Latest Lesson Learned

[Guest Knownothing]

As a result of using the incorrect wheel nuts I have snapped a wheel stud (rear offside) (you live and learn). Having researched the forum I am going to give replacing it a go. My question is, can I do it while the hub is still on the car or will the banging and twisting push something out of position?

 

Thanks in advance again.

[Guest peter2b2002]

I think you have to knock the stud inwards

peter2b

[Guest Knownothing]

I think your right but reading other threads suggest people have done it with the hud in situ but I could be totally wrong.

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Once you get the wheel off, remove the drum and you can remove and replace through the large hole in the hub, it's a bit fiddly but can be done.

 

A couple of "SHARPE" blows with a hammer, I use a 4lb lump, and they will drop out.

 

Fitting your new one you will need a spacer to fill the gap between the hub and the wheel nut.

 

You will need to lube the wheel nut as you pull it through using a socket and long bar.

 

You will feel the stud get tight when it bottoms out on the hub.

 

After a few miles re check you wheel torque settings as the stud might need a final nip as it settles.

 

HTHs.

[Snapperpaul]

I would support the rear of the hub so as not to bend it and the bearings

The next issue will be pushing the new stud back in

It's probably easier to take the hub off then it's a simple case of bashing the stud out on a vice with jaws slightly open

Then I use a long socket, use that in a vice over the stud hole in the hub and use the vice to push the stud in.

If you don't have a vice then just a long socket and a lump hammer will do the job of you keep it all straoght

[Bob Tucker]

and twisting

dont twist it...it has splines that lock it in place to stop it twisting.

[kevin the chicken]

I plan to do mine in the winter as they are not quite long enough for my liking. I was wondering how to get them out, now I know and it sounds right up my street. I thought that when I put the new ones in I would put them in the deep freeze before I wound them in, don't know if it would make it any easier but it can't hurt.

[agent_zed]

I plan to do mine in the winter as they are not quite long enough for my liking. I was wondering how to get them out, now I know and it sounds right up my street. I thought that when I put the new ones in I would put them in the deep freeze before I wound them in, don't know if it would make it any easier but it can't hurt.

I know the tolerances are probably much finer but when Guy Martin did the spitfire rebuild he was holding a pin that holds the subframe on and the heat from his hand expanded it enough that it wouldn't fit and they had to wait for it to cool. So deep freeze should only help and as you say shouldn't hurt.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Deep freeze will help.

Whatever you do, don't use a four pound hammer.

If the stud moves out in one blow, you will damage the hub faces.

A one and a half pound hammer is more than required.

Don't be afraid, hit with a sharp confident strike and the come out easily.

Before attempting to remove, make sure your hub is rotated to a suitable possition to give enough clearance to let the stud out of the rear of the hub.

If it is hitting the shoes or cylinder, rotate it to a better place.

 

info only. Small triumph hub studs can be removed and refitted with a very small pin hammer, if they have been previously changed or removed. I am sure guy knew this at the time and body heat is enough in this instance. LoL

[cb750]

I've never used only a hammer to get them out. If I take the hub off it goes into the vice with tubular spacers or sockets and is used as a press (it's a 6 inch heavy duty vice). If the hub's on the car I use a track rod end breaker and tighten it up then hit it with a copper mallet to impact it out, it usually needs a few goes to drift it completely out.

[Guest Knownothing]

It's out. Couple of swift taps did the job. Just waiting for the new one to arrive.

[Guest Nik]

Give it a good soak with wd a couple of days before you do the job

[Guest Nik]

Must read the last post and type faster DER!!!

[Guest 2b cruising]

Should only be a metal to metal fit.

They are interference fittings and should not be fitted.

Once fitted a little copper slip can be used on the threads.

[Guest Knownothing]

New stud in place. Thanks for all the advice AGAIN. Once the new nuts turn up I will be back on the road.