.

 

Nigel

post-21-0-17574800-1337641846_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to order the water pipes so just to clarify before i do

 

Upper hose - does this need the alluminum tube i have seen in some diagrams or can it be pure silicone?

Lower hose - All silicone but does split, is there a standard part for this that you know of, ie the zetec hoses, or should i be able to easily find this?

Block off one side of thermostat - should be easy

Overflow bottle - prsume a camping flask or similar

 

Thanks for the help

Simon

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I used 35mm copper pipe from my local plumber to make both the upper and lower hoses with a short length of rubber from the zetec at each end. Easy to put in a 35/35/15 T piece to connect the warm-up bypass.

Cap the heater outlet on the stat housing. That's the one on the drivers side.

Overflow bottle can be anything as long as the hose goes almost to the bottom and it must have a small vent hole in the lid.

If you had a heater and were using the driverside take-off from the stat you might have to put in an 8mm hole flow reducer in the heater circuit. You can get too much flow through the heater missing out the rad, resulting in overheating when under stress, like on the rollers. Using the proper warm-up bypass on the passenger side take-off from the stat and no heater doesn't give this problem so no flow reducer is needed.

 

Nigel

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Evening all,

 

Just about to make the plunge and buy my water hoses but thought i'd check on here if anyone can advise a cheaper way of doing things. For the whole lot i'm looking at 100 quid

 

Plan is as per the above post by Nigel but only using rubber hose rather than alloy sections, but all in all the price is sent skywards by the joiners and reducers.

 

So - 32mm from radiator to 32mm - 38mm reducer and then onto a 38mm T section to water pump

25mm from T to stat

32mm to 32mm - 38mm reducer to stat

 

Not sure if this will work but attached is a shopping basket, if you have any comments let me know

 

Thanks

Simon

Shopping Basket AP Motor Store.htm

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Guest Alan_builder

Oh no! =@

You need the alloy section over the exhaust pipe to stop the silicone pipe from degrading.

 

Buy one piece from AP and get a 15% discount on your 2nd order.

 

Using the design forwarded by Nigel you may get an airlock in the thermostat housing as I expect that to be higher than the top of your radiator. The thermostat housing has a breather pipe, take this to the top of your header tank and feed the bottom of the header tank to the 19mm pipe going from the thermostat housing to water pump. It can join this pipe any where along its length, though it is usual to take it to the lowest point.

 

Your pipe sizes look odd, my blacktop has 35 mm pipe for the water pump entry, so I don't see why you have 38 mm as I expect the silvertop to be the same.. The thermostat hpusing has 32mm but what your radiator is I don't know.

 

PS your shopping bag came up empty when I opened it!

:acute:

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Evening,

 

Thanks for the help above! Attached are some pics.....comments welcome, especially if it looks completley wrong

 

1. Top hose, just misses exhaust

2. Bottom hose from rad

3. Bottom hose with T section - will be connected with tube

4. Back of stat

 

Thanks

Simon

 

http://s1168.photobucket.com/albums/r481/1186497/

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Using the design forwarded by Nigel you may get an airlock in the thermostat housing as I expect that to be higher than the top of your radiator. The thermostat housing has a breather pipe, take this to the top of your header tank and feed the bottom of the header tank to the 19mm pipe going from the thermostat housing to water pump

On my car the stat housing is about four inches below the rad cap. I don't use the stat bleed as I wanted a simple spit and suck overflow tank using a single pipe from the rad filler to a tank. Effectively self bleeding. Always full rad. I even take the main pipe from stat to top of rad down 8 inches below the exhaust pipes without any issues. I get the impression that the zetec pumps its water so strongly that airlocks are not an issue except with a remote stat like the raceline rail. I have run this system for 6 years with silvertop, blacktop and currently with ST zetec. Admittedly I use the first pic I posted in this thread as I have a heater and I slightly changed the circulation of the heater so it returns not direct to the bottom hose but through the water/oil cooler sandwiched between the filter and the block and then into the bottom hose. I suspect this bit is a waste of time and effort and I should have just junked the oil cooler but it comes with all ST zetecs so I thought why not? Used as my everyday driver all last year so reliable. New pic of mine below to include the oil cooler and dropped route for the main upper rad hose. Maybe you shouldn't be able to do that but it works fine.

 

 

Nigel

post-21-0-30262200-1338928821_thumb.jpg

post-21-0-12934500-1338929943_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 years later...
Guest Dave Skirrow

Hi,

 

I'm planning to use a spit/suck system with no heater for simplicity. If I go with the the below diagram, and my rad cap is below the stat will I run into problems with air locks?

 

Cheers

Dave

 

post-21-0-17574800-1337641846.jpg

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DSC_0092_zpsrm57wncp.jpgDSC_0094_zps8xmjfalr.jpgputting a zetec into a 2b how have you over come the thermostat housing against the chassis I had use the retro ford water rail it was expensive but solved a lot of problems

Edited by tractor
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