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First Shakedown Run In The Zero


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#1 Jazzym

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 09:13 PM

Took the Zero out for it's first run today, and wow is it nippy :-)

I must say I had a few issues though. Firstly the engine is running very hot at 100-110 degrees and the fan is constantly on. However I did notice some popping and rough running on decelleration so this could in part be down to timing. The car has yet to visit a rolling road. Secondly the adjustable suspension seems very crashy over our far from perfect road surfaces. Does anyone know how to adjust the ride height of the gaz shocks?  And thirdly the flat bottomed steering wheel isn't centralised. Do I alter this myself or should I take the car and get it tracked even though it doesn't pull left or right?

Any advice welcome.

Apart from these small issues I really enjoyed the drive and can't wait for Barkstone.

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#2 woolly

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 09:24 PM

please you enjoyed you hard work.
bike carbs will pop a bit on over run, but do get the carbs set up as soon as pos in case to lean.

#3 Jazzym

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 09:31 PM

The carbs were set up perfectly when the engine was in my previous hood.  However the manifold is now a much freer flowing one, is this likely to alter the timing and carb setup enough to make the engine run hot. Also I noticed water coming out of the rad overflow, so I'm thinking of fitting a bottle.

As soon as funds allow I'm going to book the car in with Russ at Torque Tune as he is only about 25 miles from me.

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#4 Bob Tucker

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 12:12 AM

To adjust the ride height of GAZ shocks you will need a C spanner. There is a big ring at the bottom of the spring which is adjustable up & down the shock centre, probably locked by an allen key grub screw.
To adjust the shock bump & rebound, there is a small knob at the bottom of the shock. Unscrew to reduce damping, screw in to increase it. Try 2 clicks at a time to start then fine tune by one.
It always takes longer to put it right than do it right

http://pic7.piczo.co...g=13945587&cr=7

#5 Jazzym

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 12:24 AM

I know this probably sounds silly to those in the know, but do I use the c-spanner to turn the spring base upwards to reduce ride height and down to increase ride height or vice versa?

Also with regards to damping, if my suspension is bottoming out over bumps as it seems to be, do I need to increase or reduce the damping and rebound?

Jason

P.s. Sorry if this is in the wrong forum area.
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#6 mower man

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 08:27 AM

Hi,to raise ride hieght,wind the spring base up this will increase ground clearance and stiffen springing a little. Unless you have spent a lot of money on shocks you will only be able to adjust bump damping as normal shocks are single action ,double action ones are usually approx twice the price and adjusting them is quite complex .How many clicks of adj have you got ,a guess with Gaz kit would be 28 ,I would set them at around 8 from fullout [soft ] set your ride hieght to give 4to 4.5 " under the sump and have a GENTLE test ride over a known route of good roads [I know that can be diff to find] at sensible speeds to get a feel of what the car is doing stop somewhere safe and adj 1 or 2 clicks stiffer [screw in] and repeat your ruh at the same sort of speeds cotinue this until you are happy with the handling and you have it sorted NOTE you may !have to go softer to get it correct! and record ALL settings . Get in touch and may be we can meet up I only live in Worksop   Regards   mower man [ mick] :good:
MOWER MAN                                                                                                                                                                                      the older I get the faster I  was ! but getting faster after having my knees refurbished

#7 Jazzym

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 10:35 AM

Cheers for the advice Mick, I will set the ride height as advised and the turn the damping in 8 clicks from fully out. A meet would be good but got to get it rolling roaded first in case it's running too lean what with the high engine temperature.

Thanks for the advice.

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#8 Jazzym

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Posted 12 April 2011 - 05:38 PM

Just counted the adjustment clicks on the damping control of my Gaz shocks and there are 44 adjustment clicks.  The fronts were set on 9 clicks each and the rears were wound fully out. I have now set front and back to 10 clicks in from fully out. Does this sound about right for a starting point?  Also the ride height is about 5 1/2" front and 6" rear. This seems a little high to me, however we have lots of nice high square speed humps where I live so would be impossible to get over them if the car was any lower.

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#9 Jazzym

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Posted 12 April 2011 - 05:38 PM

Just counted the adjustment clicks on the damping control of my Gaz shocks and there are 44 adjustment clicks.  The fronts were set on 9 clicks each and the rears were wound fully out. I have now set front and back to 10 clicks in from fully out. Does this sound about right for a starting point?  Also the ride height is about 5 1/2" front and 6" rear. This seems a little high to me, however we have lots of nice high square speed humps where I live so would be impossible to get over them if the car was any lower.

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#10 mower man

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Posted 12 April 2011 - 06:14 PM

It sounds a bit high may be trim half an inch off , so long as you know where the shocks are set you are in business ,a number of test runs and you will be good don't forget to log your settings ! ,the back ones on full soft were probably the culprit ,what size wheel/tyre set up and what pressures?  ,let me know how you go   regards mower man [mick] :good:
MOWER MAN                                                                                                                                                                                      the older I get the faster I  was ! but getting faster after having my knees refurbished

#11 Jazzym

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 07:55 AM

Hi Mick,

The Tyres are the standard Yokohama ones that come in the zero kit and from memory they are 205x50x15.  As for pressures I need to double check, but I usually run at about 20psi. Is this sufficient for a lightweight car such as the zero?

Regards,

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#12 mower man

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 08:05 AM

I run 205x50 x15 's and spent agood few hrs play ing with pressures as low as 14 psi and as high as 22psi finally setling on18 psi cold so you are inthe right area HTH mick [mower man] :good:
MOWER MAN                                                                                                                                                                                      the older I get the faster I  was ! but getting faster after having my knees refurbished

#13 Jazzym

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 10:47 AM

Great, thanks Mick. I think I'll lower about half an inch all round and then take her out for a few runs to set the damping. Now, where's that C-spanner gone lol.

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#14 CMA

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 11:29 AM

On Gaz shocks you probably want about 10-15 clicks on the front and 17-22 clicks on the rear.

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#15 Jazzym

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 01:45 PM

Mmm, so the rear should be stiffer than the front then? Is it a wise move to start with 10 clicks on the front and 14-15 on the rear?

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.




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