Jump to content


- - - - -

Fitting Bestek Ignition System

Not even firing

  • Please log in to reply
28 replies to this topic

#1 Jazzym

Jazzym

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 473 posts
  • Location:Rotherham South Yorkshire
  • Car type:Zero - 2.1 pinto, bike carbs, fast road cam etc.....

Posted 01 January 2012 - 04:18 PM

Hello and firstly a happy new year to everyone :D

Secondly I'm hoping you guys can give me some advice regarding the fitting of my new Bestek dizzy, coil and amp.

I removed the old distributor and carefully marked the position so the new bestek one could be fitted in exactly the same position, which I did.  Now here's where I think I have committed a school boy error, should I have turned the crank so that piston number 1 is at top dead centre indicated by a mark inside the dizzy and the rotor arm (hope that makes sense), and if so why would this matter on the old dizzy when I'm fitting a new modified one.

I have checked that all the other wiring is correct (i.e. coil to bestek amplifier, amplifier to dizzy) and that the earth is good.  I even took the opportunity to fit new HT leads at the same time.  Talking about HT leads although I'm certain these are the same as when they came off the old dizzy, does any one know how I can check this?

I thought these Bestek systems were plug and play because they are simply a higher powered replacement for my standard electronic set up, so I have obviously committed some school boy error somewhere.

When I crank it over the engine doesn't even attempt to fire :sorry:

All suggestions are very welcome as I plan to sort this tomorrow.

Best regards,

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#2 knights_templar

knights_templar

    Wheely good builder!

  • Community user
  • 538 posts
  • Car type:zero

Posted 01 January 2012 - 04:52 PM

yes you have made the error, hope this is the simplest explanation to sort.

find engine timing mark on front pulley and align with timing mark (TDC) on case.

that will get No 1 AND No 4 pistons to their highest point, but you need to find out which one is on its compression stroke.

think the easiest way would be to remove cam cover and look at the cam, if cam lobs for No1 are facing upward (away from the cam) its on TDC firing, if not turn the engine 360 until the timing marks align again.

you can now remove the distributer and fit it back in so that when fully home the rotor points to the afore mentioned mark, that should now be firing No 1.

this should get you started (put the cam cover on first, or you will get covered in oil)

timing should now be set accurately with timing light

have fun let us know how it goes

#3 Jazzym

Jazzym

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 473 posts
  • Location:Rotherham South Yorkshire
  • Car type:Zero - 2.1 pinto, bike carbs, fast road cam etc.....

Posted 01 January 2012 - 05:10 PM

I have never set timing with a timing light is this an easy task?

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#4 CMA

CMA

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 2,179 posts
  • Location:Chesterfield, Derbyshire
  • Car type:SSC Stylus

Posted 01 January 2012 - 05:30 PM

Jason,

Just for info the South Yorkshire'ish mob have a group Timing light you are welcome to borrow, currently in my possesion, let me know and I can bring it up on Weds if you want it.

Posted Image


#5 Jazzym

Jazzym

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 473 posts
  • Location:Rotherham South Yorkshire
  • Car type:Zero - 2.1 pinto, bike carbs, fast road cam etc.....

Posted 01 January 2012 - 05:56 PM

Cheers Rob that would be great. I have seen others use them but never actually used one myself, is it easy?

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#6 DanE

DanE

    Club Secretary

  • Committee
  • 3,575 posts
  • Location:Alfreton derbyshire
  • Car type:406 3.0L v6 coupe & looking for a kit

Posted 01 January 2012 - 07:20 PM

Dead easy to set timing will talk ya through it weds
Robinhood 2B+ Done, Westfield V8 Done, mev atomic done, 406 3.0l v6 coupe redoing (winter kit)

Unofficial beer supplier stoneleigh 2012 / 13

#7 Jazzym

Jazzym

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 473 posts
  • Location:Rotherham South Yorkshire
  • Car type:Zero - 2.1 pinto, bike carbs, fast road cam etc.....

Posted 01 January 2012 - 07:34 PM

Excellent, cheers Dan much appreciated.

Rob, that would be excellent if I could borrow the timing light on Wednesday.

regards,

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#8 Jazzym

Jazzym

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 473 posts
  • Location:Rotherham South Yorkshire
  • Car type:Zero - 2.1 pinto, bike carbs, fast road cam etc.....

Posted 01 January 2012 - 09:00 PM

Can I just ask another daft question?

My Bestek box of tricks has been programmed to provide 15 degrees advance at tick over and 34 degrees maximum.  Does that mean I should set the dizzy timing using the timing light at 15 degrees btdc while the engine is ticking over?

Thanks in advance,

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#9 Jazzym

Jazzym

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 473 posts
  • Location:Rotherham South Yorkshire
  • Car type:Zero - 2.1 pinto, bike carbs, fast road cam etc.....

Posted 02 January 2012 - 10:52 AM

Right chaps, I've done everything as per knights templar's post above, but still no joy, not even a spark. I know the firing order is 1 3 4 2 but I think I may have got the HT leads connected wrongly. I have taken a couple of pics but can't post them from my phone. Basically in clockwise from top right post on the dizzy cap (nearest the block) my leads are connected 1, 3, 4, 2 with cylinder two being the top left post, is this correct?  Any help with getting them the correct way around is greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Jason

Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#10 Jazzym

Jazzym

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 473 posts
  • Location:Rotherham South Yorkshire
  • Car type:Zero - 2.1 pinto, bike carbs, fast road cam etc.....

Posted 02 January 2012 - 10:56 AM

Also can I add that I made sure the rotor arm lines up with the timing mark on the dizzy body. This just happens to be just before the lead for cylinder one, is this correct?

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#11 Grim

Grim

    What do you mean by 'wash'?

  • Moderators
  • 3,023 posts
  • Location:Sheffield
  • Car type:Fully stainless / green 2b, standard 2l pinto, self dismantling

Posted 02 January 2012 - 11:10 AM

get someone to crank the engine whilst you rotate the dizzy a little bit, that should get you close enough to get it running well enough to time it (but don't drive it til it is!)
Posted Image

#12 mower man

mower man

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 2,148 posts
  • Location:worksop
  • Car type:s7 111 ? 2.1 pinto

Posted 02 January 2012 - 11:19 AM

Where are you in Rotherham ?could get over this week for a look and a tweek if you like I'm only in Worksop  .P.M. me if you want a hand [I have a timing light ]   mower man  
MOWER MAN                                                                                                                                                                                      the older I get the faster I  was ! but getting faster after having my knees refurbished

#13 Jazzym

Jazzym

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 473 posts
  • Location:Rotherham South Yorkshire
  • Car type:Zero - 2.1 pinto, bike carbs, fast road cam etc.....

Posted 02 January 2012 - 11:59 AM

Tried turning dizzy while cranking over and still no joy. So either I've got my leads connected wrongly or a connection wrong.

The bestek system has two plugs, one to dizzy and one to coil, and the can only be connected one way. The only other connections to the coil are one for the rev counter. These were fitted to the existing coil which worked perfectly. Now the small racing battery is flat, doh!!!!

Mower man thanks for the offer but I am working the rest of this week and my garage has no power as it is a lockup, so would be fumbling in the dark.

Any more suggestions?

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#14 Jazzym

Jazzym

    Wheely good builder!

  • Full Member
  • 473 posts
  • Location:Rotherham South Yorkshire
  • Car type:Zero - 2.1 pinto, bike carbs, fast road cam etc.....

Posted 02 January 2012 - 12:21 PM

In the Haynes manual their photo of the Bosch dizzy shows they have number one cylinder furthest away from the block (directly opposite to mine) it on page 15-6.

Does this matter so long as the rotor arm is lined up with the timing mark?

Jason
Zero with 2.1 pinto, 205 block, re-ground balanced crank, all new bearings, pistons, big valves, high pressure oil pump, lightened & balanced flywheel etc..., big valve ported cylinder head, piper 270 cam, Kawasaki ZX9R carbs on Bogg Brothers manifold, Manifolds blueprinted and matched to cylinder head, engine built by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield, 138bhp at back wheels.

#15 knights_templar

knights_templar

    Wheely good builder!

  • Community user
  • 538 posts
  • Car type:zero

Posted 02 January 2012 - 06:27 PM

 Jazzym, on 02 January 2012 - 10:56 AM, said:

Also can I add that I made sure the rotor arm lines up with the timing mark on the dizzy body. This just happens to be just before the lead for cylinder one, is this correct?

Jason

thats right, rotor goes clockwise, so leads go to plugs in firing order, 1-3-4-2,

if you are still getting nothing, you better check the dizzy wiring, you mention the wire from coil to dizzy and mention the only other wire is to the tacho, how does it get its feed?

standard system is ignition to + on coil, - on coil to dizzy, tachometer wire on -, coil is switched off and on by contacts (switch) in the distributer.

electronic ignition just replaces the mechanical switch, (I know the Bestek does other things), but will need its own ignition live.

Bestek site gives no detail of wiring, so just a thought, have you a live to the coil still? and one to the dizzy?




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users