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Zero Thus Far....


Guest scottie686

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Guest scottie686

Yes the dash is pre-cut for dials, although i have had to make the speedo/tacho holes bigger so my dials would fit as they are a bit bigger than standard. The dash i have in there at the moment is the back portion of the dash. It comes in two pieces. The first (the back section) effectively secures the dash to the scuttle and increases the scuttle rigidity. The second, which needs the shape formed as it's a flat piece then secures to the back piece. I've left this off for the time being as i need access to the wiring and when this is on encloses all the wiring. I've attached a pic of what the main dash looks like, and still has a little work to go yet with forming etc!!:-

 

CIMG1276.jpg

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Guest scottie686
getting there mate - any big hassles so far?

 

 

No real major hassles, but thats not to say i may be lined up for a few!! 5 min jobs do tend to take about 2 hours but thats to be expected!! Just getting bits'n'pieces to fit seems to be the biggest headache. Things like hole alignment etc. The biggest problem i think i've had to so far (and touch wood it's the only big prob i have!!) was oil filter clearence on the steering column (only 50mm!!), which has now been rectified with a remote oil filter (begrudgingly! as it was £75!!) and the zetec engine mounts. They had to be cut and re-welded as they were way off!! When bolted to the block they were both sticking out the side of the car! Prob just an 'off' pair!!

 

From a design point of view, something that i think needs a little more thought is the radiator. The rad GBS sell will not fit in the engine bay in front of the engine. The rad is just to wide. That leaves either having it right at the front of the chassis which is a bit silly as when the nose cone goes on you wont have access to the rad cap. This leaves the only other option which is to have it lay flat on top of the chassis. Not a massive problem but you then have to have the rad cap moved from the top of the rad to the side!!

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Yes the dash is pre-cut for dials, although i have had to make the speedo/tacho holes bigger so my dials would fit as they are a bit bigger than standard. The dash i have in there at the moment is the back portion of the dash. It comes in two pieces. The first (the back section) effectively secures the dash to the scuttle and increases the scuttle rigidity. The second, which needs the shape formed as it's a flat piece then secures to the back piece. I've left this off for the time being as i need access to the wiring and when this is on encloses all the wiring. I've attached a pic of what the main dash looks like, and still has a little work to go yet with forming etc!!:-

 

CIMG1276.jpg

 

Many thanks or the answer and photos Scott looks a great, is this your 1st rh if not how do you rate it against te other models

 

cheers Pablo

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Guest scottie686
Many thanks or the answer and photos Scott looks a great, is this your 1st rh if not how do you rate it against te other models

 

cheers Pablo

 

This is my forth RH, but first complete build. My first was an Exmo with 2.0l Pinto which i bought fully built and needed nothing doing to it. My second was another Exmo with a 3.5l V8. This again was fully built but i stripped down, re-painted and re-trimmed and changed the four barrell holley for an Edelbrock Weber 500 carb. Third was a part built 2b Sliding Pillar which i finished about a year ago and was SVA'd shortly after.

 

My brother has a 3a which had a stage 3 Pinto and twin 45's that ended up in my 2b as he is currently changing over to a Cosworth Turbo. His build is somewhat lagging at the moment as he is desparate for an Escort Cosworth Crank Pulley!! By far though the Zero is streets ahead of my previous 3, but, i do miss the burble of my old V8!!

 

Scott.

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Guest zoomzoom

Well done Scott. Looks great.

In a couple of years I might catch you up :o

Hope to have the time this weekend to work on mine :D

 

P.S. Did you get any build instruction with your kit??

 

Marcus

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Guest scottie686
Well done Scott. Looks great.

In a couple of years I might catch you up :o

Hope to have the time this weekend to work on mine :D

 

P.S. Did you get any build instruction with your kit??

 

Marcus

 

No build instructions i'm afraid!!

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Guest ScotMac
Well done Scott. Looks great.

In a couple of years I might catch you up :o

Hope to have the time this weekend to work on mine :D

 

P.S. Did you get any build instruction with your kit??

 

Marcus

 

Come on Zoomie, this is his 4th (or 5th?) hood...he doesn't need build instructions. And you have Baxter (or is it Spencer?), which is better than any trickie dick video could ever be!!

 

Seriously, Scott, looks great...keep it up.

 

-Scot B)

 

PS: I still want to know what is supposed to be done for support for those roll-over bar stays...they really look strange hanging out in the air in the back.

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Guest scottie686
Rear stays. Looks as if the rear bodywork will need a locost type top and bottom rail and you could put in some diagonal braces to beef up the mounts a bit. Otherwise there is no protection for the fuel tank in a rear end impact.

 

Nigel

 

Thats not a bad idea. Theres a lower rail the tank sits on and is secured to, but thats it. Is this the same situation with the lightweight? i.e. nothing between the tank and the outside world but a sheet of ally?? Only ask as the zero uses the lightweight panels and assume the rollbars are the same set up. How is this tackled with the 2b? The tubular chassis went over the tank didn't it?

 

Scott

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