Wishbone Conversion Info Required.

[maccavvy]

my sliding pillar 2b will soon be wishbone.

 

just wondered if anyone has any specific measurements or anything really that may be of help

 

ive got access to a metal fab guy who will do the welding, but was looking for details before we start hacking bits off and welding new bits on.

 

thanks in advance.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Are these measurements available from GBS.

If they are, you know they will be right.

[Guest Tim Norman]

If I wasn't away from Friday you could come and take your measurements off mine.

[maccavvy]

I've got the front end of the chassis with brackets on..Just wondered if there was a pdf or something I can pass on to metal fab guy

[Guest Ian Maycock]

I did my conversion a couple of years ago. i didn't use the GBS kit but fabricated my own brackets. Your quite welcome to have a look at mine to take measurements from. I am only over the hills in North Manchester.

[Andi]

Some useful links if you havnt seen them already

 

http://nw.rhocar.org/tonypics.htm

 

http://www.joeybrown.co.uk/pages4/leewishbone.html

 

http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/apps/photos/album?albumid=15378036

 

Andi

[maccavvy]

cheers for the links mate . appreciated.

 

does anyone know the dimensions for where the top one go in relation to the lower ones

 

ie ... directly above.. a little forward or rear ward. just wanna make sure as the ones I have may not be in the best position.

 

if not ill have to take measurements from the ones I have and hope theyre right.

[Guest Ian Maycock]

The top brackets should be a little further back than the bottom ones this will give the caster you need. Don't forget the hubs already have a little caster built in to them. Your caster needs to be between 4-6 degrees. When I did mine I allowed for about 6mm adjustment on each side so I could make adjustments if necessary. I will measure the offset on mine and post later today when I get home from work. I didn't use the GBS kit so you will need use whatever measurements I give as guidance only.

[Guest Tim Norman]

You could also build in some anti dive by mounting the front upper mounts lower than the rears.

[femster87]

I am not pretending to be an expert on this, but you need to get a pen and paper ready to do a sketch and dimension your top arm. I believe you are using a sierra upright. Here is a dimension of the upright

 

[Guest Ian Maycock]

I just been out to the garage. I am afraid giving you any measurements would be pointless unless you were going to do exactly the same set up as mine. The top hanging brackets are inside the bottom ones when you look at the car from the side. The way I set mine up was to use a laser level and using geometery work out how far the top ball joint needed to be behind the bottom to get the right amount of caster. I then tack welded the brackets set the car down and checked the settings. If I wasn't happy I remove the tack welds and repositioned and checked again. I did this several times until I was completely happy.

 

Sorry a can't be more help

[Guest 2b cruising]

Another thing to consider is the top a frame clearece from your coil over spring.

There is not a lot of spare room at that point.

This is why GBS have just improved the to arm by bending the forward leg of the a frame.

This allows far greater castor adjustment. Improving the handling considerably.

 

Edit. 2b only as far as I know but would be worth a call.

Edited July 30, 2015 by 2b cruising

[maccavvy]

so ideally I need 4-6 degrees of castor.. im assuming so top ball joint is behind the lower one.

 

could this be in the arms.. or where they mount to the car ..

 

I suppose its time to see what I have and do some measureing..

 

how do I adjust castor once fitted.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Once fitted the only none surgical way would be to shim the bottom frame forwards and the top one rearwards.

Yes that means your assumption about possition is correct. Gold star for you mate.

Don't forget to work out where your spring is going to run, and there is not a lot of shimming room between arms and brackets.

I would mock up with tack welds first and then fit everything before final welding.

This could save a lot of time, heart break, and cursing.

[Guest Ian & Carole]

If you want adjustable castor after you have finished make sure that the top mount is wider than your wish bone then you can put washers in the gaps front and back then you can make propper spacers once you have the setting you want.

 

That book is a must before you go too far by the way.