The Rebuild Begins!

[Peter Bell]

It may look wrong but it is right, the critical bit is the angle the tiebar connects to the lower arm, avoiding stress on the rubber joint,if you imagine the tie bar the other way around it will be miles out.

[Guest The Modfather]

LOL, Redspec and MM you are both wrong. The tie bars fit that way round and the wheels will only rub if the steering wheel is so far left or right, as if the turning circle is like a London black cab!

As Peter states, the tie bars won't fit the other way as the angle is too severe to fit into the control arm bushes. I am very happy with them, and am not concerned with the wheel rubbing as the tyre wont actually touch the bar. The picture looks deceiving but the bend is inside the wheel, trust me, I've tested it

 

If I'd have left them straight then there would have been less turn on the wheels. I need to polish them up, and will paint all the brackets including the under-tray strengthener.

 

Eh Mick, what's this about you going back to an ARB? You can have mine if you want?

 

Edited due to seeing Peter's post, cheers Pete

[Redspec]

Hey Daz if you don't take note of people that care to take the time to post I don't know I bother

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Only joshing luv the shiny bits and I no nowt about the series 111 but hey ho who am I to say I was wrong But don't use trick ( LOL ) pics in the future that don't tell the full story and please use a 3D camera with wheels on full lock from side to side in HD.

 

 

Point made

 

Love the shiny bits LOL and I was WRONG to agree with another post (if that post was wrong)

 

That was not hard just had to open my eyes or ear's, listen to other peoples point's of view and admit I may be wrong, I may be right or Keep my gob shut

 

Steve

[Guest The Modfather]

Hey Steve I know exactly why you said that they look wrong and agreeing with MM is understandable. The non HD 3D pic does no justice for them

When I put them on at first I thought that they were no good, but when fully bolted in I was really surprised how much turn I get without it even rubbing. Once they are fully adjusted then the bar will actually give a little more room for the wheels as the bar will need to be pulled further up the rose joint thread nearer to it's anchor point.

 

The lower TCA is slightly angled forward at the wheel end and I will need to tighten the rose joint a bit more to bring the TCA in line with the upper wishbone.

 

How good they actually are is unknown and it'll be a while before I do find out.

 

I do appreciate people's input

[Redspec]

SEE THAT IS THE WAY TO HAVE A DEBATE AND FINISH ONE!!!!! YES I KNOW I AM SHOUTING

 

 

Rant over

 

Steve

 

 

[Guest woolly]

the bend on mine is abit closer to the TCA but looks like it should be ok. my tyre will touch the bar if i really try.

 

as its a now chassis mount i would like to see lock nuts on the strengthening plate etc, just my view.

 

woolly

[chris n]

Tie bars Look good Daz

[Guest The Modfather]

as its a now chassis mount i would like to see lock nuts on the strengthening plate etc, just my view.

 

woolly

 

Hi Woolly. Only normal nuts on there at the mo for set up. Once everthing is painted and put back for good then nylocs will be going on. I have 3 bolts in the side wall and 3 on the floor pan, not sure if my pic shows the 3 in the floorpan. 6 in total.

 

Thanks for the input, and nice of you to think of my safety

[Guest mower man]

Was'nt being critical and understand your reply and don't want to come over with the I 'm cleverer than you but if I build another set !? I would on reflection put a bend in but an "S" shaped on which would cover both bases .Eagerly awaiting replies, comments but my earlier comment about adjustment still stands mowerman

[Jamiep]

was going to/ did post about bend position of bars but didn't see last page lol. the cars coming on nicely Daz, I may well be tapping up for advice soon as mines in need of a full strip and rebuild.

[Guest The Modfather]

Hey Jamie.

 

I was only going to do the engine/gearbox swap. But the sump fouled the anti roll bar, and Mower man had nicely written up the instructions to fitting the tie bars for me, so I ended up doing them, even though it wasn't on my list of things to do. I do think they look the nuts, and once polished they will look better.

I also ripped out the whole wiring loom as it had been totally butchered, and had at one point in it's sorry life caught fire, and had a bodge repair. I found the damage just after I got the car and sorted it properly, but always knew that it was something to defo get replaced. I have an Autosparks loom going in, and although it is wired for a pinto, there are extra wires and relays needed, but thankfully Megadodo has pointed me in the right direction with regards to what relays are required.

I wasn't going to touch the rear end either, but this will no doubt be pulled apart seeing as I'll be underneath it doing the rear wiring as well. The interior won't be redone as I only done that last christmas.

At least I will know the car fully once completed, which hopefully will be March/April time!

[Jamiep]

wasn't really planning on doing much to mine but as more thing fail/ fall off I'm finding more and more bodges so I think I'll strip it back and start again. current problem, no fuel gauge and no speedo/ tacho so I'm playing petrol station roulette on every trip lol

[Guest The Modfather]

Just a little update.

 

Since getting the V6 type 9 box, my old prop was no good due to wrong size thingy-me-bob at the front end, and not enough splines. Graham B has kindly donated the correct shaft and it is now fitted, and the type 9 mated to it.

I have retro fitted the engine back in so that I can size up to fabricate some emgine mounts.

 

I have decided to use Transit bobbin type engine rubbers (very hard rubber sandwiched between two metal plates and a threaded stud either side, similar to old Cortina ones) and was going to drill a hole in the floor pan and a 5mm thick 4"x4" steel plate underneath so that the stud cannot pull through, then have another plate with a hole to go over the top stud, from which I'd weld a 2"x1" 3mm thick steel box section tube up to another 3mm thick plate which will be bolted to the engine. Will this suffice? It has been mentioned that the rubber mount should be angled towards the engine at say a 45deg angle. This would mean making a steel wedge to go between the rubber mount and the floor pan.

 

Here is a Paint design to show you what I mean, although it is not precise hopefully you will get my drift:

 

[Guest mower man]

Hi Daz the second drawing is sim to the mounts on my car , the difference my mounts use 4" pipe with a square plate at the bottom bolting to the tub and the top plate welded flush and has a nut welded to make it captive inside the tube works well and also looks nice regards mick

[fry61]

Although the engines weight bears down on the mounts the most force to be resisted is the torque trying to twist the engine around; so in my opinion either mount is O.K. but the horizontal one will be easier to fabricate. Please shoot me down if you disagree folks. Darren you know where a welder is if required.