nelmo

Get the wheel alignment done - I had zero re-centering before I had mine done and only just squeezed through IVA due to a very kind tester. Not dangerous really, just ruins your tyres quicker. Unfortunately, most normal alignment places won't be able to do a kit because their equipment won't fit under the wheelarches. I had a mate with one of those home laser alignment tools - did mine in a pub car park one evening

Yes, I did think that was possible but I wasn't sure...

No, if the V5 looks OK, no need for an IVA (SVA is the old system that IVA replaced). Only needs a new IVA if you change the chassis/body in some way - changing the engine is fine but you need to tell the DVLA because it may affect what emissions you need to be tested for at MOT time. Engine number is irrelevant these days - mine is blank because my engine was brand new from the warehouse and they don't stamp codes on them until they get to the factory.

Darn, booked up that weekend, looks fun...

Where are you, Paul? I'm in Reigate... I'm the area sec for the SE but it's been hard to get anyone out - we had a couple of meets last year but even then, I was the only one with a working kit . The weather is improving, so I'll try arrange something soon...

Are you sure you called the right place - not GBS, GBC: https://www.facebook.com/GBC.Autos.Tamworth/?locale=en_GB

Why on earth would you do that? Most people convert TO FI, not the other way round Sounds to me like you're not running on all cylinders ( I mean the engine but I'm not sure about you either ). Check you're getting a spark to all cylinders? And carb setup but I know nothing about carbs...

Do you know roughly what needs doing? Could it be driven to an IVA test? Might be worth taking it, failing but getting a list of fail points so you can show it to someone and they can quote you to fix it. An IVA retest is only £95. Richy on here runs a garage called GBC (?) Autos in Tadworth. Give him a list and he should be able to give you a quote.

A seal will only work well if both mating surfaces are flat and smooth - I'm guessing yours aren't? Probably why there is sealant there from before? Not sure if you can get petrol resistant sealant but that seems to be the way forward?

I got mine done at this place: https://www.varatechnik.com/ ....when John Lamsley worked there (ex-Emerald employee) but I'm not sure if he still works there (he's not listed on the website). John has a FB group called 'Emerald ECU tuning tips and advice' - you can ask him on there where he works? EDIT: ah sorry, just realised you said 'Herefordshire' - I read it as 'Hertfordshire'

I have no experience of Pinto engines, I'm afraid. My Zetec starts off very high when cold (700+ kPa) and then settles to around 3-400 when up to temp, which I believe is normal for a Zetec...

Looks very good - my blacktop Zetec is like that at idle and I always thought the Pinto's were supposed to be lower? As an England fan, damn right - I was worried about the wooden spoon for us before the start. Beating Ireland was miraculous! Really good competition this year - so many unexpected results (except for Ireland, of course)...looking forward to the Autumn Internationals because I'd imagine we'll get hammered by the SH teams - but need to play those games to improve... I'd be interested to know what you guys thought of the 6N - some of the Welsh play, for example, was downright embarrasing last weekend

Pull the HT leads one at a time - if the knocking stops, you know its the engine and which cylinder.

Ha! Shows me to be wrong again - there was a quick fix

I'm afraid this is all electrics and almost every kit car is unique in that respect. You need to get a multimeter out and test the wiring from switch to motor, test the action of the switch with the multimeter etc. Sadly, there are rarely quick fixes when it comes to electrics....