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You are right I checked this and the seal needed to go in slightly further and the flange now turns freely. Unfortunately there is still a slight leak but it is coming through the nut and the thread. I think it can stay not bad enough to worry about for now.

Yes it turns when the nut is loose.

I have done some more digging around, and believe I can now answer my own question, which has been raised in other Ford related forums. The type of spline bit needed is XZN "Tripple Square", the profile being three squares overlayed to form 12 corners of 90 degrees equaly spaced around the circle. At least this is what I am going to buy, I will be after an 8 mm bit of this type. A hex key might work but it wouldn't have 90 degree faces, a square drive would probably be a better fit. I'll update this when I get hold of the XZN to try.

I have changed a pinto cam belt, but not for a while. I know I have the splined bit that fits the tensioner spring bolt somewhere, BUT where did I put it! ... So many spiders are now homeless in my attempts to locate that strip of 4 or 5 splined sockets/bits....... so I need to buy some more ..... but now I look on-line and am amazed by the number of different splined sockets/bits available, I don't mean different makers, I mean different standards. The one the block that I have looks like it has 12 points, then I see 3 different standards of 12 point splines (at least) depending on the angle between the teeth. I did find a set of bits handed down from my father, but when I tried the one that looked the right diameter it started to go in but was obviouly the wrong tooth angle because it started to make grooves on the sides of the bolt teeth. I searched our extensive database and found the link below, however apart from telling me that a hex key might be ok, there is no definitive information abount exactly the type of splined bit needed. Does anyone here know the details ? https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/25924-cam-tensioner/

I did this last autumn without this problem, following the manual as you have. Perhaps the seal has not gone into the housing all the way, and might be wedged out so that it is fouling the inside surface of the flange ?, or might have been proud and has now been pressed in by the flange and just needs to be tapped in a bit further.

It's surprising how little resistance it needs to stop it turning, once had a column where 2 pieces of plastic had closed together, just them rubbing on each other stopped mine returning

Thanks for the suggestions, much appreciated. I'll have a look at each to see if I can spot anything obvious

Can you turn the pinion shaft with the flange when the nut is loose?

I was thinking when you said you did some work on the column that if you had moved any parts of the column causing the knuckles to bind. To check if any parts of the column are causing your plight you could jack up the front with both front wheels off the ground and the bonnet removed, move one wheel from left to right and glance in at the column to see if any of the knuckles are causing the problem. HTH

https://www.google.com/maps/@52.0835888,-2.3135676,128m/data=!3m1!1e3!5m1!1e1?entry=ttu Taken at last years show. Who can identify thier car?

Are you sure there is nothing binding, either in the column, in the rack or within the hubs?

Never heard of them asking for an engineers report, but when I have done it in the past I have had to get a garage to confirm that the engine is physically fitted in the vehiclle & confirm the capacity being claimed.

Hi, I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction as to what I am doing wrong. My sierra standard diff was leaking through the pinion oil seal so I have changed it. Whilst putting it back together I tried to torque the nut up to 100nm as in the manual but it locks the diff even before I reach the required torque setting and the pinion flange won’t turn. The wheel hubs still turn but not the pinion flange. Any help with this is appreciated.

Get the wheel alignment done - I had zero re-centering before I had mine done and only just squeezed through IVA due to a very kind tester. Not dangerous really, just ruins your tyres quicker. Unfortunately, most normal alignment places won't be able to do a kit because their equipment won't fit under the wheelarches. I had a mate with one of those home laser alignment tools - did mine in a pub car park one evening

Hi everyone, Took my 2B out for a short run and noticed that the steering wheel isn't returning to the centre position after turning (left or right). I've been fixing it over time and haven't done many miles at all although this is a new behaviour, it wasn't doing it before. First instinct is that this is dangerous and needs to go to a garage but thought I'd ask here first if there is something obvious to look at. It has a removable steering wheel and the steering shaft has been refurbished. Any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

in some cases in the past the DVLA has asked for an engineers report to confirm the new details. Not always, as usual the DVLA are inconsistent.

Started fitting new blue silicone pipe and noticed that hose for the expansion tank hose is pretty warm on a knackered so I replaced that as well you can see the compare below. Also fitted now expansion tank this one is from a volvo. so the coolant system topped up ready for this year driving just got to sort all brakes out now they all fitted up just waiting on a new fitting as thread in this one is no good. Hopefully come in day or so. New braid lines all fit and work. Took doors for easy access while clean up and remove seats and harness next to clean up cockpit. next is oil and filter change with new gaskets over weekend clean air filter and engine bay. slowly getting there now also had a little helper with me. His name is fidget

Yes, I did think that was possible but I wasn't sure...

Re Nelmo's comment above on engine emissions for MOT purposes. You have the advantage of a Q plate which means the emissions test is a visual only. As long a it's not smoking excessively you will be ok.

Thats great news thanks.

No, if the V5 looks OK, no need for an IVA (SVA is the old system that IVA replaced). Only needs a new IVA if you change the chassis/body in some way - changing the engine is fine but you need to tell the DVLA because it may affect what emissions you need to be tested for at MOT time. Engine number is irrelevant these days - mine is blank because my engine was brand new from the warehouse and they don't stamp codes on them until they get to the factory.

Hi - I have a Q registered kit car that has been off the road for 30 years. The log book is correct and states - Robin Hood as the manufacturer. I'm looking at getting it back on the road - do I need to put it through an IVA or SVA or is it ok as is and just need to get it MOT prepped? Follow up question - the engine has been swapped out since the Q plate was issued, it states 1600cc and its an 1800cc fitted. Do I need to swap back to a 1600 or can I update the log book with the new engine....and final one, if it needs to be swapped back (MX5 engine) to the 1600 does it matter that the enine number has changed. Apologies for the flurry of questions. Thanks in advance.

All being well I am happy to lead down the A49 again. Meeting at the Cat & Lion pub just north of junction 10 M56. Time to be arranged. I will probably camp over.

Hi Darrell, I'll be there, all being well. Probably only be able to make it for one day myself - Saturday is favourite at the moment. I'm guessing you'll be coming past me (from a global point of view) so I might tag along with you if we're going on the same day. Steve

Evening All, I have a spare ticket going for kit fest at Santa pod this weekend. It’s for Saturday & Sunday. £20 any takers? First come first served. give me a bell on 07887732307.