Td5

[Guest Nik]

Hi all, we have a discovery that the other half uses to drag the horse box around with. Got a phone call from her the other day to say that it had got hot, told her to turn it off and wait for me to get to her as she was only 5 minutes away. Got there topped it up with water to get her home. Ran fine temp gauge read ok but electric fan was on when she got back. Started having a look about and rad was cold. Bled the system but could not get rad to get warm. Assumed thermostat was stuck so have ordered a replacement but thinking about it would the system bleed if the thermostat was stuck?? Any advise would be gratefully received. Thanks in advance

[Shaft]

Check the top hose with the engine running, if it's solid it points to the head gasket. This is a common problem with the TD5 where they fail and allow combustion pressure into the cooling system. Another clue is even though the engine is warm the heater will be cold.

The pressure also stops the coolant from circulating properly hence the cold radiator.

Edited September 22, 2015 by Shaft

[Snapperpaul]

If thermostat stuck closed then no

Air could be behind the thermostat in the block

[Shaft]

Forgot to mention.... are you aware when bleeding the cooling system on the TD5 the expansion tank lifts out so you ensure its the highest point? There's also a bleed screw in the top hose.

[Guest Nik]

Thanks for replies gents. Top hose is not solid and I have bled through top hose. The heater did blow cold until I topped it up with water and bled system, now blowing hot.

[Shaft]

Raise the header tank to aid bleeding, it's designed to lift out to facilitate this.

[Guest Nik]

Cheers shaft will try that

[Guest 2b cruising]

If you have a high lift trolley jack, it also helps to jack the front up as high as you can to lift the radiator.

When you think the system if full squeeze the bottom hose a good few times. This gives a boost to rid any air still stuck in the system.

At this time of year especially important don't forget a/freeze.

After you are sure the fault has been covered of course.

Edited September 22, 2015 by 2b cruising

[Guest Nik]

Thanks for all the tips guys, gonna have a look at it tomorrow. The other thing that is puzzling me is that although the rad is cool the electric fan is coming on. I would guess but don't know for sure that the sensor for the fan would be in the rad? Also the temp gauge is reading normal but I would guess the sensor is in the block. Or am I being stupid and they are opposite to what I believe they are??

[Guest 2b cruising]

Can be anywhere but usually both in block near to thermo housing area.

If fan working it sounds to me very much like thermo faulty.

They either fall apart leaving it open, or wav cylinder leaks so they stay closed.

Second option for yours.

[Guest Nik]

The thermostat is in the bottom hose. Going on your guys advice I think it's a head gasket although no water in oil/oil in water. I am convinced if the stat was stuck shut the water wouldn't pump to the top hose bleeder. I think a head gasket is probably beyond my capability so will have to have a think about if its worth spending the money on. It's a 51 plate with 140k on the clock!!

[Guest Nik]

If only it had a pinto in it!!

[IanS]

you can fit a pinto to anything

[Shaft]

Head gasket, I'd put money on it.

The water gets steamed out the exhaust, favourite place on the TD5 when they go.

The temp sensor is in the triangular shaped hose connector, top of the engine under the decorative cover.

It's a Euro multi plug as it talks to the ecu to control temp gauge, fueling, glow plug timing and electric fan.

HTH.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Start with the basics and it's worth a new stat to try it first.

Your car is still worthwhile attempting the small things first.

The only way the rad could stay cold would be through no circulation.

If nearer I would help with it but distance kills that idea.

When you first start it up and it's still cold, with a full radiator, take the rad cap off. If it blows biggish bubbles, it is a good chance that the head gasket has gone.

Another thing to try is. Once again radiator full. Run up on idle just for a minute or two. Remove the cap when still cold and there should be no pressure.

Once again if pressure, it points to head gasket.