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Sliding Pillar Upgrade Instructions


Guest Jonathan.Ritchie

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Guest Jonathan.Ritchie

Good Morning.

 

I'm really hoping someone can help here.

 

I've just recieved my sliding pillar upgrade kit from GBS. Everything is there appart from any instructions or manuals etc??

 

I'm going to get on the phone to them this morning once they are open but I'm just wondering if anyone on here has any information about the fitting of this kit.

 

I have a 2B and by the looks of things I need to grind off some of the tubing and then weld on some square bracing accross the chassis.

 

I'm just wanting to make sure that I only grind off what is required and that my placement of the square bracing is correct etc.

 

I'd even go for something as bad as the old Robin Hood 'destruction' videos at this point :(

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Guest 2b cruising

I thing the original ones were measured and made by eye alone.

Apparently there are few true angles, just similar ones.

When a friend of mine phoned for instructions he was told the following about fitting a new handling kit for his 2b.

" each car is not a put it together kit. All parts need engineering to fit."

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Guest Jonathan.Ritchie

Sounds about right.. Just got off the phone to GBS and they are sending some photo's through but said there's no definative instructions etc to carry it out.

 

Guess I'll just have to have a good look at the photo's and hope mine looks similar once I've carried it out.

 

Fingers crossed anyway

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For a start have you got hubs ball joints etc? Check top ball joins fit the top wishbones, do NOT force, tap if necc.

 

Remove the front of the side panels cutting vertically behind the entry point of the rear sustention bars.

 

The two lower bars come off both sides.cut up close to chassis, make up some discs and weld in place.

 

The REAR bar going to the headlight plate, Leaving the headlight plate and front bar in situe. Again cover the newly exposed chassis tube end. You will have to shape the rear of the headlight plate, and probably fill weld between the rear of the plate and the newly exposed front bar.

 

Depending on your car, you may have to remove some things in the engine compartment, so the cross members fit across the chassis.

 

Positioning it all is very dependant on your chassis. Lower rear brackets fit approx across the remains of the lower rear tube, these are never in the same place, see below, front lower cross member is positioned from the rear lower bracket, top cross member should be positioned so that, when assembled fully, there is a 6 to 8 degree caster. Rear top bracket relate to top cross member. That does NOT mean the top cross member is 6to 8 degrees in front of the bottom. It is the hub angle that is important.

 

A point to note is that you MUST keep the cross members parrellel with the rear Axel, that means you MUST not use any reference point on the chassis, other than the rear axle, or it will end up crabbing.

 

You will most likely find that the position of the rear lower bracket will have to move a few times, and will most likely fit differently each side relative the the cut lower rear bar. So don't weld anything until the positions are finalised.

 

The rear top brackets hang vertically, important as it effect final camber.

 

The top damper mount fit at the base of the old top front bar, long bit toward headlight plate. Lower damper bracket should be positioned so that when the car is sitting on its suspension at normal ride height, the damper is at approx mid movement. Top and bottom damper mounts should be aligned.

 

Remember also that the front and rear wishbone mount holes need to align, or the wishbones

Won't fit.

 

Weld it all up, paint it, cut and bend the side to fit. Make good anything you had to remove.

 

After all that, even if you are not accurate the handling will be greatly improved, accurate and the difference is amazing.

 

Don't think I have missed much, GBS will probably be able to fill in the gaps, I will try and answer any questions.

 

Hope this all make sense.

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Guest Jonathan.Ritchie

Slow and steady wins the race though Simon.

 

Believe me it will take me a lot longer to digest that information that it did for you to type it :)

 

That's a great help though. That write up along with the photo's i'm 'meant' to be getting from GBS should turn out to be a pretty decent guide.

 

Once I get the photo's and carry out my upgrade I might take more indepth photo's of my upgrade to fill in any more gaps and emphisize some of the points that you have listed and possibly put together an indepth guide for fitting these as there seems to be quite a lack of resources so if I put together all the help I've recieved into 1 file we could maybe pin it to the chassis page in the forum for future help for others??

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Guest Jonathan.Ritchie

I've got the full kit from GBS. 2 front bars one upper which has the cut outs to fit the angle of the chassis as it comes into the nose cone and one lower which seems to fit just about where the steering rack sits and then 4 brackets to be fitted I think 7.5" behind these (haven't measured but going by the photo's from GBS). Grind off both lower extensions for the lower sliding pillar suspension and the rear extension on the top and shape the forward extensions for the headlights.

 

Bracket to be welded to the headlight extension for upper mounting of coilover.

 

You also get lazer cut panels in the kit for fitting once brackets are attached. Seems relatively straigh forward if everything fits as it should.

 

Got a bag full of bits including top and lower ball joints and bushes (not exactly sure where these fit as this there are no relation to these in the pictures from GBS)

 

Your pictures would be great too Marcus just for more refference. I'll drop you a PM with my email adress if thats ok?

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