Head Gasket

[balnacoul]

Engine is a 2.0Efi, but the water holes in the gasket (size and number off) do not match up with the cylinder block or head. Local motor factor is adamant this is right gasket for this pinto but am not entirely convinced and would like to "Ask the audience"

[Guest chris brown]

Don’t normally have that red stuff round them what make is it?

[Guest Takumi]

I had a gasket like that, t where the water channels have to go though a 'hole punch'size hole..

I am curently running a similarly designed (tiny water holes) gasket on my HC 1800 (10.7:1 !!) I went around all the channels with Hylomar to aid sealing, and since have had no problems, not even over-heating .

 

 

tak

 

Pics of my gasket set (you can just see the small water holes) are on my website.

 

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/zbrozek/INDEX.HTM

[Guest TerryBarry]

I've got an unused 2.0l one made by FAI

Looks just like yours (same number and position of the little holes)

Only difference is that the line of red "sealant" is only a single line and is on the other face of the gasket

 

Good Looking car there Tak

[Guest Cantbearsed]

as i'm typing I have next to me a head gasket made by FAI Autoparts. It is part number HG 110 and is equivalent to AH 860 from other manufacturers.

 

I bought this from the auto distributors I work for after extensive computer checking and book/data cross referencing.

 

It is identical to the one in your picture, EXCEPT the sealant material is on the other side.

 

Just for good measure, go to a different motor factor and ask if they have a Pinto head gasket in stock and if they have, compare the two.

 

 

Before i fit mine, I'll be enlarging the water holes a little....

 

HTH

 

Dale.

[balnacoul]

This gasket is from SASO, Harrow, middx number SCH865. Main concern is that quite a few of the water ports have no hole to flow thro. Bought another cheapo from EBay and it,s the same

[Guest chris brown]

quite a few of the water ports have no hole to flow thro

Don’t worry about that its normal even the Ford ones are like that it was just the red stuff I was commenting on. Look on Tak's site he has a picture with 2 gaskets on it and you’ll see what I mean.

[Guest Russler]

don't mess with the holes they are specifically designed like that to control the flow through the head, too much cooling and you lose efficiency etc....

 

oh and be careful if you use hermetite or whatever as it is good for blocking the water passages as the head tightens.

[Big Jim]

Don't mess with the water holes, the red lines around the outside is sealant that will break down and "seal" the gasket once hot. Don't put Hylomar or any other sealant on a head gasket, both surfaces should be perfectly clean and dry. clean & dry out the bolt holes as well, or when you put the bolts in, any oil etc, that's in them will contaminate your gasket seal.

The gasket shown is a reasonable good one, you can get "better" ones that have the red lines of sealant around all the bolt holes etc. as well, but you pays your money.

make sure that you torque the bolts down to the correct values, as there are 2 distinctly different values depending what bolts you use, get it wrong, and you'll be doing it again in a few weeks!

[Guest Mr_Frosty]

I wouldn't adjust any of the holes on the gasket could make the water decide to seep through and break the gasket away in the very small gap between head and block.

I've just put my head back on but bought a cheap head gasket set from motor factors just for the inlet and exhaust thermostat and that, but spent a bit extra on a decent one from burton power.

You can see the difference just by looking. The one from burton has extra metal between the cylinders where as the ford one and cheap one did not.

Guessing this will help as my engine blew the gasket between cylinders 3+4 and just had a standard ford gasket when taken apart. Also the ford one is 40thou thick and the one that burton recommended to me was 47thou thick. (may not be right for everyone mine has a stage 3 head and was skimmed 10thou more)

Just explain what you have to them they seem helpful.

 

As big Jim said if you are buying head bolts you will most likely get the Torx type a T55 bit to fit:

Clean the holes out really well

1. 35-40nm

2.70-75nm

3. Wait 5 minuets (very important. Don't think it matters to much if it's a little longer)

4. Turn 90 degrees (use an angle gauge and someone to hold it for you easier than using the stupid locking bar)

Obviously follow the correct tightening sequence.

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Mr Ftrosty

I think that almost 7 years on from the initial post the issues might have been resolved. lol.

 

That must be the oldest post resurection ever.

[Guest Mr_Frosty]

oh yeah my bad ignore all that then.

[agent_zed]

but the important question did the gasket hold up for the 5 years?

[Guest nutter]

i changed on mine just few days ago and it was like yours not all the holes matched and few of them were blocked but was told by my next door mechanic (they beeen there for 30 years) that it is not necessery and they do block holes as they use these heads on many engines so it depends on ur engine size.. hope that helps.

[Snapperpaul]

Mr Frosty

40 thou standard gasket???

Ford standard was 1.65mm 0.065"

Reinz (Cosworth) 1.27mm 0.051mm

Felpro or the larger Adjusa 1mm 0.04mm

 

Yes some holes are blocked and other smaller than the holes in head or block

 

Sealant helps with older heads and blocks, Cometic gaskets need very flat surface to seal