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Member Since 19 May 2004
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:38 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Which Diff Oil?

19 September 2017 - 08:51 PM

ah ok cool. That's really helpful. Will put that on the shopping list.


I just read on wiki ...


EP additives which contain phosphorus/sulfur compounds are corrosive to yellow metals such as the copper and/or brass used in bushings and synchronizers; the GL-1 class of gear oils does not contain any EP additives and thus finds use in applications which contain parts made of yellow metals.


Which i assume is why you can't use EP in the gearbox but you can use it in the diff, as i am assuming the diff doesn't contain any copper/brass parts.



In Topic: Pinto Power Output.

19 September 2017 - 07:08 PM

I would also guess that having a straight through exhaust would help a bit too, but i could be wrong as there are various other factors such as back pressure to take into consideration and it all starts to get a bit technical especially when you start taking into account 4-1 or 4-2-1 manifolds and primary tube lengths and the like. 


Depends on budget as i am sure Snapperpaul will tell you it ain't cheap once you start pushing the limits.


At the end of the day though i have a 1.6 pinto without much done to it, only a 2ltr cam, 4-1 tubular manifold to straight through exhaust and that still gives me a huge smile and moves pretty well. I was stuck behind a few slow cars today on the way home along the edge of the river wye and it just didn't matter. Sun was creeping out and it was awesome to hear the burble of the engine and get to enjoy the scenery, it's not always about screaming 0-60 times ;)

In Topic: Pinto Power Output.

17 September 2017 - 05:34 PM

depending on how old the pinto is you might benefit from fitting electronic ignition. The old ones would be points. Mine is a later 1991 and had electronic as standard but you can buy an aftermarket setup. Having a fully mappable system would be the best but that costs to have it setup on a RR. 


I'd look for an old independent garage with an old chap still working there as they will no doubt have worked on these in the past. These are old simple engines and a spanner or two will do most jobs.


If the car is ~750kg and 105bhp that is still 140bhp/tonne. Enough to be spritely in a little car. 

In Topic: Been A While, And Encountered A Problem !

17 September 2017 - 05:19 PM

"...and as result you get a Q plate." or a New plate, or an Age related or a Dinner plate  :crazy: DVLA randomly applying rules since 1965.


That isn't actually a standard 2b chassis so depending on how fussy and knowledgeable (who knows someone at dvla might know whats going on) the person is they might pick up on the front suspension, although unlikely i guess. Maybe you could 'find' a reciept from Robin hood in your paperwork ;)


Car is looking nice. I can't quite see from the pics but are the light holders sufficiently rounded? You also might find the front indicators are not far enough apart. Mine were ok like that for SVA but i know some people had problems and had to fit 'extenders'. Might be worth just checking the measurements if you haven't already.


That's a nice looking rear end. Is that steel under there with the gaps filled or is it all glass fibred?

In Topic: 2B For Sale

13 September 2017 - 07:21 PM

surely as others have said it is worth just taking the engine/box out and selling the rest as a rolling chassis ready for a new engine/box. Being already street legal must be a bonus (what is iva these days ..£500?). Surely you would get £1500 at least wouldn't you? selling the parts separately is unlikely to get near that (unless you have some serious kit in there - which you might have so apologies if you do). Be a shame for it to be binned if it's a good chassis (is it stainless?)


just a thought