aardvark

After several tyre kickers and around 15 offers of part ex from fireblades to a suzuki vitara (you just wouldn't would you?) I came to the conclusion that it was the wrong time to sell, at the end of the season. Anyway final week of the advert on pistonhead I had 3 offers at the asking price. How mad is that? Sold and now gone to a decent guy in Ireland who I've encouraged to join the club.

I've lowered the price to £4250

Hello Hoodies, UPDATE: Now on ebay : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130560970023#ht_983wt_1139 and Pistonheads : http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3116772.htm I’m selling my Robin Hood Superspec which I’ve had for exactly 1 year. The car was bought from Dredd (top bloke) who was an active and well known member of this club and has lived up to everything I’d expected. It was well built and looked after when I bought it and I’ve kept up the tradition. This was my first kit and since I’ve been dabbling I’m now planning to build my own. The Superspec has 2L Rover T series engine from an 800 series. An Avon Electronics MEMS immobiliser bypass has been fitted and a Rover 220 ECU plus I have a spare ECU. Dredd fitted Gaz adjustable shocks during the build. The car is mostly stainless and GRP. Its made from a SS tubular frame. The bonnet side panels and rear panel are SS the nose and wheel arches are yellow GRP. The boot surround is carbon fibre. It has 15" Array 5 spoke alloys in mint condition with Yokohama tyres with good tread on 2, new spare and fronts will need changing in around 600 miles at a guess. Inside is carpeted and has Recaro fully adjustable seats and Sabelt 4 point harnesses and a Mountney steering wheel. Full wet weather gear included but never fitted or used. Trickle charger also included. Mods since I bought the car: The scuttle has been wrapped with 3m carbon fibre wrap. New SS dash with contrasting 3m carbon wrap New set of retro ETB gauges and senders, tacho, speedo, temp, fuel, oil. The fuel sender has not been fitted but I have it if needed. New dash switches for lights and fog. New carbon centred wing mirrors New rear view mirror in chrome New gear linkage from Robin hood making the gear change much more responsive New colour matched gear knob Redesigned rear fuel filler (the original plan was very slow to fill) New battery When fitting the new gauges I redesigned and simplified some of the wiring and labelled as much as I could trace behind the dash. New nautilus air horn – very loud but legal. New chrome wipers And I’ve got loads of bits and pieces. The above is easily £1000 worth. I want £4750 £4250 for the car. Its a cracking car and being a superspec it was built using all new parts, no donor, no recon engine. All in all its done around 10000 miles since being registered. I had planned some more mods but my wife things it will be better for me to build my own from scratch. I’m in Greece at the moment (til the 5th) and will post more pics if necessary when I get back. Please PM me if interested or better still send me a txt message on 07968 904 386 if you have any questions

Thanks for everyone who tried to help on this. Had an auto electician out today. It was a corroded earth on the ecu plug. Took him a while but it starts and runs as sweet as a nut. So I hadn't done anything wrong after all, (which is unusual for me lol) Happy as Larry :-) Aardvark

Thanks for this Dave. Checked all that, especially the 2 wires to the ecu (white and black to -ve and green and white to +ve). They were always intact and had not been disturbed. Swapped out the coil with a new one and no change in status. Auto Sparky coming tomorrow to have a butchers. Cheers Aardvark

Hey Sharky I take my hat off to you fella Thats the most comprehensive answer to a dumb I've ever seen. Not it wasn't a wind-up but I was asking a much simpler question not really the inner working and the science behind winding. It was very interestting though and I learned something, thanks !! What I wanted to know was how the ignition coil should be connected to the other components and how I can check its working. Sorry for the confusion mate. Basically, there are 3 connections from the ingition coil. I know what the fat one is :-) what should be on the 2 connectors on either side of the lead to the dizzy? Igition live and earth? I suspect I'm wrong somehow but will experiment today (and buys a spare coil just in case lol Aardvark

Thanks Sharky will start there. The brown wire is not from the ignition switch, it comes in from under the scuttle to the cabin. Will need to trace it, might be a red herring. With regard to this: "Next, you said you have a brown wire off point 1 - are you talking about the ignition switch or somewhere else? A point to note on Ign switch is that there is a 12V feed off the starter to the position marked 30 (IIRC)then there are wires coming off position 1 and pos 2 and finally a red/wh back to the starter solenoid from pos 3. At Position 1 you will get a feed off to most of the excess cack such as radio, position 2 will do lights and wipers fuel pump, coil and turning to position 3 will isolate everything on Pos 1 and allow only Pos 2 and starter solenoid (if that makes sense?)" I thing its all OK but will double check I think the bit I don't understand is "Finally, as you ain't got sparks, get your coil connected up" What triggers the coil to send current to the plugs? A

Hey guys Anyone got any clues on where I should start looking? A

Car looks as fantastic as the views Tony!! Good job.

Hi folks I've checked the other posts on similar matters and they don't exactly help. I've been rewiring and labelling the wires behind the dash using a wiring module from CBS and in preparation for putting in a set of vintage Smiths guages. I've got a fair amount done. I snipped all the wires from the old ford clocks and labelled most of them first. I've got the indicators, lights, horn, hazards, reverse light, flash and heater working. I'm going to put the wipers and wash on a retro switch rather than the focus stalks. I've also got the engine warning light wired to the alternator. That's working. I'll be working on the rad fan today if I get chance. I've got a few wired left over :-( which I haven't yet traced. However, now when I crank the engine, it turns over nicely but doesn't fire. I've tried investigating the fuel pump which I think is in the fuel talk (there is a brown cable running to point 1 on the plug which I think should be power to the pump. When I crank the engine there is no power to that point. But I might be barking up the wring tree there I suspect. The same brown cable disappears under the scuttle somewhere but I haven't yet traced it. I have also a pair of cables connected to either side of the ignition coil which I haven't managed to figure out (I was too hasty cutting then or many the label fell off!) By the way my coil is not marker +ve or -ve. Is the larger bolt the +ve? there are other wires coming out of the coil which appear to go to the emu. I've checked the spark plugs and there is no spark to them. I'm a bit flummoxed now and wonder if I can have some pointers from the pros. I think I need to be testing the coil is wired up correctly. I haven't touched it but may have c@cked something up behind the dash?? I only have perhaps an hour in an evening to tinker so this may take a while. Aamir

Got a dash from a Superspec (Focus?) I'm replacing with retro dials. Was working finer when I removed it. The multiplugs in the back need some attention. Free to good home. Will post at cost price. A

Cool Magazine Stephen. Thanks for the link! Aamir

Cheers Steve, this really helps. Many thanks Aamir

OK thanks Steve. Presumambly if you can do this, fitting an extra indicator in parellel s no likely to cause any problems either? Just being cautious:-)

I have a Super spec with the standard Focus instrument panel. Trouble is, its not very easy to see the warning lights on bright days, especially the indicator flasher. I was wondering whether if would be possible to fit an additional bright light in the dash and if anyone had done something similar whats the best way.