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Too Hot To Trot!


Guest riber3

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Guest riber3

I just spent many an hour reading up on how best to cope with excessive heat in the engine bay caused by the exhaust manifold and downpipes and how best to cope with it.

 

Apart from google steering me to every shop under the sun and before I decide what I am going to do heres a little food for thought.

 

1. High temperature paint WHY? apart from a cosmetic covering what is the benefit and does it reduce the heat of the conponents you have covered? So far I cannot find an answer even though I have painted a few exhausts in my time to make them look better and give some protection against rust.

 

2. Wrapping although good I have seen and heard that they can rust out exhausts and manifolds they can look messy and may not protect other parts getting heatsoak.

 

3. Cermakote or ceramic coating so far seems to be the best option but can be expensive not sure how much a 4 branch manifold would be with downpipes and you need to have your parts to be done by a specialist company. I have seen a you tube diyer do a ceraminc coating but I am not convinced.

 

The point I am trying to make here is that heat can be a serious problem. I am not talking about performance gains here just what is the best choice to make if you have a few heat issues.

 

For me I am thinking about a Cermakote coating if I get a good quote as I am not to happy with extra heat I feel around the engine bay and body work especailly if I am just running the car in the garage. On the road obviously you have airflow helping but I would welcome any thoughts and input on any of the above.

Edited by riber3
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I wrapped my manifold and down pipe and it made loads of difference to under bonnet temperatures. I have heard about it creating rust problems but for that you need water and I can not see how any can remain under such extreme heat, surely it would be driven off in a matter of moments if it got wet.

The heat will be driven elsewhere though , my exhaust gets hotter so you have to mind your legs!

If you want to reduce under bonnet temperatures then you have to increase the airflow through the engine bay, have you got bonnet louvres or vents to allow the hot air out? The problem is not getting air in, it's getting it out. If you look at the area through which air can get in you realise it is way more than that which allows air out.

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With regards to wrapping the advice I was given was to wrap it, and then paint with high temp paint as that helps keep water out. May be an internet myth, but worth doing for the small extra cost.

 

High temp paint alone is cosmetic.

Ceramic coating is the best, but most expensive option.

 

I will probably wrap my manifold over winter.

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Guest Ian & Carole

One more important thing to ensure is that you have plenty of ways of letting the hot air out from under the bonnet.

 

The engine bay in a se7en is small so make sure all the heat has a way out or you are just wasting your time and money.

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Guest 2b cruising

If you think of the modern cars being produced today.

Parts such as engine block and especially exhaust run a lot hotter than in the un-green days.

Most of this is through running with emission controls.

The engine compartments are a lot smaller than the old days.

Sound proofing under the bonnet keeps heat in.

Bottom trays seal the underside keeping heat in.

Every Diesel engine has a heat producing turbo.

Lots of exhaust systems run right under and very close to the oil sump. Heating up the oil.

I don't know of one standard family car manufacturer that uses wrap or ceramics on their systems, just a good through flow of air.

Many of these cars especially front wheel drive v6s have a lot less room under the bonnet than our 7 style cars.

Just why use it other than for looking like one of the boyo's.

I've just been working on a friends motor with x quids worth of ceramic coating.

After just a few seconds of starting the engine, you would burn your skin off if you touch the pipes.

Keep your money in your pockets until you can buy something that really will improve the performance or safety aspects of your cars.

My own opinion.

Edited by 2b cruising
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Guest Knownothing

I found decluttering the nose cone to maximise cool air into the engine bay made a big difference as well as additional bonnet vents (top and side) to let the hot out. I'm hoping the electric fan and thermostatic switch I have sitting on the work bench will solve the stationary increase in temp I get.

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Guest riber3

I wrapped my manifold and down pipe and it made loads of difference to under bonnet temperatures. I have heard about it creating rust problems but for that you need water and I can not see how any can remain under such extreme heat, surely it would be driven off in a matter of moments if it got wet.

The heat will be driven elsewhere though , my exhaust gets hotter so you have to mind your legs!

If you want to reduce under bonnet temperatures then you have to increase the airflow through the engine bay, have you got bonnet louvres or vents to allow the hot air out? The problem is not getting air in, it's getting it out. If you look at the area through which air can get in you realise it is way more than that which allows air out.

Good to know that your wrapping has worked a treat and your point about airflow is quite right and does help a lot. I have encountered a few cars wthat hvae wraps rust through pipes sometimes this has been caused by bad materials , bad weather or left for long periods exposed to the elements

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Guest riber3

I found decluttering the nose cone to maximise cool air into the engine bay made a big difference as well as additional bonnet vents (top and side) to let the hot out. I'm hoping the electric fan and thermostatic switch I have sitting on the work bench will solve the stationary increase in temp I get.

Well said also check and re-route any hoses that may be exposed or wrap them or shield them as necessary. A good quality anti=freeze will help

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Guest riber3

attachicon.gifDSCF6409.JPGAnother option may be to get the headers out of the engine bay as quickly as possible -- i.e. -- straight over the chassis rail.

I tried this but the missus get burning her hair everytime I hit a speed bump!!!

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