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Series 7 Windscreen Frame


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Have just taken my windscreen frame off prior to getting some new glass and found not surprisingly that it has been bodged together. The u shaped piece had a couple of rusty screws driven through at an angle in to the ends of the bottom rail, one of which had missed completely so that it was unattached at one end.

There is very little metal to aim at due to the thickness of the frame and the proximity of the glass but there must be a better way. Also the frame itself was fixed to the supports by some very tiny self tappers for the same reasons, although they were still tight and had done the job so far.

How have other people done theirs?

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I used a small strip of stainless to join the side of the frame to the bottom rail and a blob of sikaflex to locate it properly .

I just used ground off stainless/galvanised selftappers to attach the frame to the supports as per RH instructions with threadlock.

Still holding after 15 years.

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So it was just stuck on with the silkaflex and no screws? I suppose it can't go anywhere once fitted. That is the sort of low tech solution I like. Still enjoying the engine bob, haven't pushed anywhere near it's rev limit don't need to its so torquey. I am going to check that pressure relief valve every time I change the oil as I have found any easy way to screw it back in against the spring, I reckon I can do it in a couple of minutes

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On a different route, Florin's windscreen started life on a Sprite, the pillars & frame are a lot stronger --- without the ability to haul ourselves out using the windscreen pillar as a grab handle I doubt we could use her now.

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Not exactly Kevin, I wasnt very clear.

One end of the 2" strap was selftapped to the upper part of the frame, the other end was s/tapped

to the bottom channel, but it twisted a bit, so I just bedded the strap in sikaflex to keep it all in place.

 

Glad youre enjoying the engine, its a good idea to keep an eye on the oil pressure relief valve,

It always took me hours to compress the spring....dont know how you do it in a few minutes

must be the Fireman Sam muscles!

The power comes in in two bands...first at 4k, then a real belt from 5.5k up to 7.5k,

Geoff Dodds at Autosprint said it would be safe up to 8k with the all forged internals, but

I set the revlimiter to 7750, which meant it started to misfire at 7550, but the power still

hadnt peaked by then. But as you say, loads of torque below 4k is still great fun.

Cheers, Bob

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Using the self-tappers in the supports and the 2 angled ones at the bottom is exactly how the GBS factory still advise to do it. I agree, it didn't feel strong enough to me either but mines been in for 2500 miles without a problem so far...

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I used m6 hex head bolts with the heads turned down to about 2mm thick (from memory) inserted into the channel with the thread sticking through the screen supports. Finished with dome head stainless nuts. There is also a supporting strip welded at the back of the supports to give more support to the screen

 

post-11418-0-36702600-1520873664_thumb.jpg

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I used m6 hex head bolts with the heads turned down to about 2mm thick (from memory) inserted into the channel with the thread sticking through the screen supports. Finished with dome head stainless nuts. There is also a supporting strip welded at the back of the supports to give more support to the screen. Photo during rebuild:

 

post-11418-0-36702600-1520873664_thumb.jpg

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I also used M6 bolts but instead of going from the inside outwards i drilled and tapped the alloy frame to accept the bolts. So i have 3 button head hex bolts instead of the tiny self tappers.

 

I still have the diagonal screw holding the frame together though. Whilst it seems a bit rubbish i was watching a car show the other night and they were building the cobra and they used screws in the same way to hold their windscreen frame together (although might have been 2 screws as i think the frame is wider).

 

Ideally it would be beneficial to weld a strip of steel down the windscreen pillar to prevent the windscreen being pushed back in an accident. I would have done this but i welded threaded lugs on to accept bolts for my door hinges which i guess do similar.

 

I drive through the forest where deer live so my main concern is the windscreen stopping a deer coming up the bonnet at me. I have considered creating a steel rollbar just behind the windscreen bolted to the chassis for this reason.

 

hth

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I used inverted ally rivnuts uncompressed or very lightly compressed, drilled the supports so the rivnuts went through then cut back rivnuts so there was some compression but not a lot as the rivnuts now provides the support.

Behind the frame I used some small angle that bolts to the support, the frame rests on this and it further supports the screen.

The crews that pull the bottoms of the frames together were replaced with long thin nuts and bolts with the nut reccessed in the lower frame and bolt cut back

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