The Rebuild Begins!

[Guest The Modfather]

Hi Nigel.

 

How can I attach the tie bars to the side panels and get the rigidity that I need? It is something I would like to do as the front end is stiffer than man who makes rude films! Would a nice length of sturdy angle bolted along the floor pan and against the side panels be sturdy enough to attach tie bars to?

I must admit I don't fancy cutting the sump about as it appears to be quite a good job and I don't want to mess it up.

 

I once had a prop snap on my drag car Anglia but luckily I had a "U" welded into the tunnel and it just fell onto that, otherwise I'd have been sky bound!

 

I think I'll concentrate on the tie bars for now until I get the V6 box, and then I can do the final measuring for the mounts, and I had thought about cutting the boxes out and starting afresh as I don't like the idea of a downward angle on the new mounts.

 

Any ideas how much it costs to have a prop lengthened nowadays so I can budget for it?

 

It is exciting!

[Longboarder]

There's lots on getting rid of the ARB and adding tie bars for early monocoque Hoods if you search and some of those who have done them will be along to comment too. Very worthwhile mod.

 

Prop from Dunning & Fairbank or your favourite maker is only around 140 quid brand new, made to measure! No brainer really. When you save on a water rail. It's what I did. Mind you I do have to remove the engine to change the thermostat!

 

Nigel

 

It's 5.30am, and I'm awake. Trackday Llandow. Ooooh! Too early.

[Guest mower man]

Hi Daz look at the photo's I sent you and read the instructions .Iused 2" angle approx 6"long both on the outside and inside with care you can secure the tie bar pickup brkt and the strengthning plates with the same bolts ,I used 10mm x1.5 Allen capbolts with a shank so not to place stress on the thread section ,noprob in 30k ish miles .If the instruction s are not clear get in touch and I'll talk you through it regards mower man

[Guest The Modfather]

There's lots on getting rid of the ARB and adding tie bars for early monocoque Hoods if you search and some of those who have done them will be along to comment too. Very worthwhile mod.

 

Prop from Dunning & Fairbank or your favourite maker is only around 140 quid brand new, made to measure! No brainer really. When you save on a water rail. It's what I did. Mind you I do have to remove the engine to change the thermostat!

 

Nigel

 

It's 5.30am, and I'm awake. Trackday Llandow. Ooooh! Too early.

 

Cheers Nigel. I will have to wait until I get the V6 box before I measure for a new prop, but will speak to Dunning and Fairbank in the mean time.

As per MM's reply (I cannot get the multi-quote to work >HELP<)I will seek out the previous posts re the tie bars. What i may do is use longer angle (probably the length of the bay)and bolt thru the floor, and use a smaller section outboard to attach the tie bar anchor to.

I may also attach a cross bar from either side tying the two lengths together at the front, just forward of the engine, to help body rigidity. I suppose with a 2B I wouldn't be so worried as i would attach direct to the tube chassis. It sounds easier than finding someone to do a good job rewelding the sump!

Thanks to everyone so far, but I would like to hear from other 3a tie bar converters please.

 

Darren

[Guest chris brown]

A couple of photos here Daz

[Guest The Modfather]

Thanks Chris.

Rather than make new tie bars I was just wondering if the current one can be cut. I could cut them shorter and weld a rose joint on each end, and then attach to a strengthened side panel, although due to the strengthner ribs on the engine bay side trays, space is awkward, which is why I was wondering about bolting another clamp at the end of the cut section and using flat plate to strengthen the side tray as this area is not as restricted.

 

[Guest AWhite]

I'll get you some pics of my tie bars when i get in but from memory there is a bit of metal that sticks up on the floor pan and runs along the length of the engine bay about 1 inch from the outer skin. I got some spacers made up on a lathe and bolted through the tie bar mount on the outside, a plate that bends around and under the car, through the outer skin of the monocoque through the spacer and finally the bit of metal that sticks up. Been like this for years with no problems and no deforming of the monocoque.

 

Andy

[Guest The Modfather]

The ARB is now out, along with the front end brake pipes. The bellhousing is off (forgot that the bolts are through bolts and oil *bleep* out) and just need to drop the box, so the new one can go in.

I also cleaned out the engine bay of all the oily crud that had accumilated up the sides and on the trays, and I have shiney stainless underneath! It actually looks nice.

 

I now want to have a look at the crank journals on the zetec, so can anyone tell me if I can just remove (and then replace) one mains cap at a time for the inspection, or is it best just to remove every one using a diagonal pattern (like when undoing a head)?

 

Parts I now have:

1.8 silver top zetec

ZX6R carbs (mmmm, lovely)

coil pack and HT leads

Escort 1.8 clutch plate and cover

Escort 1.6 flywheel (to be delivered)

Cortina clutch bearing

Type 9 (to be collected)

Facet fuel pump 1-3 PSI

Megajolt

In-line fan switch

Loom (awaits delivery)

 

Parts I still need:

Edis and associated sensors and loom

Crank pulley (may have found one)

Water pump pulley

Inlet manifold

Exhaust headers

Engine mount rubbers (may use XR4i rubbers)

Engine gaskets

 

I'm getting there slowly!

Keep watching this space for updates and I will try and remember to take some pics.

 

Darren

[BigLee]

Daz - undo ALL main caps progressivley so all loose - You wont lose a shell. Once loose check one at a time and then replace before next one. tighten all back up and then check big ends as well. or do this first. I woudl recommend new front and rear crank seals if doing this as they will stretch marginally.

 

Someone with some more engine build experience may say different but thats what I would do. Lee

[Guest The Modfather]

Daz - undo ALL main caps progressivley so all loose - You wont lose a shell. Once loose check one at a time and then replace before next one. tighten all back up and then check big ends as well. or do this first. I woudl recommend new front and rear crank seals if doing this as they will stretch marginally.

 

Someone with some more engine build experience may say different but thats what I would do. Lee

 

Big Lee, hello mate. Hope you and dad are well and you haven't lost him again!

 

Good point re the oil seals, didn't think about that. Is it worth having the head off and pistons out to check, or head off and lower the pistons to check the bores?

 

Thanks mate, take care.

 

Darren

[BigLee]

Depend how much you want to spend. If I had a lump down to that level of strip down I would check the rings as well so would remove pistons. BUT last time I did this and then mic'ed up the bores and viewed the small step in the rings decided on a rebore and then a new set of pistons and rings. Cost to investigate the engine shot up astronomically. If you check the bores and smooth as a baby's proverbial I would be tempted to risk it. - Can you do do a compression check with the head on - If you have good compression to be honest I wouldn't bother lifting the head. Can introduce more problems than cure. Just my tuppence worth.

 

Good luck with it.

 

PS where's me dad!!!!! I've lost him again....

[Guest The Modfather]

From what I can see, the bores appear nice and smooth, and I must admit, the inside of the engine is absolutely spotless. Personally I think the engine has been fettled recently due to it's cleanliness. Also the sump has been professionally made by the looks of it.

 

Graham B has had a look and he is of this opinion.

 

I managed to get an Edis, VR sensor and a water pump pulley, tick 3 more off the list.

[Guest The Modfather]

Hi everyone. Well, things are starting to go back on and in!

 

Feels like I have turned the corner and my hopes are high again

 

The tie bars are now fitted. They are not properly adjusted yet as the whole front end will come off to be cleaned and painted nice again. I will also look at my shocks and springs, maybe that Santa brings a set for me

 

 

 

 

 

I also started to run the new loom in the engine bay. I cut the loom in half so that I can draw it through the bulkhead. I have purposely kept the loom low in the bay so that it isn't above the exhaust manifold. I will solder the wires and heat shrink them inside the cab. I will do the same with the fuse boxes and relays, cut, push through and rejoin.

 

 

 

 

 

Will update some more later, gotta feed the dogs!

[Guest mower man]

Daz are you sure you have got the tie bar right ? where the bend is shown the wheel will catch big style turn it through 180 degs sorry to pedantic mower man they look v/nicly made and fitted

[Redspec]

Daz are you sure you have got the tie bar right ? where the bend is shown the wheel will catch big style turn it through 180 degs sorry to pedantic mower man they look v/nicly made and fitted

 

 

LOL why do we sometime LOOK but not SEE

 

Well spotted I was just lookind at the nice shiney bits

 

Steve