Sump Protector

[Guest paisesmediterraneos]

Hello, I am David from Spain,I have a 2B with 2.0 Pinto engine.

Here in Spain we have a lot of elevated platforms in the streets for the cars not to speed. Some times I touched them with the sump. Did any of you build a sump protector for the 2B?, I would like to build one but I don't know wich form and material would be better and where to fix it.

Thank you very much, best wishes from Spain.

[tractor]

yes you can add a sump gaurd but wouldnt it be better to get the sump higher and out of the way you can raise the engine or change the sump to a winged sump

[Guest paisesmediterraneos]

I cannot raise the engine because the camshaft cover plug is only two or three milimeters from the bonnet, the sump was cutted and weldened to make it shorter by the previous owner,so...I think the only option I have is to build a sump guard.

[fry61]

3mm plate with front & rear bent at a slight upward angle, fixed to the block ( there are usually spare tapped holes ) & the flywheel cover with angle brackets. Fit with a dense foam between sump & guard so there are no gaps for a stone to lodge in. We have worn holes in Florin's guard from contact with speed bumps & rocks in the road, but have avoided damage to the oil pan.

[cb750]

I raised my engine by fitting a low profile filler cap and fitting the breather pipe to the back of the cam cover. I also fitted a sump guard using 6mm aluminium chequer plate. I've left a gap between the guard and sump to let air flow over the sump to aid cooling.

[Guest paisesmediterraneos]

Thank you very much Bob and Robert. Do you have a photo of the sump guards you made??.

Must I fix it to the block (using the same bolts that fix the sump) or must I fix it to the chassis??.Is is better to use steel or aluminium plate??.

Thank you again??

[fry61]

As said there are usually spare tapped holes in the sides of the block ( M10 on our CVH block ) & steel will slide more easily over masonry than aluminium; we used 3mm stainless steel because that was in stock ( A common reason for metal choice ) Would not even consider using the sump bolts as fixing points as these are only M6 I think.

Space between plate & sump or none --- you pays your money & takes your choice -- 2 options above & both have merits.IMO

[cb750]

Mines on a 3A chassis. Couldn't find any suitable free holes on the pinto to mount it so it bolts to the beam that links the two tie rods. The rear edge pushes against an angle bolted to the bell housing with rubber between them. Couldn't bolt the guard at the rear because the engine twists slightly on its mountings.

 

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[Guest paisesmediterraneos]

Thank you again.

[Derek]

I used 6mm aluminum chequer plate the front and sides bent up and bolted to the front and sides of the plough ( that's the chassis rail that goes around the side and front of the sump).

The plough has some spring in it so a hard impact would be absorbed slightly.

 

Just a note ...... if you use bolts underneath they would need to be countersunk into the guard because the heads would wear off first.