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Rwd Ecoboost


Guest lotusPaul

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Guest lotusPaul

You can indeed. I have an 1800 ready to go, turbo on, just needs fitting and plumbing in. Emerald or omex controlled.

 

Its not about the cost but the forward drive to pioneer something different.

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Really? A reliable 350bhp zetec turbo for £1400?

Paul compared the costs of installing the ecoboost to being similar to building a zetec turbo. All I was pointing out was that simply wasnt true as you can quite easily build a zetec turbo for less than the cost of the ecu to run the Ecoboost. As for a 350bhp turbo zetec for £1400, I think with some careful purchasing you could manage it.

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Guest lotusPaul

Actually i think its very possible to build a 350bhp zetec on a tight budget.

 

Required parts typically would come from the Fezzy RS turbo being efi and not mfi as per the ERST.

You would be better off using a 2.0 as the base for the extra capacity.assuming you have the skills or confidence to carry out minor mods.

You would have to ditch the smaller turbo and ideally pick up a cheap T3/4 hybrid or simmilar TD04L size. 36 to 44 lbs/min flow.

The fitting of a better gasket with a decompression plate.

My main concern would be the ecu chipping but this has been done before,

There are others things that need replacing like bigger injectors, id want an intercooler but not essential depending on setup.

 

All in all with carefull, very carefull, selection of components, and probably more luck than judgememt, then it is very possible to extract 350bhp from the 2.0 and safely.

 

My objective is to use a more modern powerplant as the base, as these will become the future choices anyway, research suggests great gains can be had. I only want a reasonable increase within limits to maintain a long life.

Yes the electronics are pricey, but look at an omex or equivalent and its not that much more considering the potential gains. I also have tons of gear that ill either sell on or use

Id rather use. That ecoboost 2.0 wants £450. A 2.0 zetec is over a grand new and still needs converting.

No brainer i thinks.

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A td04L wont flow enough for much more than 280bhp, youd want a td05-16g or maybe a td04-19t. As for internals, st170 engines are cheap and so as many others have done, an st170 bottom end with arp rod bolts, and use the valve springs from it into a blacktop head and you have a cheap 350bhp capable zetec.

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Guest lotusPaul

Duck, without sounding tit-for-tat id like to disagree.

Why?

A TD04L-15C is close to 400cfm flow at just over 1bar.

The 13G is around 360 cfm and thats 350bhp capable too, in theroy but is on the limit, realisticaly 320bhp is maxed.

I see where your going on the 16G, easy suporting close to 400bhp at 80% efficiency, but thats gonna be way to big and very laggy, better option would be either of the TD05-14B or G.

The B is only slighly more than the 15C so again will spool up quicker for less lag and capable of the numbers i require.

TD04L-15C is thus my choice if i would continue with the zetec.

 

Im awaiting a response from the seller, 2nd Jan onwards. Heres hoping for a good deal.

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Guest mcramsay

Whats the big improvement with the ecoboost engine out of interest? My focus has turned to bmw lumps over the last few years and not paid much attention to ford engines,

 

On a side note I would love to stick a b48 engine out of the newer f56 Mini Cooper s into a kit car, my cooper S was an absolute rocket, with bags of torque low down, would make an absolutely great kit car engine, being bmw produced in pretty sure there would be a RWD gearbox out there that would fit.

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I ran a 520bhp 2.0 Toyota for many a mile reliably. I had a Garret GTX76 turbo running 2.2 bar for that. It was a sprint and track car but I used it for terrorizing the roads as you would lol. It evolved over 12 years to be that, a forged engine was the base with JE pistons and a lot of time and attention to detail. Some of the best gains came from the most unlikely sources too. Upgrading from a GT to a GTX turbo was a big advancement, not in power but spool up time, the Ti inducer and billet exducer gave me boost a good 5-600rpm earlier (moved from 4300rpm to 3700rpm for 2 bar), swapping the crap eBay intercooler for a high quality extruded internal microfin core meant I could make 2.2 bar at the TB with only 0.3 bar loss from the turbo, I was loosing over a bar on the eBay core due to internal flow resistance. CFD end tanks and pipe work on the intercooler also transformed the car. But the real key was control! Motec Ecu, forget the rest, buy the best. Cost all of it, but the control was so reliable and solid, I tried Apexi, HKS, omex, a few others, Motec destroyed them all. The devil is in the detail. Just as important as the ecu is a mapper however, Adrian smith at fensport is the best Ive come across, not only competent and experienced but passionate about his work, he cares and it shows in results. Biggest issue for me was his location, 114 miles each way every time I had a map tweeked, and that was twice a year as a rule.

 

V bands on all exhaust joints, port matching and downing etc all help. Its like anything in life tho, you get 90% of the results for 10% of the effort, the last 10% results require 90% of the effort. Where do you see your self?

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