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Suspension Setup Specialist.

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#1 mickpond



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Posted 12 November 2017 - 04:26 PM

My 2B has GAZ shocks all round, double Wishbones at the front and 195/50 X 15 tyres. I've only had it a few weeks and the suspension was rock hard. A visit to Bob Fry led to me contacting Dave at Dampertec. His advice resulted in me finding that the damping was set too high. However, the setup does still not feel right and there is no steering self centring. I am thinking of taking it to a Suspension setup specialist.


I now know that the GAZ have adjusters for ride height and damping but the clamping/fixing points are set so the angle of the unit cannot be changed. So, I can setup ride height and damping by trial and error. I have gear that will check Tracking (Toe in/toe out) so will I gain anything by getting things like Camber checked?


If the consensus is yes then are there any specialists in the South. I have seen Procomp Motorsport and Centre Gravity mentioned on the forum but they are both around Birmingham. There is a place called Analogue Automotive at Petersfield. Does any member have experience of them or any other companies in the South?


As an aside, I'm also thinking of fitting narrower tyres on the front (I realize I will need new rims). Any thoughts on the effects of doing that?





#2 richyb66


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Posted 12 November 2017 - 06:17 PM

What pressures are you running? The self centering isn't brilliant on the 2B.

If you plan on keeping the car, consider getting the 2B wishbone handling kit from GBS. I'm not their biggest fan, but in this case it's money very well spent. Probably the best value spend to improve the handling.
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#3 kevin the chicken

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 06:57 PM

I think self centre is down to castor. Mine is not good on my car and I am minded to have a tinker with it to see if I can improve it.

#4 Bob Tucker

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 07:16 PM

The wheel & tyre sizes you have are very common, & perfectly OK. No need to change anything.

Pressures between 18 & 20 psi.


If you have washers or spacers fitted to the wishbones where they pivot in the brackets fixed to the chassis, 

you can move the washers to the FRONT at the top wishbone, or to the rear at the bottom wishbone or both you can INCREASE castor.

That may help self centreing, but as Kevin says Hoods in general dont do it very well, if at all.


To check camber park the car on a level surface (side to side), Fit two nuts (13 mm upwards) to a long spirit level with tie

wraps so they slide. Place the nuts against the top & bottom of the wheel rim, & measure the distance 

at the TOP to get the level vertical. Anything between 1/16 & 1/4 is about right. but  Its not easily adjustable.

The wheel must lean IN at the top.


It always takes longer to put it right than do it right.

#5 Alantoon


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Posted 12 November 2017 - 07:34 PM

Before you go changing to narrower tyres I would check the front pressures, the age of the tyres ( old or poor quality tyres can make a massive difference),Check and adjust the tracking, check ride heights, all these factors affect the way the car handles. Once you have checked all the basics then look deeper.

#6 florin metal works

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 09:33 PM

Will narrower tyres help with self centring --- IMO yes as the centre of the tread will be nearer the pivot point of steering, wide rims need greater offset to miss the suspension.  


Have I got that wrong?  Florin self centres on her skinny tyres.

#7 mickpond



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Posted 13 November 2017 - 09:20 PM

Hi. Thanks for all the feedback. I'm running tyres at the recommended 18 -20. I'm interested in the Handling Kit. The GBS site lists 2. ET 15 and ET35. More info please on what you get and the difference 15 to 35. Mine has already been converted to Wishbones so will it still be an advantage to me? Still waiting for someone to recommend a place to get setup checked. I will use Bob's method of checking Camber as soon as I can borrow a long Spirit Level.

Cheers. Mick.

#8 Bob Tucker

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Posted 13 November 2017 - 11:32 PM

Post some pics of the suspension.

Do you know what conversion was used?

Was it originally a sliding pillar setup?

It always takes longer to put it right than do it right.

#9 mickpond



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Posted 15 November 2017 - 06:42 PM

I can't post photos. I am not the Builder and neither was the previous owner so don't know history. I have used Bob's quick method of checking Camber and got the following.


Measuring over a distance of 15" (diameter of wheel). Drivers side wheel is leaning OUT, at the top, by 5 mm. Passengers side wheel is leaning IN by 10mm. Bob says both should lean in slightly.


There are several things about the car that lead me to think that the car was built and setup for track use and has not been changed. I have decided to get suspension checked and setup for road use. I have found someone near Cirencester. When it's been done I will report back. Hopefully I will be able to add someone to the clubs "Recommended List".


Thanks for all the interest. Mick.

#10 lotusPaul


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Posted 15 November 2017 - 07:59 PM

I missed this as ive been away for a bit.

Common set ups have tops of wheels leaning in, also the fronts point in a bit.

Suspension setup isnt the black art its been made out to be, especialy with the clubman racer gear available to buy these days.

Its still not as simple as it looks tho, the general idea is to limit camber change as suspension compression occours.
Dial out the bump steer and give a little toe in for self centering.
Your choice of springs can be worked out by knowing sprung and unsprung weights,pick up points dimensions and wheel frequencies.
Or, ask for other opinions if you wish.

Going by what you have put you have some issues that need addressing. Unfortunately i dont know any so called experts in our area. Most only touch tintops these days.