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Pinto To Duratec


colinmoore

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  • 1 month later...

20171009_110016.jpg

 

Out With the old, and in withe the new. After a trial fit it was found that a few mods would be required, having opted for a cable clutch I found that the peddle box limits how far back the engine will go. Moving this back a tad plus a small cutout means that the engine/gearbox will sit one and a half inches (37 mm for you youngsters) further forward. This will mean further mods to gear lever and prop shaft, Another annoyance is that the reversing light switch sits right between the two chassis tubes, leaving little space for the connector, I think I will have to create a small flat in one of these tubes! I have made new engine mounts to suit using land rover rubbers, but have had to cut out the plough bar, has anyone found a way to put strength back in this area without putting a massive cross member under the engine?

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I don't think the plough bar adds that much strength and stiffness, it's not a direct connection from one side of the chassis to the other. I cut mine out when I put the V8 in and haven't replaced it. Can't say I've noticed any difference or chassis flexing. If it was going to cause a problem, I would know by now.

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  • 2 months later...

Well the winter upgrade is nearly finished, the Duratec is in, and running. A quick test on the road has shown some interesting pointers:- 1. It's quick, 2. It's smoother than the Pinto, 3. I need to do something with the brakes, as I miss the servo assistance, (no room)

 

 

https://postimg.org/image/rcnyb608p/

 

https://postimg.org/image/dizlm7n3t/

 

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Next step is to fit larger discs, and calipers from the Sierra 4 x 4, which have 260mm discs and 60mm piston calipers, the kit already has rear discs. Then I need to get it MOT'd and taxed, ready for the warmer weather. I also need to find a rolling road, with someone who can handle Micro squirt (not everyone can) to get a proper set up, as base map installed at the moment.

 

 

 

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I actually bought some mondeo calipers with the intention of following Richy's example, but they are massive, I didn't go as far as to buy 300mm discs, as I thought about the unsprung weight I would add to my modest power increase. Having shed about 50 Kilos on the engine change, I though of a more modest upgrade, that I hope won't unsettle the brake balance. I have ditched the ball in can rear brake restricting device that the IVA man insisted I fit to prevent rear locking, and as I already had some 60mm piston front calipers (normal ones are 54mm ) but much the same weight, I thought I would go down this route. Time will tell, I know with a good prod the standard brakes will work fine, but we have all been spoiled with power assistance on any thing that requires effort.

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Guest lotusPaul

Have you considered changing your pads? I went from standard hardish compound to EBC green stuff pads when i bypassed my servo. They work really well from cold. Great for light cars. My Elan is cira 750kg with me in it.

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^ What he said. I would exhaust all other avenues before I started putting bigger brakes onto a car as light as ours. Assuming we're not talking overheating here (that's a different argument), and just an effort aspect, then the correct thing to do is look at the piston ratios between the master cylinder and the calipers, and revise it in your favour by either going for a smaller m/c or a larger piston area, assuming you want less effort but are happy to take a little more pedal travel. Since it's often hard to make the caliper end larger in piston diameter without actually changing the whole caliper/disk assembly, it's often easier to just change the master cylinder and certainly has less weight disadvantages.

 

But fluid and pads are an easy swap.

 

After that, an uprated disk with a high frictional content, something like a motorsport-derived AP/Alcon/PFC. They are not cheap but, hey, if you wants the performance then you have to pays the money!

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