PaulF2B

If you have a Mass Airflow sensor that could be giving bad feedback under load (they do often fail), found this site that shows how to test it. may be worth a try: http://my.prostreetonline.com/2016/02/02/how-to-test-a-ford-focus-maf-sensor/ Or is there any test software for the Emerald that will help determine if the sensors are all reading correctly?

Looking at the photos the hole spacing on the bracket appears around 2cm. Why not drop the left side down to the next set of holes (as per Al's build) that would give around 6cm both sides. However lowering the left side would reduce your overall ground clearance, not sure if that is an issue? If so, you need to look at raising the right side to 8cm, possibly with a new bracket as Agent_Z suggests. The other thought is to just use the tolerance in the bracket holes (they are often well over the bolt diameter), you will probably find to can close the gap be about 1cm by loosening the bolts one side and push the bracket up / tighten. Then the opposite side pushing down.

As you mentioned you skimmed the head, the bolts will go further down into the block. So the bolts could be bottoming as mentioned above, requiring the bolts to be shortened.

Hi Andy, Let us know how it goes, I tried fitting a Powerspark Elec' ignition module that worked fine until I connected the Rev' counter (to the Neg' of the coil). The extra impedance of the instrument was too much and it would start missing sparks, you could clearly see missed flashes on the strobe. I have the standard rev counter in a Sierra instrument cluster. I am interested how you get on. Cheers Paul

Just a regular service with new oil, plugs, filters (oil, fuel and air if its paper) and points can help bring back power to the Ford levels. A carb' strip/ clean of the DGAV can also help, fit new jets if you still have the original factory ones, also replace the fuel inlet filter. A DGAV service kit is under £20. I recently found my compression pressures were low on my 2.0L only around 60 psi, also I was getting oil smoke on startup so the valve seals needed replacing. I have just completed a head strip over winter, new stem seals and re-grinding in the valves. It has made a big difference to power and the compressions is now around 120 PSI on all cylinders. You could do all of the above for the cost of a rolling road session, or just upgrade to a 2.0 as Paul suggests.

I previously had a regular points setup where the coil negative is connected to ground 2 times each revolution of the engine. The sierra rev counter connected to the coil negative would then get the pulses and convert this into RPM. There are 2 pulses (sparks) per crank revolution on a 4 stroke engine, you will notice you have to turn the crank round twice for 1 rev' of the camshaft and all 4 pots to fire. I then fitted a Powerspark electronic ignition module, but with the rev counter fitted it added extra electrical loading to the coil negative (it's impedance was too low), and the engine would not run smoothly, missing some sparks. A better solution for the electronic ignition modules is to get the rev pulses from the alternator. If your alternator has a "W" terminal you should be able to connect this to the rev' counter feed and keeping the coil connections to the minimum.

Ah, sorry they are a lot smaller than they look in the photos! So probably not boot or side panel. Although left and right look like they may have come from the factory with the striped protection paper, the middle one looks home made with pencil lines. Anyone else any ideas?

Hello Shane, This looks like quiz of the day! The left picture looks like a boot panel, either the bottom panel or a top cover. The right picture looks like a front offside side panel, it may be spare for an alternative suspension set-up. As for the middle picture I am not sure, possibly a steering column shroud, to be bent around the steering with a hole for the column to go through. But not sure of its size from the photo. Maybe if you can post some pictures of the car and what is fitted it may help further. Cheers Paul

Here's a copy (attached) of the Vicky Green loom drawing as a .pdf that shows the Ford Motorcraft amplifier. There is also wiring info' on this post: http://community.rhocar.org/downloads/wiring/Hoodwire.htm See the "Ign & Charging 2" page that may help. I have not used the Ford module though as I have an old dizzy with traditional points that seems to work well. Basically you just take the switched Ignition feed to the +ve of a ballasted coil, then the -ve is switched by the points to ground. You just need the standard capacitor (condenser) fitted across the points. Keeps it simple and seems to work fine. You could also invest in one of the electronic ignition modules that fits inside the dizzy, but beware they can cause issues if you want to take the rev counter feed from here. It is not an issue if you have a rev counter output on the alternator. vicki_green_pinto_wiring_loom.pdf

You could always go for the South African optional extra: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDrzMGdYWZc You may need to invest in some VHT Paint though

I am guessing you may have carb's with Auto-Choke (possibly Webers). If so the choke may not be fully opening at the cooler temp's and using the extra fuel. You can take off the air filter after a run and see if the butterfly is fully open. But hopefully a new thermostat will fix it

Also check out section 19 "Seat Belt Anchorages" in the IVA Manual, it gives you some ideas of what the examiner will be looking for. But good solid welded plates as in John's site link above is your best route.

Yes the Fiesta unit is an easy fit in the pipework with 4 ports and internal bypass, electrically it just needs an on/off switch on the dash to supply 12V. The switch toggles between bypass and flow through. Internally it has a simple solenoid actuator. On/ Off control is plenty for a RH

Interesting! Thanks Peter. It flows the opposite way through the heater than I expected. I have used a heater control valve/ actuator from a Fiesta and I think it needs reversing now, probably why my small heater is always warm.

Do you have an open tank breather pipe that could be getting sand/ grit kicked up from the back wheels? If so one of the small air filters can be fitted to keep it out. Otherwise maybe get the old filter and cut it open over a white sheet of paper and try and see just what it is in your filter (do the CSI bit), it may help you see if really is sand and grit or shards of metal, rubber etc, may give you a clue where it is coming from.