Jump to content

Pinto To Duratec


colinmoore

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, looking for guidance from you knowledgeable crew. Tinkeritus demands that I change my aging Pinto in my 2B, for something a bit more modern. My wallet demands restraint! Any way I have bitten the bullet and bought a 62K Duratec from a Fiesta ST150, that was the cheap part. I have also purchased a cable clutch bellhousing for the type 9, and re-drilled the solid flywheel to take a pinto clutch. A lowered sump, and water rail have lightened my wallet considerably, the sump has come from Tiger racing, not as pretty as the raceline one but much cheaper. Now I am thinking about the fuelling, and ECU options, I need something that is not going to break the bank, but lets the motor run efficiently. BHP is not the end all in this instance, I will be happy to end up with the standard output (for now). This is where I need your advice, as I see it I have 4 options. Option 1, Fit the R1 carbs from the pinto, with a Danst manifold, and something like Megajolt for the sparks. This is the cheapest option I think, however I believe this is a backward step to take a fuel injected engine and fit carbs. Option 2, is to try and fit the single throttle body, and horrific manifold from the donor engine. I'm not sure if it would fit,(Pinto in car until winter shut down) and would probably require the engine to be fitted further forward, due to the position of the throttle body, also I would need to modify it to overcome the fly by wire throttle. Option 3, is to pay the ransom for ITBs, it's funny how throttle body kits seldom come with all the parts you actually need to run, i.e. fuel rails, throttle linkage, TPS, trumpets, to say nothing about injectors. Then I would need an ECU, like Megasquirt, Omex etc. Option 4, Danst engineering do a kit for bike throttle bodies with all the bits and pieces, plus an ECU to match at a more reasonable price. This last option is favorite at the moment, what do you think?

Edited by colinmoore
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest lotusPaul

Id go fuel injetion everytime. You wont be disapointed with the results. The cost is not that much more if you consider the price of both as new packages. Having done the conversion on a few cars including my own i would not go back, but having said that Webs and Dells have a unique sound at full chat. I love em.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go cheap and save for future, I would go for Option 1, Fit the R1 carbs from the pinto, with a Danst manifold, and something like Megajolt for the sparks.

1. This is the cheapest option - good news you are on a budget.

2. However I believe this is a backward step to take a fuel injected engine and fit carbs - matter of opinions there's a lot of bike carbs in the kit car world.

 

In the end its your view (and wallet) that counts, do what you will be happy with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would only look at 1 and 3.

1. Bike carbs with megajolt. Rolling road to set up the carbs and proper 3D ignition should result in a tractable and powerful drive.

3. Lurk on ebay to await a bargain when someone is selling throttle-bodies. Often come with all the bits and at a reasonable price. Your engine probably came with injectors which will do fine. Add in megasquirt and you know you have all the potential.

 

Using the OE kit is a non starter and bike throttle-bodies are a bit of a bodge (or they were for me.) I always looked at them, thought about the steps in the manifold throat going from ally to silicon to ally again and wondered how much flow disruption there was. And the welded ugly butchered fuel rail to get the spacing right and wondered how much power I was wasting. Eventually bought ITBs.

 

Despite being fuel injected for 10 years I still regard bike carbs highly. Budget adequate rolling road time. Perhaps even look at 1 as step 1 to be followed after a year by 3 as step 2 if you're not happy with 1.

 

Nigel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Duratec cost me £575 off the bay, came complete with engine loom and manifolds, down as a 62k miler, not witnessed it running yet, but overall condition seems fine. I understand that these can go on for 150k if looked after. Incidentally am I correct in believing that he coolant flow runs in reverse of the normal expected direction, that is flowing out of the rear of the head, through the rad, and in at the thermostat housing. I also understand that a by pass is required between thermostat housing and rear of head?

Edited by colinmoore
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...